Create an arch. An arbor over a path, gate or gap in a hedge adds interest and height to a garden. An arbor makes the area feel more inviting and provides an entrance. There’s something magical about walking under or through plants, a bit like feeling nestled in the woods. Position an arbor over a straight or curving path, leading the eye through the space. Create planting areas at the base of the uprights for climbers and fruit trees that can be trained to grow up them.
Landscape designer Beth Mullins worked with the existing lower fence around this patio and painted it sage green. She then added a one-of-a-kind screen fashioned from reclaimed pieces, every one of them handpicked by her. Note the way she attached some of the reclaimed pieces to the lower fence to tie it all together. The various colors and textures keep the arrangement interesting. The screen adds privacy, but deliberate open spots keep the space from feeling closed in “I had each board put up one by one and made sure to leave open, ‘negative’ space so that it did not get too crowded and had access to views beyond, ”Staggering the boards helped create the openness without it feeling forced.” Pick the boards all at once to keep a consistent palette in terms of colors and textures.
Create and maintain defensible space. This infographic shows the recommended defensible space surrounding a home in California. Two zones make up the guidelines for the 100 feet of defensible space, according to the California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection (Cal Fire). Zone 1: The home defense zone is within 30 feet of the house. Within this zone you want to remove all dead or dry vegetation, as well as any dead or dying plants, and keep tree branches at least 10 feet from your chimney and other trees. Relocate wood piles into Zone 2. Zone 2: The reduced fuel zone is 30 to 100 feet from the home, or to the property line. Within this zone make sure you cut or mow annual grass down to a maximum height of 4 inches. Create horizontal spacing between shrubs that are two to six times the shrub’s height, depending on the ground’s slope. Space trees 10 to 30 feet apart, depending on the ground’s slope. Remove all tree branches less than 6 feet from the ground. If shrubs are growing underneath a tree, allow clearance space of at least three times the shrub’s height to the tree’s lowest branch.
Planting notes. Riddell’s goldenrod actually seems to prefer a clay soil that is more alkaline, with a pH of 7 or 8. It will spread somewhat moderately by rhizomes in an ideal moisture condition with full sun and loamy soil, but it is not aggressive like Canadian goldenrod (S. canadensis). I’ve grown Riddell’s goldenrod in medium-moisture clay in full sun and never seen it move, much to my dismay.
Rain chain. Transform the sound of falling rain into a musical burble with a rain chain. Used in place of a downspout and connected to the gutter of your home, a rain chain directs the flow of water running off your roof into a series of beautiful linked cups. To enhance your rain chain even more, consider adding pretty stones, river rocks or tumbled sea glass to the ground where the water will eventually flow.
Shaded areas: grass doesn’t often grow underneath these tall trees — mostly because they cast dense shade. If you have rich, moist to medium soil, there are many spring ephemerals to choose from: Dutchman’s breeches (Dicentra cucullaria), trillium (Trillium spp.), shooting star (Dodecatheon meadia), yellow troutlily (Erythronium rostratum) and Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica). For gardeners with dry clay soil, early meadow-rue (Thalictrum dioicum), zigzag goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis), calico aster (Symphyotrichum lateriflorum) and wild geranium (Geranium maculatum) are solid choices. Sprengel’s sedge (Carex sprengelii) is a grass-like option.
2. Ponding water. After a heavy — or even moderate — rain, water may collect in an area of your lawn, drowning grass for days or even weeks. When that water finally vanishes, you’re left with barren soil that’s both unsightly and open to weed invasion. This sounds like an area where rain garden plants may work. These are the plants that thrive in the boom-bust cycle of spring and fall flooding with dry summers. Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Virginia mountain mint (Pycnanthemum virginianum), Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum), switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), muskingum sedge and fox sedge (Carex muskingumensis and C. vulpinoidea), New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra), white turtlehead (Chelone glabra), and Culver’s root (Veronicastrum virginicum) are all good options.
