In order of hardness of the woods you listed; teak, mango, walnut, elm. None come close to hard maple. I can't imagine why anyone would spend the money on walnut and then stain it cherry or maple. Walnut is next to the most expensive of the woods you are considering. The only one more expensive is Teak. (I'm talking about rough cut lumber pricing.) None of this makes sense.

sorry for the confusion .. there are several solid wood top options. one is walnut, one is cherry, and one is stained maple.

so... here's a link to one with a mango top:
http://www.homedecorators.com/P/Holbrook_Dining_Table/950/

and here is a linke to one with a solid walnut top.
http://www.roomandboard.com/rnb/product/detail.do?productGroup=19578&catalog=filter&menuCatalog=room&menuCategory=197&menuSubcategory=152

we will use the table every day to eat, do homework, etc .... we can also get them with concrete! just that would be my best bullet proof option! thank you for all your advice.

Al, what would you recommend for wood species and finish process for a finished wood table used hard by a family including: writing with pens and pencils on 1 sheet of paper on wood; iced drink glasses with condensation; wiping up food crumbs and grease with damp towel; abrasion and scratches of household objects; etc.? Concrete and Formica would have the performance but of course, wood looks much better!

I've been using a mango wood table for 4+ years and am guardedly satisfied with performance, but that's only because the top was so rustic to begin with that mild damage doesn't really show. I oil it every few weeks and let that soak in, then rub it down. (I filled in the little gaps between planks with a melted brown Crayola.) And there are 2 little knots in the wood that have swollen from the moisture over the years.

Soberg, if I was making a table for every day use with kids, I would recommend it be made out of hard maple with a conversion varnish finish on it. The other thing you could do is buy a table pad for it and take it off when you have company over. Although you seem to have taken care of the one you have. How about having it refinished and getting a new one once the kids are a little older? One other thing just for your info. The knots didn't' swell, the thickness of the boards shrunk. They probably weren't dried to the correct moisture content for your area before it was made.

What is a conversion varnish finish?

Sorry, for that. Conversion Varnish is a two part catalyzed finish that must be sprayed on. It is what I use for things that are going to see a lot of use. It is not something a homeowner can use. If you are planning on doing this yourself, I would try a spar varnish. It's a very water resistant finish, used on boats, and is easily repairable.

Just wanted to weigh in, I bought a hickory wood farmhouse table and it is indestructible. The look of hickory is not for everyone, but if you want something that won't nick, I recommend it. My small children stab their forks and knives into the table and there's no damage!

Finish is everything. If the table is made overseas, be careful.

Finish is not everything. There is much more to a quality product than finish. It all begins with the wood, what type, how it is cut, stored, dried, etc. Then there is the actual construction. Joinery techniques and how it is prepared for finishing. Then finally the finish. Is it a show piece or for everyday use? Stuff coming from the far east is in the junk category, starting with the wood, it usually isn't dried correctly for the US.

BTW this is a very old post.

Man... I'm in the wrong biz!
Followed the "old" link to the mango topped table.
$800+ delivered AND you have to assemble it?
Powder coated "rust free" metal frame and some variation on the theme of hardwood top.
I'm headed to the shop to plug in my wire welder, and gathering up all of our walnut throw aways... lol

If you use it hard I would get a natural hardwood top, eventually it'll scratch but you can sand and re-apply clear coat and it'll look new. I don't like stained wood anywhere that would easily get scratched. Depending on the stain color sometimes it's hard to match the original.

What is the proper moisture content for Michigan for Mango Slabs. Just bought 3 slabs from main trunk 48" x 120" x 2.5" for Island and Kitchen countertops. Present at 22% moisture and is drying it to 16% on Big Island before shipping. Krystal varnish was recommended for finishing. What would be your recommendation on moisture and finish material???
Most beautiful burl, curly grain wood I have seen with colors of red , green, purple and yellow streaks in it. Have made maple cutting board 24" x 24" and also have 3 glass pot plates for hot pans.

