Applied Contracting Services, home remodel, landscaping, curb appeal, grass area
Inspiration for a timeless exterior home remodel in Orlando

Applied Contracting Services, home remodel, patio area, outdoor media, lounge area, seating area
Example of a classic patio design in Orlando

Kevin Meechan
Dining room - rustic dining room idea in Charlotte

Photo: Esther Hershcovic © 2015 Houzz
Transitional dining room photo in Montreal

Originally, the exterior of the Napa ranch residence was a standard knocked down stucco finish. We covered over the entire exterior of the house with a natural plaster product that has been made in Italy for centuries, known as Rialto or Vero. This product is a combination of slaked lime mixed with 60% reconstituted crushed marble dust. Quarried from the legendary Carrara marble mines. The finish itself is a vertically combed striated texture embedded into the plaster. While it cures, a transparent group of patinas are applied to the stone-like plaster substance to create a look of an aged villa.

Minimalist kitchen with food storage wall and oversized prep island. High gloss white cabinetry, white quartz countertops, white washed oak floors, and metallic accents create a serene setting for the space. The glass railing elegantly divides the kitchen from the sunken living room thus allowing the flow of natural daylight and views throughout.

Inspiration for an eclectic living room remodel in Sydney

Ever notice how your iron fence looks worse every spring after another Chicago winter? That slow deterioration is not cosmetic - it is active metal failure that compounds every freeze-thaw cycle until replacement becomes the only option. Windy City Painters works with homeowners across the Chicago North Side and Near West Side to restore original iron fencing on greystones, two-flats, Victorian brownstones, and coach houses before that point is reached. PROJECT OVERVIEW This iron fence restoration involved a classic Chicago residential property with original wrought iron fencing showing surface rust across the majority of pickets, flaking previous paint coats, and localized deep pitting near the base rails. A structural check identified two loose pickets requiring welding before any surface preparation or coating began. Total linear footage fell in the mid-range for a standard Chicago residential lot. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS Windy City Painters selected Ospho rust converter for chemically neutralizing active iron oxide before priming. Ospho reacts with rust to form a stable phosphate compound that stops corrosion progression rather than simply sealing over it. Sherwin-Williams DTM rust-inhibitive primer was applied to all bare and converted surfaces, followed by two finish coats of Rust-Oleum DTM in satin black. DTM - direct to metal - formulas provide corrosion inhibitors built into the coating matrix, which matters significantly in Chicago's climate. THE PROCESS Step 1 - Structural Assessment and Welding Coordination. Before any surface preparation begins, Windy City Painters inspects every picket and rail connection for structural integrity. Loose or cracked iron must be welded before coating. Paint applied over a compromised joint will fail within one season as movement continues to break the bond. On this project, two pickets were tack-welded by a coordinating welder before prep started. Step 2 - Wire Wheel Grinding and Needle Gun Descaling. All rusted sections were ground to bare or near-bare metal using wire wheel attachments and needle gun descaling tools. This step removes loose scale, flaking previous coatings, and surface contamination that would prevent primer adhesion. Skipping mechanical prep is the single most common reason iron fence paint fails prematurely on Chicago properties. Step 3 - Ospho Rust Converter Application. Ospho was brushed into all pitted and converted areas and allowed to cure fully. The phosphoric acid chemistry converts iron oxide into iron phosphate, arresting active rust and creating a surface that accepts primer more effectively than bare metal alone. Corroseal is an equivalent alternative used on projects with heavier pitting. Step 4 - DTM Primer and Finish Coat Application. Sherwin-Williams DTM rust-inhibitive primer was applied across all prepared surfaces. Two topcoats of Rust-Oleum DTM in satin black followed after full primer cure. DTM finish coats add a second corrosion-inhibiting layer and provide the UV and weather resistance needed for Chicago exterior iron work. CHICAGO-SPECIFIC CHALLENGES Chicago iron fencing faces conditions that accelerate corrosion faster than most US markets. Lake humidity keeps metal surface moisture elevated through much of the year. Road salt splash from winter maintenance reaches fencing along parkways and sidewalk edges, introducing chlorides that aggressively attack iron. Freeze-thaw cycles expand any rust pocket that has formed under paint, lifting coatings from the inside and creating the classic bubbled-paint appearance homeowners notice every spring. WHAT TO EXPECT LONG-TERM With Ospho conversion, DTM primer, and two DTM finish coats properly applied over mechanically prepared surfaces, most Chicago residential iron fences hold 5-8 years before needing significant touch-up. Annual visual inspection for any chips or bare spots, with immediate touch-up using Rust-Oleum DTM, extends that window considerably. PRO TIPS Tip 1 - Address any bare metal spot the same season you notice it. A pinhole of exposed iron becomes a rust bubble within one Chicago winter and a flaking section by the following spring. Tip 2 - Never paint over active rust without a converter step. Ospho or Corroseal is inexpensive insurance against a complete repaint two years early. Tip 3 - Check picket bases at grade level every spring. Ground contact accelerates corrosion at the base faster than anywhere else on the fence. Catching it early keeps welding out of the equation. Contact Windy City Painters at windypainters.com for a project estimate. FAQ Q: What does iron fence painting cost in Chicago? A: Residential iron fence painting with proper rust prep typically runs $300-$900 for standard lot footage. Windy City Painters provides itemized estimates based on linear footage, rust severity, and whether structural welding is required before surface preparation begins. Q: Do you paint over rust or remove it first? A: Windy City Painters always addresses active rust before priming. Ospho or Corroseal rust converter chemically neutralizes iron oxide, and wire wheel grinding removes loose scale - coating over unaddressed rust guarantees early failure on Chicago iron fences. Q: When does an iron fence need welding before painting? A: Loose pickets, cracked rails, or connections with visible movement require welding before any coating work begins. Paint cannot stabilize a structural joint - Windy City Painters coordinates with welders when this condition is identified during initial assessment. Q: How long does iron fence paint last in Chicago? A: With mechanical prep, Ospho conversion, and Sherwin-Williams or Rust-Oleum DTM coatings, properly restored iron fencing holds 5-8 years in Chicago's freeze-thaw climate before needing significant maintenance. Q: Is Ospho better than Corroseal for Chicago iron fences? A: Both are effective rust converters. Ospho is a liquid phosphoric acid treatment suited for moderate rust and pitting. Corroseal is a latex-based converter-primer hybrid better suited to heavier rust profiles. Windy City Painters selects based on site conditions. Q: What finish sheen works best on iron fencing? A: Satin or semi-gloss black is the traditional and most durable choice for Chicago greystone and brownstone properties. Satin hides minor surface imperfections better than gloss while still providing adequate UV and moisture resistance. Q: Can iron fence painting be done in spring or fall in Chicago? A: Yes. Windy City Painters schedules iron fence work in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit with low ambient humidity - spring and early fall are often ideal windows that avoid both winter cold and peak summer humidity.