California: Matilija poppy before, it's bound to catch your eye in June, as the bloom season for California native plants winds down," writes garden editor Bill Marken. "Native to Southern California, it's a strapping shrub with bright white, yellow-centered flowers, up to 9 inches wide. It's often called fried egg plant, for obvious reasons. Definitely not dainty and definitely not for formal gardens, this is a good choice for wilder, drier parts of a big garden, particularly hillsides. Beware, though: In favorable spots it can spread widely by underground suckers, which is great for erosion control but not so good if you're trying to maintain better-behaved plants nearby."
Landscape designer and homeowner Michael McIver re-purposed demoed concrete slabs to create this artistic pathway in the side yard of his Spanish-style bungalow in Long Beach, California. New wood entry gates, a potting bench, cafe furniture and Mediterranean plants round out this intimate pathway, garden and seating area.
This picturesque garden in Nantucket, Massachusetts, only hints at a path, with stone pavers barely noticeable in the lawn. Flanked by robust hydrangeas and other flowering shrubs, this side garden and path catch a glimpse of the ocean through a break in the full-height hedge.
Christopher Robertson and Viv Nguyen’s entry path prolongs the experience of getting from the street to the house. Concrete pavers from the driveway lead directly to this pivot gate, meeting the more circuitous route that wraps around the concrete wall in the foreground before arriving at the front door. Simple evergreens add life to the entry garden, with limestone gravel crunching underfoot.
Central Texas property: owners walk up this gravel path every day to pick vegetables and gather eggs from the chickens that live in the barn at the top of the hill. Native grasses border one side of the path and flow down to lower areas of the property, and a gabion wall runs along the other side, terracing the higher points in the landscape
Garden designer Sara Jane Rothwell and landscape architect JoanMa Roig Ortiz created a garden of whimsy in this urban London backyard, incorporating constellations and Antoni Gaudí into its design. Rainbow-hued Moroccan tile, intended to resemble dragon skin
A trip to Kyoto, Japan, several years ago inspired the design for Steven Mempa and Juliet Schwalbach’s home and garden in Seattle. Hidden from the street behind a bamboo fence, steppingstones in a sea of gravel wind around sculptural conifers and architectural boulders, many of which Mempa placed himself.
Less water runoff. There’s a lot you can do with the water that enters your landscape, and it doesn’t have to take much investment. Rain gardens collect water from downspouts or hard surfaces and slow the flow of water off a landscape, cleaning it as it slowly soaks into the ground and recharges the aquifers. Landscape elements like bio-swales and dry creek beds, permeable paving and even rain barrels work together to further manage water responsibly in our landscapes, reducing erosion as well as runoff that overwhelms storm drains and pollutes water bodies downstream.
. Garden folly. Is it a garden observation platform? An alien ship? Part of an old movie set? Whatever it is exactly, having something so unusual in your backyard is sure to spark conversations and lighten the mood!
Distinguishing traits. Golden dewdrops is most commonly grown as a large shrub, but can be trained as a small, arching tree by pruning the lower branches. The arching branches of golden dewdrops are covered in 1- to 3-inch-long bright green leaves that remain evergreen in frost-free climates and are deciduous in regions where temperatures dip below freezing.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 20 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 3.9 to minus 6.7 degrees Celsius (USDA Zone 9; find your zone); can also be grown in zones 7 and below if treated as an annual or brought indoors in winter Water requirement: Moderate; water deeply once a week in summer and twice a month the rest of the year Light requirement: Full sun to filtered shade (avoid western exposure in low-desert gardens) Mature size: 8 to 25 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet wide Benefits and tolerances: Attracts bees, birds and butterflies Seasonal interest: Flowers appear in spring through early fall; yellow-orange inedible fruit appears throughout the growing season When to plant: Spring
Plant a living centerpiece. Why fuss with flowers when you can have a green centerpiece that’s just as interesting but lasts indefinitely? Plant one or more shallow containers with a variety of succulents and line them up along the center of your dining table for a fresh, spring-inspired look. Not loving the succulents? Try planting wheat-grass instead to create the look of a spring meadow
Design green roofs for infiltration. Green roofs have the ability to slow water and to sink water. The shallow types, such as this green roof planted with sedum, offset roof runoff by soaking up water during small storms. Deeper green roofs infiltrate even more water.
