Finish every room with a green plant. A good tip no matter the size of your space, but especially relevant for small space dwellers. In addition to cleaning the air and adding a bit of interest, plants create a sense of depth, softening the edges of a room and helping us to imagine there is more space beyond their borders.
Consider museum lighting. Think of your home as a gallery and put specialty museum lighting to work. It feels unexpected and highly custom. The bulbs are typically halogen, for lighting that has a sparkle you won’t find with CFL or LED lamps. Don’t be afraid to use these even if your art collection isn’t what you’d like it to be. Consider the effect of these fixtures washing a wall of reclaimed wood or stacked stone.
While the bare bulb may not be appropriate for every space, it is in this bathroom. This is a place where lighting one’s face is essential and the omnidirectional light from the exposed lamp works well. Now that legislation has forced the phase-out of inefficient incandescent bulbs, new emphasis has been placed on designing CFL bulbs that are aesthetically pleasing. The bulbs shown here are made by Plumen, in London, and are a wonderfully sculptural alternative to the more common twisted-spiral CFL.
Be square. You’re probably familiar with traditional round recessed lights, but those are not the only option anymore. I’m a huge fan of square recessed light trims, especially when they’re used in places that by nature have square edges, like this ceiling. The trims fit with the dominant geometry of the ceiling — no round cutouts to be done. As a whole I think they just feel more custom. Square trims have all of the options of their round counterparts and don’t require any specialized features. Some lights are even available trimless (with no flanges), for a completely integrated look.
Do the math. Having a hard time knowing exactly how much light you need in a space? As a rough guide, calculate the square footage of the space you’re trying to light and multiply that total by 1.5 to get the total wattage required. When selecting CFL (compact fluorescent) or LED (light-emitting diode) fixtures, be sure to check the lamp’s incandescent-equivalent wattage. For example, the light output of a 13-watt CFL is equivalent to a 60-watt incandescent. The wattage ratings measure how much electricity the bulb actually uses, not the amount of light it gives off. If you can afford it, use dimmers on every circuit for maximum control of light levels. It can compensate for overlamping (using a bulb with a too-high wattage for the fixture) as well.
Uplight only. For pathways and circulation areas, it’s often suitable to provide only enough ambient light to get from here to there. Uplighting produces a relatively flat overall light, but washing a textured wall with soft streaks of light, as shown here, encourages movement and renders the wall surface an artful composition.
Light the destination. Light naturally draws us in and suggests refuge. This concept can be put to use in any part of a home, but it’s especially effective outside, to announce entry, establish gathering points and suggest hierarchy among building components. I really appreciate how the ambient light emanating from this garage is enough to bridge the gap between arrival and entry without the need for intermediate path lighting. This further enhances the destination lighting.
Consider the trim. One often-overlooked detail related to recessed lighting is its appearance when it isn’t illuminated. Lighting trim, the finished component that holds the bulb in the housing, can have a strong presence on a ceiling plane. If your ceiling is white, selecting a darker light trim will strongly emphasize its geometry. It will also reduce glare from the light source when lit. Selecting a white trim will tend to blend the fixtures into a white ceiling plane. Here the architects integrated linear troughs into the larger design concept by staggering the dark trims to complement the structure in the ceiling.
Task lighting. The pendant task lighting above the desk illuminates the work area. While it contributes to the ambient light, it’s clearly secondary. It also helps to divide the space for work and the one for repose. Accent lighting. The table lamp functions as the accent; it lends a pop to the wall area nearby but does little for the real work zone in the room. The layering of it and the other two types allows for both light and dark places in the room and reinforces the overall interior concept of a cooler refuge in a desert landscape.