The pictures show a large Limestone floor laid through much of the ground floor of a property situated on the outskirts of York seventeen years prior. The owners had three dogs that slept in their own doggy room. The floor in this room was in the worst condition of the five rooms as it had been subject to significant wear and tear. The Limestone tiles looked dull with ingrained dirt and the grout was stained and patchy. The original tiler had laid the floor well, but he had applied a satin topical sealer to the stone most of which had worn off over the years. A floor like this would need a little maintenance and the sealer reapplying from time to time to maintain it. I completed a test clean for the client to show them what could be achieved which came out well. Happy with the result they accepted my quote for the restoration work, and we booked in a suitable time to complete the work. The area was quite large, so I separated the job into rooms and started by protecting the skirtings and woodwork from splashing etc. I decided to do a chemical clean first to remove what was left of the old sealer but more importantly to give the grout a thorough clean which was making the floor look scruffy. For this I opted to apply a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which was left to dwell for a short while and then worked in with a mechanical rotary cleaner. It gets to work on the ingrained dirt and sealer. It should also help to get rid of the doggy smells. This process turns the cleaning solution black and is then extracted using a wet vacuum keeping the mess to a minimum. I paid particular attention to the grout which was deeply discoloured and found that some areas required going over a couple of times to get them clean. I was only just getting started on the cleaning but immediately the floor was looking so much better. I then deep cleaned the Limestone with a set of diamond burnishing pads, working in sequence from the 400 grit through to 1500 grit. A small amount of water was used to aid the lubrication and after each pad have been over the entire area few times the solution is rinsed off with more water and extracted with the wet vacuum. The floor came back to almost new and as the client wanted a satin finish, I ended by applying a 3000-grit pad to add a deeper polish to the Limestone. The floor was then left overnight to dry. The last step of polishing with the 3000-grit pad already leaves the floor quite dry however I always like to check before sealing so just to be sure I took some reading with a damp meter. The readings were fine, so I started applying the first of two coats of Tile Doctor Ultra Seal to finish the floor. This is an impregnating sealer (as opposed to the previous topical sealer) that soaks into the stone protecting it from within but without affecting its appearance. This product was chosen in consultation with the client who was specific about how they wanted to floor to look. The floor now looked superb. Both the client and l were very pleased with the finished floor and so where the dogs! For aftercare I recommended Tile Doctor Stone Soap which is designed for cleaning polished stone floors like these, it’s a gentle stone cleaner that helps maintain the patina and ideal for this type of floor. Nigel Stoker North West Yorkshire Tile Doctor