Plant rocky surfaces. Similar to asphalt and concrete, even naturally occurring rocky surfaces will quickly shed water. The rock outcropping shown here is also part of a steep slope, which means water whisks right off it. You can plant rocky slopes with alpine species that thrive in low soil volumes. Even a small pocket of soil is enough to carefully establish plants that will spread among a rocky surface. Over time, those plants can spread within the rock crevices to break up the surface and slow water runoff.
Plant steep slopes. Plant slopes with herbaceous and woody plants to slow down quickly running water. This does several good things: It reduces the likelihood of erosion, stabilizes the slope and slows water down significantly more than a slope planted with a mowed lawn.
This garden perfectly illustrates the way in which a central feature, in this case a table and chairs, prevents the space from being a passageway and instead makes it a place to linger. There are a couple of neat tricks here. The first is the circular layout, which uses layers of raised beds and patterned paving to achieve some focus in the center. The second is that an odd number of chairs has been used to emphasize the focus in the space even more. It’s all finished off with boxwood balls and hydrangeas, which mimic the circular nature of the courtyard.
Go up the wall. In a courtyard, green walls not only look stunning, they can cover stark surfaces and save on precious space. Having all your plants on the wall means you can keep the floor area for dining and lounging, while still having the benefit of a living garden. You don’t even have to have an enormous wall like this one; you could easily create much smaller “pictures” of plants within frames. Simple drought-resistant plants, such as sedum, make for easy maintenance as well.
Former screened-in porch that had turned into a glorified storage locker over the years. The space has been transformed into a garden room with a new cement floor, ceiling-mounted pipes for hanging plants, a watering sink made out of a galvanized steel tub and a potting table. The light blue ceiling is a nod to the old Southern myth claiming that a blue ceiling helps ward off bugs and evil spirits.
BLUEBELLS: Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 4 to 9; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Height: English, 8 to 16 inches; Spanish, 16 inches Bloom time: Mid- to late spring Planting tips: Plant 3 inches deep. Bluebells self-seed.
Squill (Scilla siberica) This cheery little plant is attractive to butterflies but not to deer, rabbits or rodents. Squill is great in a lawn, and under trees before they leaf out. It spreads by seeds, so it naturalizes easily, too easily in some places. Squill is considered invasive in some areas, so check with your local extension service or native plant conservancy before planting it. Where it will grow: Hardy to -50 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 2 to 8; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Height: 8 inches Bloom time: Early spring Planting tips: Plant 3 to 4 inches deep. Use about 20 bulbs per square foot.
RIVER BIRCH. This fast-growing and graceful tree can reach up to 90 feet tall and 60 feet wide, taller than its better-known white birch cousins. Along with yellow fall foliage, it'll reward you with interesting bark, and there is even a weeping variety. River birch (Betula nigra) grows in zones 4 through 9 and prefers full sun and regular water.
Hermit warbler. Hermit warblers hug the west coast of California, Oregon and Washington and breed in the tallest trees on earth — old-growth conifers. They spend the winter in Mexico and Central America. Males have bright yellow heads with a black throat and a black patch on the back on the neck, as shown here. Females sport a less vibrant yellow head with streaks of olive on the top and behind their eyes. Both males and females have white wing bars against patches of gray-black feathers and a whitish stomach.