Consider the rule of three. Most successful lighting concepts use a combination of three types of lighting: ambient, task and accent. By layering all three in differing proportions, you can achieve professional results. Ambient lighting. The general illumination in a space is called ambient light. While both task and accent lighting contribute to ambient lighting, ambient light sets the predominant light level and mood in a space. In the room here, most of the ambient light comes from a large wall of glass to the right (not shown), with some support from the wall washers located in the ceiling. The mood is sheltering with a steep gradient between the bright exterior
The last two categories are Frost and Tone. Frost is a simple either/or rating and it tells you whether can withstand freeze and thaw cycles outdoors. If you're using a tile indoors, this rating doesn't matter. And finally, the last category is Tone. Tone only applies when there is intentional variation from tile to tile to mimic the look of natural stone. If you're looking for a tile with consistent color, toned tile is not for you. That category though, is definitely something to look for if you're looking at single tile samples.
A C.O.F. greater than .50 is recommended for standard residential applications. A C.O.F. greater than .60 is required for commercial applications and to meet Americans with Disabilities Act guidelines. If you're looking to tile a bathroom floor, pay attention to that C.O.F rating. The higher the number, the less likely you'll be to slip when you're getting out of the shower.
Slip resistance. Another important rating is a given tile's coefficient of friction, abbreviated as C.O.F. The COF refers to a tile's natural resistant to slip and it's measured by the force required to slide an object across a surface divided by the object's weight. Lower C.O.F. numbers indicate less friction and the floor will provide less traction. Higher C.O.F. numbers indicate that a floor will be less slippery.
What's called a porcelain tile isn't really made from porcelain, but it is in that final category, impervious. A tile has to absorb less than 0.5% in order to be called porcelain. A lot of times, that label porcelain carries a price premium and if you can save some money by buying a vitreous tile (0.5% to 3% water absorption) you'll be being a smart consumer. Tile categorized as vitreous has to be called ceramic. Don't look away if you see a floor tile that's not labeled as a porcelain tile. A vitreous ceramic floor tile will do the job you need it to do in your home.
Nonvitreous tile absorbs more than 7% of its weight in water and is inappropriate for use outdoors or in a wet area such as a bath or spa. Semiviteous tile absorbs between 3% and 7% of its weight in water and it too is only appropriate for use in dry, indoor areas. Vitreous tile absorbs only 0.5% to 3% of its weight in water and it's a rating you want to see if you're using a tile outdoors or in an area where there's a lot of moisture present. The last category is impervious and it absorbs less than 0.5% of its weight in water when exposed.
Water-absorption rate. Another important category to consider when you're looking at ceramic tile is its water absorption rate or W.A. A tile's W.A. rating will tell you if a tile you're considering is the right tile to use in a wet area or outdoors. There are four categories in the W.A. rating and they're expressed as a name and percentage of water absorbed by a tile.
daltileproducts.com SaveEmail Daltile Continental Slate™ Asian Black - $5 Ceramic tiles rated PEI I and II are appropriate for use as wall tile only. They tend to be decorative and cannot withstand foot traffic. Tiles rated PEI III offer moderate resistance to wear and they are appropriate for most residential uses. Tiles that carry a PEI IV are highly resistant to wear and appropriate for all residential and some light commercial uses. Tile rated PEI V are the most resistant and are appropriate for use in heavy commercial locations. If you can save money with a PEI III or PEI IV tile, go for it. Anything rated higher than that is overkill for residential uses.
Wear rating. The second category is something called a PEI rating. PEI stands for the Porcelain and Enamel Institute's wear rating. PEI rates a glazed tile's ability to resist abrasion and its suitability as a floor tile. Only glazed tiles get a a PEI rating, if you're buying unglazed tile you won't find this category on the the label.
Grade. The first category is a tile's grade. A tile will have a grade from one to three. Grade one is the highest quality, grade two is similar to grade one but it will almost always be less expensive. Grades one and two are suitable for floors. Grade three tile aren't heavy-duty enough to walk on, and they're only intended to be used on walls. Though you can use floor tile as wall tile, you cannot use wall tile as floor tile. Be sure that any tile you're considering for your floors is at least a grade two.
Many people choose a durable porcelain tile to complement marble (like in this photo) for this very reason. Marble is easily etched by acidic materials, such as lemon and certain cleaning products. If you want to use marble in your bathroom, I suggest testing lotions and other bath supplies on samples to see if there's a reaction. For this reason, marble isn't the best choice for children's bathrooms.
