As shown in the Trim Usage section of the Daltile Color Wheel Sales Sheet, I would think you would use one of these:

• 3x6 Wall Tile around the window and on the wall + Jolly S1/212J on the edge
• 3x6 Wall Tile around the window and on the wall + Quarter Round AC106 on the edge
• 3x6 Wall tile on the wall + Surface Bullnose S4369MOD around the window (bullnose on the 6" side where it meets the Wall Tile)

Thanks!

I think I would do the 3rd one (surface bullnose around window), as I want to keep it simple. And I guess I misunderstood what radius bullnose tile is for.

I was hoping to order the tiles from Lowes or HD but they don't carry the 3x6 bullnose. Sigh.

Ferguson Home sells Daltile Color Wheel tiles.

I saw that in pictures and thought it was an aesthetic choice, but it's not, is it? It's to keep the surface more waterproof? How fast can a countertop place fabricate these small pieces? I'm in the Chicago area so I have a lot of options if I decide to do this.

" How fast can a countertop place fabricate these small pieces "

Are you buying anything else from a fabricator? You would need to ask as their schedule would dictate, but you throw a few bucks their way and they make take a remnant and cut pieces for you quicker.

I assume that the solid surface material surrounding the window would be cut deep enough to allow the wall tile to butt up against it (leaving a narrow gap for caulk), eliminating the need for bullnose tile trim, correct?

*I assume that the solid surface material surrounding the window would be cut deep enough to allow the wall tile to butt up against it (leaving a narrow gap for caulk), eliminating the need for bullnose tile trim, correct?*

Yes, I think so.

*Are you buying anything else from a fabricator? You would need to ask as their schedule would dictate, but you throw a few bucks their way and they make take a remnant and cut pieces for you quicker*

I'm not, but maybe they would have remnants from other jobs? I guess I can just call around and ask.

You should obtain a wall tile sample and then match (or deliberately mis-match) the tile color to the solid surface material. Home Depot has samples of solid surface products from Corian, LG, and Wilsonart, among others.

I'm going to call countertop places today and have a couple questions for y'all.

Is solid surface easy to install? So if I go this route, my contractor won't kill me when he gets back from vacation and starts on my bathroom?

If I can't do solid surface, would it look weird to use something like two trimmed 3x24 bullnose tiles in the 33” sill, so that at least there is only one grout line? Would that help with waterproofing?

And while I'm thinking about it, would you use white caulk or a warm gray (matching Mapei) for changes in plane? My current glass tile has white grout/caulk, so I never had to think about this before.


Thank you so much!

"would it look weird to use something like two trimmed 3x24 bullnose tiles in the 33” sill"

So you have found a tile other than Daltile Color Wheel that offers the Wall Tile in your preferred style, shape, and color; and 3x24 trim?

Not yet, all I know is they do a bullnose 3x24 piece, I was running out the door when I shared that (I have so many balls in the air right now, ugh). I need to hunt down the specifics. But one thing going for me is that it doesn't have to be the exact same white (whether it's tile or solid surface) b/c it will be on a different plane so the color is going to look different anyway. And I am open to a warm light blue as well. The walls will be a warm light blue and the vanity is a slighly warm deep blue. In fact I originally looked into tiling the sill in blue but I didn't look very hard and decided to stick with white for the sake of simplicity.

My kitchen counters are white Corian (recommended by the people in the Kitchens forum) and it matches well enough with that. I'm sure I have the exact color name in my emails somewhere. That was put in in 2018 and it was a popular white so I imagine they still make it.

Welp, none of the longer Daltile bullnose tiles comes in the right white (or blue). It's funny how you can search on their site for white and stuff comes up that is definitely gray or beige.

So that leaves me with:

*finding solid surface that is available, the right white or blue, and is affordable

or

*just doing the Daltile bullnose pieces

If the contractor does the sealing correctly, how big of a problem is it to just use the bullnose tile for the sill and niches? The two niches currently measure 6x8 and will probably stay about the same.

You could go with Marazzi Hawthorne Refined White 4x12 Flat* Wall Tile or 4x12 Beveled Wall Tile + 12 x 1/2 Jolly on the edge.

-----

*for the window and niche

Edit 2 - Joyous news! There is a countertop place near me that has plenty of remnants of Corian Glacier White and could make these pieces for me for around $150. After striking out on a few calls, this is amazing.

Assuming I do the solid surface, could I put the 2x6 bullnose pieces on the wall and 3x6 tiles in the recess, as opposed to the reverse? I can't find an actual picture of this. This would allow me to order from Lowes and not Daltile (easier returns if I don't need all the overage I'm getting). If it is better to do the bullnose tiles in the recess, I'm stuck with Daltile (or Ferguson) b/c of the bullnose sizes. Does it actually matter which side they are on?