How to Attract Yellow-Rumped Warblers Yellow-rumped warblers’ dietary preferences vary by season. In the winter the birds mostly consume fruit and seeds. This is one reason they migrate a bit later than other songbirds, when fall fruit and seeds are readily available in native habitats from bayberry (Morella spp.), wax myrtle (Morella cerifera), goldenrod (Solidago spp.), sunflowers (Helianthus spp.), juniper berries (Juniperus spp.), poison ivy, Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and dogwood (Cornus spp.). Having a variety of fruit- and seed-producing flowers, shrubs and trees in your yard will provide ideal foraging conditions for yellow-rumped warblers during winter migration.
The size of your rain garden depends on how much stormwater runoff you aim to capture and the type of soil you have. (Most residential rain gardens are in the 100-to-300-square-foot range.) After you’ve calculated your source’s surface area, gather the following information to determine how big to make your rain garden: Determine your soil type: sand, silt or clay Determine your yard’s slope: flat (less than 4 percent); moderate (5 to 7 percent); steep (8 to 12 percent) Use this handy calculator by the Rain Garden Alliance to plug in your numbers for a suggested size and depth. There are several calculators out there. You can use them to get started, but you may want to consult a professional who can double-check your calculations and offer guidance.
RAIN GARDEN - HOW TO: Get started with this checklist to make sure you’re choosing the best location for your rain garden. Make sure the site is: At least 10 feet from the house and foundations of all structures In full or partial sun Downhill from the runoff source (i.e., downhill from your roof downspout if collecting water from the roof) On a flat or gently sloped area In an area that has decent drainage; a rain garden returns water slowly into the soil, so it’s important that the native soil in your chosen spot not be soggy Not directly over utility lines or a septic system Suitable for your overall landscape in terms of circulation, views, entertaining areas, kids’
Leave the soil alone. In vegetable beds, it’s a great idea to amend the soil to suit whatever goodies you’ll be growing, matching soil nutrients to plants. But in most gardens, it’s best to use what you have, matching plants to the native conditions. Plus, tilling soil destroys the structure and a lot of beneficial life. (It’s said there are more life forms in a tablespoon of soil than there are people in the world.)
Don’t evenly space plants.
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Romance. The gate shown here is rustic, unpretentious and romantic. The heart-shaped cutouts and soft blue hue speak to a romantic sensibility
Planting notes. This verbena is not fussy. All it requires is full sun and well-drained soil. Like other verbena species, it reseeds itself. Prune back to the ground as needed in spring and summer to rejuvenate. Shown: Sandpaper verbena planted next to artichoke agave (Agave parryi var. truncata).
How to use it. Plant along winding pathways or next to large boulders to appreciate its vibrant color and upright stems to their fullest extent. Sandpaper verbena is also suitable for growing on slopes and will provide a summer carpet of purple flowers. Plant in street medians, where it will thrive despite the limited soil space and hot, reflected sun.
Botanical name: Glandularia rigida (syn. Verbena rigida) Common names: Sandpaper verbena, rough verbena, tuberous vervain Origin: Native to Southern Brazil and Argentina Where it will grow: Hardy to 0 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zone 7; find your zone) Water requirement: Drought tolerant once established but does best when watered deeply twice a month in summer and every three weeks in spring and fall; water monthly in winter in the absence of rain; in low-desert gardens, water weekly in summer and every two weeks in spring and fall Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 1 to 2 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide Benefits and tolerances: Drought tolerant; attracts bees and butterflies Seasonal interest: Flowers in spring, summer and fall When to plant: In spring or fall from seed or transplants
Palm Beach, New South Wales, Australia
Botanical name: Stachys officinalis ‘Hummelo’ Common name: ‘Hummelo’ betony Origin: Stachys officinalis is native to Europe and Asia; ‘Hummelo’ was introduced by plantsman Piet Oudolf and named after his hometown in the Netherlands Where it will grow: Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zones 4 to 8; find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Water requirement: Average (1 inch of water per week) Mature size: Up to 2 feet tall and wide Benefits and tolerances: Tolerant of deer, rabbits and being planted near black walnut trees; no serious insect or disease problems, although slugs can be occasionally problematic; exhibits some drought tolerance after being established Seasonal interest: Leaves appear in midspring, with purple flowers arriving in midsummer; semi-evergreen in the warmer areas of its range but generally considered deciduous When to plant: Spring or fall
A family of ducks provides fresh eggs for Goodall and her family and fertilizer for the garden.