From an installer's point of view, the closer to Italy and Greece a stone is sourced, the better it will hold up in a wet environment. I've also noticed that more veining often indicates a higher iron content, causing the stone to change in appearance over time. Tip: If you cannot find or afford Italian marble, a good-quality porclean tile might offer a similar look.
6. Share humor with family. Shared humor strengthens relationships and encourages teamwork. As well as providing a place to organize household appointments and activities, a big chalkboard like this one gives all family members their say and can be a great source of running jokes.
3. Post funny house rules. Humor helps put people at ease. Sometimes there are things you’d like to remind visitors about, but you want to do it nicely. There’s nothing like making a joke to get the message across without offense.
Interesting entryway
Save (but don’t skimp) on insulation. “Insulation is cheap,” says Fry. “For a small extra cost, you get lots more R-value.“ Insulation helps keep your home cooler in summer and warmer in winter, so spending a bit extra to create a well-insulated home will save you money in the long run.
You can search for remnants on your own (try Craigslist or a local architectural salvage yard) or ask your contractor for a source.
3. Plant life. “I know some of us have been scared off indoor plants … but it’s time to reclaim the idea of indoor plants with cascading creepers that can dress any bathroom,” McClelland says. If you’re eager to try this trend in your bathroom but want a more sophisticated and design-savvy alternative to potted plants (hanging or not), a vertical garden may be the way to go, McClelland says. “I love them for the interest and feel they bring to a bathroom and can’t wait to use them more in my designs for 2015,” the designer says. Another benefit of green or living walls is that they are good for the environment (as well as your health and well-being), she says.
Why: Avoid the dreaded toppling pile of linens by subdividing your linen closet using smart organizers, and find what you need without a fuss. How: Shelving, towel racks on the back of the door, shelf dividers, and storage baskets and boxes make a linen closet far more functional. Pick up components yourself at an organizing store or a home improvement store, or hire a closet designer to create the perfect linen closet for you.
If you’re stuck with a busy or dated pattern you don’t like, take a cue from this condo renovation I completed recently. Staining a floor to a dark finish and sealing it thoroughly can virtually erase the seams between boards, preserving the inviting texture of the wood while erasing the seam lines — because sometimes the best floor pattern is none whatsoever.
Consider keeping connecting spaces neutral. White, beige, greige and the like are fairly foolproof choices for halls and landings, and they give the eye a place to rest between areas of more saturated color. On the other hand, if you have decided to stick with white or soft neutrals in your rooms, the halls and landings can be a great place to experiment with a richer hue. It doesn't need to be a big departure from the other colors you are using — just a shade or two darker is enough to make an impact.
Build your palette with shades of the same hue. Once you have a paint color picked for your first room, one simple way to move on is to choose shades of the same hue for adjacent rooms or walls. You can choose a hue from a nearby paint chip, pick the next color up or down on the same paint chip, or even have the same color mixed at the paint store with white added to make a lighter version.
Start by picking a color for the biggest, most centrally located room. This will most likely be your living room or kitchen, and it's a great place to start working on your whole-house palette. If picking colors has been stressing you out, choosing a soft, neutral hue for the main room will make picking the other colors easier. And you really can't go wrong with white.
Work the angles. Though it is your frontal vision that “sees” color, the ability to look at color choices obliquely is a trick of the trade. Move around the room as you assess your samples and pick one or two that you think work. The choices will be obvious if you do not stand in one place, rigidly questioning your ability to decide what is best. This is where speed helps you get the result you want. You’ve done the work of light assessment required to make good color choices. Now let yourself use your intuitive knowledge to create the home that you and your family desire. Edit out the samples that do not satisfy and then choose from the remaining two. There is no one right answer. This part of the color process is fun and can be done in a snap. Let yourself tap into your innate understanding of what makes a habitat satisfying. From your lifetime of experience, the information you need to make a choice of color that fits your requirements is preprogrammed, just ready to be put into play.