Thank you so much for all this help. I wish my contractor had brought up the window sill/niche slab vs tile issue!!! I hate scrambling like this.

**********

(OLD QUESTION)

If I were to do the 4x12s, Daltile actually has a 4x12 Color Wheel tile in the same white. They also make a 12x36 white glossy tile, but it's in the Aesthetic line, and Idk how closely it would match.

Edit: I called them and it sounds pretty similar in color. The guy was a little iffy on this application (ie not on a wall) and said it could crack if we dropped something on it, but I explained it was for a window sill and niches and he seemed ok with that. Thoughts?

• You could use the Daltile Color Wheel Linear*. However, all Bullnose tiles (16", 12", 8") have the bullnose edge on the long side, not the 4" side.
• You could use Daltile Color Wheel Classic* 3 x 6 Wall Tile + 3 x 6 Bullnose Tile with bullnose on the 3" side.
• You could use any Daltile Color Wheel Wall Tile + Jolly on the edge (i.e., NO bullnose tile)
• You could use any Wall Tile + Schluter Edging & Outside Wall Corners trim

-----

*available in Arctic White

Corian update just above.

Does this work? I would probably run the 3x6 tiles lengthwise.

If I do it this way, should I just do the regular 3x6 below the slight Corian overhand, as the edge doesn't matter, or should I do the 2x6 bullnose only for the sake of the windown being outlined entirely in 2x6 tiles?

"I would probably run the 3x6 tiles lengthwise"

I assume lengthwise = stacked vertically, and that you are thinking the following:

• 3 x 6 Wall Tile next to the window glass on the right- and left-hand sides
• 3 x 6 Wall Tile cut to 3 x 3 next to the window glass at the top
• 3 x 6 S4369MOD Bullnose Trim (with bevel on the 6" side) on the wall at the right- and left-hand edges of the window
• 3 x 6 S4639MOD Bullnose Trim (with bevel on the 3" side) on the wall at the top edge of the window
• 3 x 6 Wall Tile everywhere else

*pretty sure I am going to use 2x6 bullnose, not 3x6, unless that's a bad idea for some reason. I think it's more of a vintage look? I am running the bullnose offset along the edge of the 3x6 wall tiles where they meet the painted wall.

As far as the right and left sides, yes, that is what I was thinking (but 2x6). At the top, though, I was going to do 3x6 wall tile horizontal next to the window glass, and the 2x6 bullnose horizontal on the wall at the top edge of the window. I should have said that too, not just that I was going to run them all vertically. When I typed that out, I guess I was focused on the sides and forgot about the top. Oops. That would look best, right, for consistency?

• 3 x 6 Wall Tile vertical next to the window glass on the right- and left-hand sides
• 3 x 6 Wall Tile horizontal next to the window glass at the top
• 2 x 6 Bullnose Trim (with bevel on the 6" side) vertical on the wall at the right- and left-hand edges of the window
• 2 x 6 Bullnose Trim (with bevel on the 6" side) horizontal on the wall at the top edge of the window
• similar deal with the niches where the outside edges (left, right, and top) would be lined with 2 x 6 bullnose tiles
• 3 x 6 Wall Tile everywhere else except:
• 2 x 6 bullnose vertical where the 3 x 6 horiztontal wall tiles meet the painted walls

*all bullnose tiles would be offset*

Imo, mixing the 2x6 tile with 3x6 makes no sense.

"2 x 6 Bullnose Trim (with bevel on the 6" side) horizontal on the wall at the top edge of the window"

Why a mismash of vertical and horizontal tile on the wall?

Why a mismash of vertical and horizontal tile on the wall?

I was picturing the bullnose tiles as framing the window/niches (as below) but I guess it doesn't have to be like that. I had a hard time finding a picture of it, and I just found a couple this morning . . . and I don't really like it. Lol. I actually want the edges to be very simple and not eye-catching. I think what really bugs me here is the mitre. I just don't like it and it's so noticeable. So I'm scrapping this idea.

Here are my ideas:

note that I am still planning to do the corian sill/bottoms of niche, which is not reflected in all these sample pictures

1) Most expensive (due to tile sourcing):

Using bullnose tiles where some have the bevel on the 3" side and some have it on the 6" side and continuing the brick pattern without interruption. This is the simplest look, and it was the hardest one to find a picture of (mine would look even simpler b/c I would not have 2 pieces of tile on every other recessed row)

2) Less expensive:

Using the regular 3x6 wall tiles on wall and bullnose tiles in the recessed areas (pretend this is subway tile inside the niche). This is basically the reverse of #1.

3) cheapest (can order all from Lowes):

Using regular 3x6 on the walls and in the recessed areas, and using ceramic jolly where they meet.