A couple of other questions. Would you seal both sides before mounting to kitchen countertops??? and would it be necessary to wax end grain like I had to on IPE wood decking?? Here is picture of 2nd slab

Last set of Questions: 1. These slabs weigh about 250pds each and the third slab I would like to use in an entertainment room as natural shaped 10ft long table. Can you finish it with the bark on it or is it best to remove it???
2. Is there away that I could just set this slab on a table frame possibly with carpet stick pads so I could flip the slab over from time to time since colors and grain patters are so different on each side. I plan on just sanding the sharp edges down and finish sanding tops with 220 grit and 400 grit sand paper. What are your recommendation to mount Slab so it will stay Flat?? Or will slab stay flat if not mounted??

@ bobmi

The average indoor moisture content for your area of the country (and most of the rest of the northern states is 8%. If the Krystal you are talking about is MLCampbell's Krystal then it is a very good finish for cabinets, I'm not so sure about counter tops. It is a catalyzed varnish and if damaged very difficult to fix. It is a two part mixture and must be sprayed.

Absolutely both sides must be finished the same way to help in reducing any twisting, checking, warping, etc. The waxing is to prevent too much moisture leaving too fast when drying. Once dry to the correct MC, no need to apply more wax, the finish will suffice.

Whether or not the bark stays on depends on when the tree was cut. If it was cut in the winter, the bark will remain on. If it was cut in the summer it will eventually fall off.

Can't guarantee it won't twist or warp without support from the bottom (i.e. just laying on a base). 400 is way too fine a sandpaper for this application. I would say 180 max, but it's a judgement call as you are sanding.

Thank You for information - it is great. Will do especially on the sanding tip.
Aloha Woods Inc. said to use the Krystal Varnish from ML Campbell - it is the same you mentioned, but has to be sprayed on.
(Boy do they have beautiful Slabs - A very large 4' x4' Koa Slab).
1. What do you recommend to finish/seal the kitchen counter tops, Island and table?? Is there something kinder and easier to work with and stand up to the use problems???
2. How would you mount countertops to cabinets?? Use "L" brackets at wall with a slide "L" brackets in center edge of outside front edge of cabinet??? (for expansion) and on a slide "L" bracket on ends of slab by wall???
3. Would you use GE Silicone non hardening to set slabs on cabinet besides brackets?
Note: I do try and keep my moisture level at 35% during winter for my parquet floors (Zebra walnut, wormy Sassafras, Brazilian Cherry, Tiger wood, Australian Cypress, Oak, Walnut) with a continuous humidifier fan on furnace. It usually stays at 35% to 38% and keeps the contraction down on the flooring. Set for 40%. See Tidewater Lumber and Moulding review 2 for pictures of floors.

ML Campbell's Krystal Varnish is a post catalyzed conversion varnish, not really suitable for counter tops because of its difficult to repair properties. It is a great finish, I use a lot of it, but application requires professional spray equipment and experience. I doubt it is food safe. For wood counter tops, I recommend Waterlox. It's been around for a long time, is food safe, and repairable. The oil based products (which are the best) will add an amber tone. The water based (but oil modified) will add less of the amber tone.

If I understand what you are proposing you are going to hard mount the back and the slab will be able to expand towards the front. I would not add any silicone. In addition to restricting the movement, silicone is a contaminate to wood and will cause finishing problems afterwords, if you have to repair any of it.

EMC at 35%RH is about 7%. So, before doing anything to the wood I would make sure it is dried to 7% EMC. If you are going to air dry it, for it to reach EMC in the environment it will be in, the rule of thumb is 1 year for every inch of thickness.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, I want to thank you for your professional tips. I will use all of them. Yes hard mount back and let slabs expand. I did go to your site and your work is spectacular. Loved the inlaid table top.
It helped me for IDEAS for our triangular breakfast nook table. We also purchase 2" thick spalted mango pieces with kamani wood planks which has overtones of red that I picked up there. This Inlay nook will be the compliment between kitchen the different wood in each room. We have purchased an inlaid mahogany dining room table a few years ago.

I have a Mango table purchased from a furniture store. I would like to us it outside on a cover patio (12 feet deep) What would I need to put

on the table to make it outdoor ready?It feel like it has nothing on it.

Thank you

What should
I be using to clean my cherry kitchen cabinets? Especially near the knobs They are 20 years old.