Any knowledgeable contractors or professionals out there?

29 days ago

We are dealing with ongoing leaks after a bathroom remodel and would appreciate input from anyone experienced with wet rooms, waterproofing systems, or tile installations.
The project involved converting an existing bathroom into a wet room with dual showers on one side and a tub on the other. The floor was rebuilt with new plywood, a rubber waterproof membrane, wood shims to create slope toward the drain, wire mesh, several inches of concrete, and then tile.
A major issue was discovered when it was found that the waterproof membrane was never extended over the threshold area. This resulted in significant leaking along the seam between the old and new plywood. Although repairs were attempted, leaking continues, particularly around the area beneath a 6-inch half wall that appears not to have been fully repaired.
The tub was removed twice during troubleshooting. Initially, a drain issue was suspected, but the plumber now believes the problem is not plumbing-related. Water continues to migrate through the concrete and leak into the ceiling below. The concrete bed remains saturated with normal shower use, and ceiling staining and active leaks continue.
The floor was never flood tested before tile installation. We are also unsure whether:
● The waterproof membrane was properly connected to the drain assembly.
● The drain’s weep holes are clear and functioning.
● The membrane itself was damaged or improperly installed.
● Water is bypassing the waterproofing system somewhere beneath the tile.
The contractor has performed numerous patch repairs before addressing the root cause and has suggested problems with existing systems, although all drains in the remodeled area were newly installed by them.
The proposed solution is now to remove all tile and rebuild the floor. Before we spend money on another installation, what inspections, tests, or verification steps should we insist on? For example, should a flood test be performed before any tile is installed? Are there other critical waterproofing checks that should be documented before the floor is closed up again?
We want to make sure every reasonable step is taken so this bathroom is rebuilt correctly and we don’t end up with the same problem after reinstalling the tile.

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Comments (8)

just_janni
29 days ago
last modified: 29 days ago
You should provide pictures of the completed project so we can visualize and preferably some pictures of the "during".
millworkman
29 days ago
" For example, should a flood test be performed before any tile is installed? "

At this point, yes, but only to hopefully show you where the mess is leaking. And I would have someone else do the floord test. IF a flood test can even be propely accomplished at this point. The system you descibe to me sounds like a hot mess express so plan on the rip out and redo by a different contractor.
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PRO
Minardi
28 days ago
There is ZERO TCNA approved method for doing any of that with a rubber pan membrane. The entire thing is constructed incorrectly. The entire thing needs to be redone by someone familiar with the TCNA, who owns a ratty handbook, and who can answer what waterproofing system they use, in depth.

https://tcnatile.com/product-category/publications/

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer
3onthetree
26 days ago
"floor was rebuilt with new plywood"

"several inches of concrete"

"and a tub"

"leak into the ceiling below"

Didn't state if zero entry, if large format tile, or stone. But, apparently wood frame construction, 2nd floor. So back up a bit - check joist framing for deflection as well. You will want to be between L/480-L/720, with whatever "several" is and a tub within the waterproofing I'd want to be L/720.
Sue 430
25 days ago
Im not any kind of expert, but didnt you have to have city inspections for this? when we did ours, it was insoected multiple times along the way. the contractor had to do a flood test with the inspector there before he tiled.
Lake Affect
25 days ago
I’m not a contractor, but we have a wetroom in our upstairs bathroom; shower, sink, toilet only, no tub and the only drain is in the 8’ x 6’ open (no curb) shower. We also have a small bathroom/wetroom, with sink, toilet and corner shower with curtain in one 7’ x 9’ room with tile on all surfaces and a drain in the middle of the room. When we built the house 25 years ago we had a tile contractor who was experienced in wet rooms and they did a ”full mud job” (I have no idea if that is a term widely in use, but its in used in our area), and it was neither quick nor inexpensive, but we had zero issues. Our upstairs bath has 4” honed marble on floors, walls and ceiling in the shower area (rest of bath ceiling is wood) and the downstairs has 2” square on the floor and 7” x 9” (ish) rectangular tile on the walls and ceiling, all with cement backerboard on all surfaces and sloped floors to the drain, which I’m told is a hallmark of a full mud job. Not sure this info will help, but figured I’d chime in, because I know there are lots of folks who don’t like wetrooms, and we love ours, but I know there are installation challenges.

WRT the inspection issue, we are in the rural northeast and there are no inspections or flood tests such as described by other posters, so not every municipality has such requirements, but I can see the benefit of same.

Good luck with the fix, and sorry you’re going through such a headache.
coastal_vibe
17 days ago
I'm not a professional contractor, but I took on the role of owner-builder for my (in progress) bathroom remodel. I pulled the permit from the City before starting the project and had all the required City inspections approved during the rough-in phase.

I am in Southern California, where typically the shower pan is waterproofed with a hotmop process (tar&paper). I had a flood test inspection done after the hotmop dried. For this test, I purchased a special inflatable bladder-type plug to cover the drain body and I carried buckets of water into the shower pan for the flood test. (I needed to purchase a new bicycle pump to inflate the plug.)

Water needs to stay there for about 24 hours to check for any sign of leaking.

Photo below shows my shower ready for a flood test. The drain body is that orange circle in the corner (left-hand bottom corner) of the shower pan. This is a 2nd floor bathroom with a plywood subfloor. This inspection was required after rough plumbing and rough electrical but before insulation, drywall, waterproofing the shower walls, tile-setting, or any finish work.

I have a curbed shower; this test can be done on a curbless shower by adding a temporary curb to contain about two inches of water in the shower compartment. OTOH, I was told that if I went curbless, almost the entire bathroom floor would need to be waterproofed.
chispa
16 days ago
I think only CA still does mop & tar!

I remodeled 4 bathrooms with that method when we lived there. No leaks.