4) also on the cheaper end:

I previously ruled out a Schluter strip b/c I am going for more of a vintage look, but would it really stand out if I used white? I see that there are some pretty narrow options. My contractor seems to have a preference for using Schluter.

What do you think of these options?

Also, after all this back and forth and all the hours I have spent measuring and googling and looking at pictures, did I basically come up with the most obvious ways to do a niche? I don't know whether to laugh or cry. This is where a designer definitely would have been helpful but I couldn't imagine hiring one for this bathroom.

Chat with Copilot Ai:

Q: "I am filling a shower wall with flat tile. I have niche. Should I install bevel tile inside the niche where its edge meets the flat wall tile or should I install bevel tile on the wall where its edge meets flat wall tile installed inside the niche?"

A: The cleanest, most professional way to handle a niche transition is this:
The bevel tile should go on the wall, not inside the niche. The flat tile should stay inside the niche.

That’s the industry‑standard layout because it produces the correct visual hierarchy, the correct water‑shedding geometry, and the cleanest shadow line.

Why the bevel belongs on the wall (not inside the niche)

1. Bevels are meant to be “seen,” not buried

A bevel is a decorative edge. When you place it inside the niche, the bevel gets visually lost because the niche is recessed. On the main wall, the bevel reads cleanly and frames the niche.

2. The wall tile should “picture‑frame” the niche

Think of the niche as a window. The wall tile creates the frame; the inside surfaces stay flat. Putting bevels inside the niche breaks that frame and looks visually inconsistent.

3. Water behavior is better when the niche interior is flat

Flat tile inside the niche:

• drains predictably
• shelves sit level
• grout lines stay uniform Bevels inside the niche create small ledges that collect water and soap.

4. Alignment is easier

Flat tile inside the niche lets you:

• keep grout lines continuous
• maintain clean corners
• avoid awkward bevel‑to‑flat transitions inside tight spaces

Bevels on the wall allow a clean, intentional transition at the niche perimeter.

Continued from above:

• This means that #2 is wrong as the beveled tile is inside the niche where it doesn't belong.
• You can't do #1 because you can't expose the edge of any flat tiles.
• #3 is risky using Lowes tile because the wall tile and Jolly are from different Daltile series: Core Classic and Stencil, respectively. You could do this with Daltile Color Wheel from fergusonhome.com.
• I like the Schluter because the edge ("seen not buried") is clean with no breaks for grout.

I think at this point I will go ahead and use the Schluter strip but I do have a question and a couple comments.

You can't do #1 because you can't expose the edge of any flat tiles.

So does that make this wrong? I don't really get this one.

This means that #2 is wrong as the beveled tile is inside the niche where it doesn't belong.

Yeah, I haven't loved the pictures I have seen like this. In some pix it looks like the bullnose tile is trying to escape the niche.

Good call on the Daltile Jolly mismatch. I have mixed feelings about the ceramic jolly anyway so I'm fine with nixing that.

I am ordering from Lowes in a minute, and they have it in stock, so I should be good to go for next week. Doing the Corian may create a small delay, as I can't order that until I have exact measurements, but I think it will be worth it. I'm so glad I found a place with Glacier White remnants so quickly.

Thank you again for patiently answering all my crazy questions. I didn't know what I didn't know, and having someone to bounce this stuff off of was so helpful. And you are nice. Lol. Some people here are a bit much (I used Houzz for a previous bathroom remodel and for my kitchen remodel in 2018). So I really appreciate that. I will post before and afters, although you are probably the only person who would be interested.

You can't do #1 because of the edge of the tiles on the window stool* and you can't do that.

Have you compared the colors of the three materials: Daltile Core Classic True White, Corian Glacier White, and Schluter Bright White? I'd go to the store and compare them in person.

-----

*It's "stool" on the inside and "sill" on the outside

I have Glacier White Corian in my kitchen, and it matches well enough. Since it won't be on the same plane as the tiles it will look different anyway. I will have to check out the Schluter though. We are reusing our ORB shower fixtures. Would it look weird to use one of the Schluter dark browns? I love contrast.

"Would it look weird to use one of the Schluter dark browns?"

Oh, I wouldn't do that. I'd use light-to-medium gray for the grout and matching caulk.

Honestly, going with the Corian remnants for the sill and the white Schluter strip is the absolute right call here. It’s way cleaner than trying to piece together mismatched bullnose, and it saves you a massive headache down the line with waterproofing. Can't wait to see the before and afters!

Oh, I wouldn't do that. I'd use light-to-medium gray for the grout and matching caulk.

Don't worry, I am using warm gray for those. I learned my lesson on that one!

the white Schluter strip is the absolute right call here

Will do!

What are you planning to do where the Wall Tile meets the floor, ceiling, and corners? Will the Wall Tile end in the middle of a wall (e.g., adjacent to drywall)?