Has a moisture test been done to the concrete?

How would we test for moisture? I know there is some moisture since we need to run a dehumidifier. As far as seepage or leakage, we do not have any. We will be adding another heating/air conditioning system for the basement also to help keep the temperature even.

Part of the basement is an exercise room - flex would be good.

We ran a dehumidifier before we finished our exposed basement. After, with a separate heating system, the dehumidifier ran only occasionally. That probably accounted for such big energy savings that the new heat wasn't as expensive as we'd expected.
If you never have moisture on the floors, and no signs of water infiltration on the walls or at the edges (damp or salty looking spots) you don't need an inspection for moisture. If you have any of those signs, get a pro in first. No sense spending money to finish a space, only to have to rip it all out for a structural repair in a few years. We had one damp spot, and all it required was some re-grading upstairs in the yard, so it's not always a death sentence of major expense.

Do NOT NOT NOT even consider a wood or engineered wood floor on concrete below grade. The manufacturer will not warranty the product! I have already written at length in a separate post about my experience in removing a failed engineered wood floor (far more costly to REMOVE than to INSTALL). Please don't make the same mistake. It is not worth the risk, no matter what anyone tells you about moisture tests et al...

Kitasei, True, unless you use Dricore. Dricore as well as the flooring manufacturers said they would warrant the installation so long as we installed per instruction.

Fair enough, but what do those instructions say? Make sure every one is followed to the letter. If they say the space has to be kept at certain humidity and temperature levels, you better be sure you are able to do that. No turning down the heat when you go away on vacation!

Basements stay around 60 degrees without heat here in Wisconsin. I'm guessing that's the same wherever llenke is located. There was no humidity requirement in our instructions. Just stuff about not gluing nor nailing the flooring so it could float, and leaving the required gap at the wall edges for the flooring. I think the Dricore was shimmed to the wall edge, but I didn't get involved because our contractor had it installed so fast I never read the instructions.

When we lived in MN we finished our basement floor with an acid stain. If you like the look, it works great as there is no worries about future moisture problems with it.

I have a basement with engineered flooring in two rooms. Tested first for moisture by placing a square of plastic wrap on floor and securely taping all sides down. Use about a square foot. Leave it for 2 weeks. If you have moisture, it will collect under plastic. Got this info from a building magazine.
Ours floors are fine,but if I knew thenwhat I know now, I would have stained all the concrete with kimco (?Spelling) stain. My husband and I did a large rec room and it came out beautifully. Even the contractor was impressed.
I will caution, if you're considering stain, don't clean floors with any solution until you read instructions on straining product. Also, if you're painting walls first, use a drop cloth, because any paint wiped up creates a stain. What you get with a stain is a chemical reaction that creates pattern and color. It will not take over a wiped up paint stain, oil spill, etc.
I wouldn't risk putting real hardwood in a basement. Hope this helps.