Work the angles. Though it is your frontal vision that “sees” color, the ability to look at color choices obliquely is a trick of the trade. Move around the room as you assess your samples and pick one or two that you think work. The choices will be obvious if you do not stand in one place, rigidly questioning your ability to decide what is best. This is where speed helps you get the result you want. You’ve done the work of light assessment required to make good color choices. Now let yourself use your intuitive knowledge to create the home that you and your family desire. Edit out the samples that do not satisfy and then choose from the remaining two. There is no one right answer. This part of the color process is fun and can be done in a snap. Let yourself tap into your innate understanding of what makes a habitat satisfying. From your lifetime of experience, the information you need to make a choice of color that fits your requirements is preprogrammed, just ready to be put into play.
What color are you craving? I tell clients and students searching for color ideas to try a trick that many landscape painters use to make swift judgments about color. Think about the “taste” you are trying to achieve, as you might while deciding what you want to snack on. Are you craving something salty or sweet or perhaps a little tart? By trying to interpret a color through a sense other than vision, your perceptions are heightened naturally. This is called synesthesia. Try tasting your way to ideas about color — and order more samples than you could possibly use. Be sure to sample some of the colors recommended by family, friends and showroom displays. Now is your chance to explore ideas that you have discussed and dreamed about.
Kimberly Collins Jermain SaveEmail View your colors in the space. Once you have established the requirements for natural light and its availability in your rooms, gather samples of colors you think you might like for each room. You can order these online from many paint and flooring companies. Be sure the samples are large (at least 6 by 9 inches), and multiples are a must. You can tape paint samples on the wall with painter’s tape affixed to the back; place flooring samples at the baseboard’s edge. Never try to make a decision about any material for your home without first sampling it onsite. Color is not static; it changes as it interacts with the available light and other colors in the room.
Is it warm in here? Knowing how to interpret your family’s need for heat and light is a color basic for any room. Is there enough warmth in a north room to study in the afternoon when homework is happening? Does the southern-exposed living room of your summer house receive too much sunlight to offer a refuge from the beach during the day? Is there foliage outside the windows that will block the light when you plan to use the room? Visual color cues can make us feel warm or cold. You can use color to adjust the balance. Warm colors, such as yellow, orange and red, mimic sunlight and fire, and raise our blood pressure and body temperature. Cool colors, such as blue-gray, cool greens, white and black remind us of stone, snow, ice and water.
Look at the materials in the room. How light bounces off walls, countertops and floors is another condition to note before making color selections. If a black honed-granite countertop is draining light from your kitchen, the walls and floor will need to be pressed into service to amplify the sunlight. You might choose a warm yellow floor to step in for the sunlight being extracted from the room. Light-colored cabinets also can send natural light where you need it.
Consider natural light. Look at the natural light that illuminates the rooms for which you are devising a color plan. Identify the orientation and the amount of light available during the time of day each space will be used. A kitchen that receives eastern light will have a soft, sunny glow at breakfast but will need some help to be a positive family gathering spot in the late afternoon when dinner is being prepared. A light wall color that has a yellow or an orange tinge can give the room a sunlit glow at the end of the day. Acknowledging the pluses and minuses of the room’s light conditions will help you narrow down your color choices.
9. Space makers. In bathrooms where space is at a premium, it’s important that the storage solutions you incorporate are smart and use every last inch of room available. Take this clever bathroom cabinet, for example. Rather than the tall, deep, narrow cupboard’s being fitted with basic shelving, a pullout storage system has been used instead to maximize space and ensure that the cabinet’s contents are always visible and easy to access. Corner drawers, rotating carousels for awkward nooks and built-in compartments on the backs of cupboard doors are other crafty storage solutions you might like to consider.
For a similar color palette, try Veggie Green, Warm and Cozy, and Spun Sunlight from Mythic.
Tip: An easy way to get your silver clean is to pop some foil in a baking tray, then fill the tray with water and a teaspoon of baking soda. Soak the silver pieces for 10 minutes, then rinse them under warm water. Let them air dry and buff them with a clean cloth.
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