No way enough information. Who is designing this/ It's a remodel, a new build ,...what?

There no dimensions to anything, no 2 dimension plan WITH the dimensions.....

What is around the kitchen where do you enter and exit?

" We're at the stage of cabinets" and can or can NOT change anything?!

Refrigerators, have cabinets above as part of cabinet housing, .....No you don't put I "need it every day" items up there. But you also don't want an un housed fridge, with bread and doo dads pile atop. : (

You have nearly no drawers and far too many DOOR base lower cabinets as well which is quite inconvenient and if they are pullout behind, simply uses up inches of storage, requires two motions to access.

You need to show us the flat on paper plan, feet, inches, of everything, and what surrounds the kitchen.... noted as well

you can use a caseta switch for the light switch, just install on side of cabinet… easy done… more details will entice more enhanced suggestions

Yes people leave one wall with no uppers all the time. Especially a window wall. The larger question is do you NEED the storage??? I love it when people suggest changing window sizes as if dealing with an outside wall is the same as hanging a cabinet or not!! The pantry is a must so move the switch. It will be well worth having the pantry. Jan's comment on refridgerator uppers is a hoot. Two things can be true. I have a cabient circa 1970s over my refridgerator and DH still manages to pile is STUFF on top of the fridge. For him it's eye level and he seems to think no one else can see his compulsion to fill all flat surfaces!!! hahahahaha

Here are dim of room

new build open floor plan

Seriously? It's a free site for help, There IS no "pantry" on this plan

What does the rest of the "open concept" look like on this floor?

There is one its off the kitchen

Kitchen, living room

It’s best to post the whole floor plan that has all dimensions for this room/adjacent areas. For instance, I see the potential ability to grow the cabinetry to the left of the sink in order to move the refrigerator there. (I don’t like plans such as yours that have the range between the sink and fridge. It looks like it may be too late to suggest a prep sink in the island in order to correct the appliance locations)…however, you might have a dining area planned to the left of the sink? Again, need the dimensioned floor plan.

Your fridge sides are going to hang out so far out of that standard depth surround. You need a deeper fridge surround, and upper cabinet, to cover the sides and top of the fridges sold today.

Deeper side panels and upper cabinet.

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This is what you are getting based on the drawings ...

See the gray unfinished side of the fridge hanging out? In your kitchen you will see that from the kitchen and dining area.

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you'll have to know what is possible as far as adjusting this plan. That is something between you and the build/design team..is there a design team ? ..do you have the option of upgrades or ??? what exactly. If there 's only a basic builder kitchen many people live with it and make changes a few years later. If you have "upgrades" for more dollars now , it can be worth it....what are the options? My parents had a kitchen "allowance" and were sent to an independent kitchen design shop who worked w the builder ..so they had choices withn a budget . Contracters set things up in a few different ways.

"Not liking the uppers around the window or the upper corner cabinet. Will it look funny with minimal uppers?"

No. It will look better with no uppers on the window wall IMO.

Is it too late to do a bigger window in the kitchen?

My pet peeve ... kitchens with short dinky windows that could have been taller or bigger overall.

Yes ununfortunately

I would skip the cabinets on the sink wall and make the window bigger. And yes, take the rest up to the ceiling.

No need for upper cupboards on the sink wall.
Too bad stove is between fridge and sink.Suboptimal ergonomics as you have to stretch past the stove to make room to prep items closer to the sink. Best configuration is Fridge,then sink ,then stove.Think about how you prepare meals...take stuff from fridge and pantry,move items to sink area,use the ideally ample counter space to prep for cooking. The sink is the workhorse of the kitchen,and easy access now will pay off immediately and later when/if you have mobility issues.
Have the lower cupboards mostly drawers...it is so time consuming,painful and frustrating to have to bend down trying to reach in and pull out canned goods ,pots,pans etc.Decrepitude sneaks up on you faster than you think! So undignified to have to use your cane to grope and fish out that can of diced tomatoes.

Unless these are stock sizes, I would fit them closer to the window. Our old ones were right up to the window with a bridge over the top that I’d had removed years ago. When we replaced the cabinets I gave the window a bit more room, but only about a handwidth on each side. Putting a light over the sink remedies that awkward gap you’re sensing in the rendering. Plus remember you have a ceiling. The renderings give you that flyover view that isn’t there in real life, unless your room has a hight vault.

If you actually took the time and made your own sketch of your kitchen space (including dimensions for all walls/windows/doors/doorways) you would receive a lot of great (free) advice.

HOWEVER, you have to be willing to provide the actual dimensions - of everything. It takes a little time on your part if you have to go over there and actually measure everything - but it's not difficult (buy a cheap laser tape measure off of amazon for $25).

OR - ask your builder to provide you with one. But it has to have all of the dimensions - not just a dimension for each wall.

You have (or at least had) the attention of the "Kitchen Queen of Design" - Jan Moyer. If you provide her with the info she needs, you will receive input from a pro kitchen designer (plus other pro designers + very knowledgeable non pros).

You are missing a great opportunity by not doing this.

First off, your layouts do not match. For example, the picture in your first post does not have a diagonal upper corner cabinet but the second layout does. The overall cabinet layout also differs b/w the two.

VS

FYI - a 36" deep island is not deep enough for standard 24" deep cabinets + seating overhang. This is what you really need if you want comfortable seating at the island (i.e., people won't have to sit sideways or "straddle" the island or have to lean far forward to be able to use the counter when sitting there).

1.5" counter overhang on front of island

+ 24"D base cabinets

+ 1" decorative door or finished end panel on the backs of the cabinets

+ 15" of clear leg/knee space for the seating overhang

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41.5" depth

If eliminate the decorative door or finished end panel, then 40.5"

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What we need is the actual measurements of the space and legibly labeled so we aren't trying to decipher what's on the layout or squinting to try and make out what it says.

Both the layout AND sketch should have legible measurements & labels (measurements, room labels, door labels, etc.). Legible means large enough and dark enough to read. More information about measurements and labels are in the thread below.

The following thread describes what we need from you to allow us to give you helpful/meaningful advice.

New to Kitchens? Read Me First!: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5972404/new-to-kitchens-read-me-first-2020-interim

No upper on the sink wall and that means no corner cabinet there. My question is what can you change ? All those base cabinets should be drawers and BTW I have no issue with a 12" over hang for island seating I am tall and do not have need to sit sideways . The over fridge cabinet is like a finish to the space and oftem a great place for those platters that you use rarely and never fit anywhere. The fridge and sink layout are not great for sure . But we need to know what can be changed a this stage.