The integration of a fence and pergola is a classy way to make a modest-size fence big enough to keep out deer without letting it dominate the landscape in a visually obtrusive way. Plus, it also serves as a support structure for vines and is an enchanting way to enclose an outdoor space.
Add an attractive frame to mesh fencing. Wire mesh fencing is practical and affordable, but looks pretty scrappy on its own. Instead of stringing it up along a row of metal posts, frame it on all sides with wood. You can style the woodwork to match other nearby landscape features using trim, custom shapes, paint or other embellishments.
The Spirit of Water Sometimes the best way to work with water is to imply its presence, even when it’s not actually there. Rain chains are a great example. In the image above, the visual tension between the gutter and the bowl below is cemented by the ornate rain chain.
the water flows into a stone-filled basin housing a hidden pump that recirculates the water back to its source. The counterintuitive image of water flowing into a solid object is always visually arresting.
A mixture of planting types. A variety of garden structure is important, along with the use of native plants that have co-evolved with pollinators — host plants for butterflies or their flowers coinciding with the emergence of bees. Dense cover from thickly planted gardens of hedgerows is prime pollinator habitat; a water source is also key. Areas of bare soil provide habitat for ground-nesting bees, and even dead trees can be home to numerous insect species.
Use scrim to add depth and interest while creating the illusion of more space. The garden nearest the house reads as a case study in texture and form. Tall, loose plants, such as giant meadow-rue (Thalictrum rochebrunianum, zones 4 to 8), shown on the left, and Hungarian bear’s breech (Acanthus balcanicus, syn. A. hungaricus, zones 6 to 8), on the right, are positioned in such a way that the viewer peers through them to see the remainder of the bed. This successful use of scrim makes a narrow bed appear larger because of the added dimensionality. This immersion in a landscape is a trademark of Pell’s, and one that this garden wears well.
Provide year-round seasonal interest. A great garden looks good year-round by transforming itself seasonally. Ornamental grasses, such as this ‘Gracillimus’ maiden grass, provide four-season interest and are an affordable alternative to many other seasonal ornamentals. Pell also advocates the use of plants, particularly grasses, to retain slopes as a budget-wise alternative to walls, which he says are frequently overbearing anyway.
Consider planting design from all vantage points. A well-designed garden looks good from any angle. Pell’s garden is designed for maximum curb appeal, but attention was also given to its appearance from alternate viewing points. Taller plants mask unsightly farm equipment, while seasonal flashes of color, here provided by mountain fleece (Persicaria cv., zones 4 to 7), pull attention from less-than-attractive utility lines.
Attractive Landscape That Stretches a Budget Create a destination with a focal point. Every great garden provides focal points to help the visitor understand the space. In Pell’s garden, a cairn (an artfully constructed mound of stones) is the focal point of choice. Historically, cairns are destination markers for shipping. In this case the cairn anchors the space. Pell’s desire for his farm is that it become a destination for design-related horticulture, hence the appropriateness of the cairn. Plants shown (from front to back): Mountain mint, coneflower (Echinacea sp.), ornamental sage, great coneflower, ‘Gracillimus’ maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’, zones 5 to 9) and giant maiden grass.
Cover with vines. Arbors provide a vertical structure that can open up your growing potential for all types of vines. Grow fragrant varieties of climbing roses or wisteria to enjoy the fresh scent as you pass underneath. If you prefer flavor to fragrance, plant grapevines over a structure or train cherry tomatoes up the sides for easy picking. In this English cottage-style garden, the designer planted a blush-pink climbing rose up one side of the arbor and a wine-red clematis to ramble up the other.
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