Example of a large arts and crafts beige two-story mixed siding exterior home design in Denver with a shingle roof

These photographs were taken of a bathroom and WC in a property in Histon The client had just had these modern Encaustic tiles laid a couple of months prior. The owner had never been happy with the final look of them and from the markings on the surface it looked like had been damaged in storage or left outside and neglected. They are a pretty unusual design so I can only assume the tiler thought their appearance was perfectly normal at the time of installation. I was confident I could improve the appearance of the tiles and gave the client a quote for the work. Whilst she didn’t want to spend more money on her new floor, she did want it to look as it should, so rather reluctantly she agreed to go ahead. Histon is next to Impington, they are small villages in Cambridgeshire, over the years the two villages have grown and have entwined together. Many villagers in fact do not know where one village starts and the other ends. The have 6 pubs in total! I wasn’t sure what had been applied to the tiles so after adding protective tape to the wooden skirting I gave them a deep clean with Tile Doctor Remove and Go which was worked into the tiles with a black scrubbing pad. Then to renovate the surface and remove the markings I honed the surface with 400-grit and then 800-grit burnishing pad using water to lubricate the process and rinsing and extracting the soil away after each pad with the wet vacuum. There were two areas that needed work so whilst one area was drying, I was able to get to work on the second and then return to the first later to apply a sealer. My product of choice for this floor was Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer which improves the colour and works by penetrating the pores of the tile and protecting it from within. I applied three coats allowing each one to dry before applying the next. The bathroom now looked as it should have done from the beginning. My client was very happy with the improvement and left the following 5-Star review. I only had my floor tiles fitted a few months or so ago and was so disappointed with them. I called Tom and within a few hours, he had transformed them! They look absolutely fantastic! Great value for money as well! I recommended that in order to maintain the tiles, she should use Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner, this is a pH neutral cleaner which will keep the floor without harming the sealer. Many tile cleaning products are only designed for Ceramic or Porcelain tiles and are too strong for use on sealed floors where they will strip the sealer off with time. Tom Conlon Cambridge Tile Doctor

The clients had a concrete slab that they wanted to coat with a decorative concrete overlay. We prepared some samples and the clients settled on a desert beige Elite Crete slate trowel effect with a tile pattern taped into the surface. The concrete was prepared and cleaned. One coat of Elite Crete Thinset was applied. The tape was applied to this coating. A second coating of Thinset was applied to lock down the tape. The third coat was applied by hand trowel to produce the slate stone effect. When dry, the tape was removed and the patio colored using Gray, leigh and chocolate antique staining. The final protection was provided by 2 coats of Elite Crete CSS.

This stunning white kitchen by John Bynum Custom Homes features WalzCraft's LP114 Mullion Accent Cabinet Doors, Applied Molding Cabinet Doors, and Applied Molding Drawer Fronts. Images supplied by John Bynum Custom Homes – Tyrone, GA - https://bynumhomes.com/

Painted this modern home in Shavano Highlands in San Antonio, TX, with a black and white color scheme. Black color applied to vinyl window frames, fascia, soffits. All painted fake stone, stucco, garage doors going the white color. Colors selected: Sherwin Williams TRICORN BLACK (SOFFIT, FASICA, VINYL WINDOW FRAMES) Sherwin Williams EXTRA WHITE (STUCCO, STONE, GARAGE DOORS) Process involved: 1) Preparation: Apply mildew bath then pressure wash painted surfaces. Cover windows, doors, and concrete surfaces with plastic. 2) Pre-painting: Caulk open joints and cracks. 4) Spot prime any bare surfaces. 3) Painting: Apply two coats of DURATION to fascia, soffit, vinyl windows, garage doors. Apply CONFLEX to all stone, and stucco.

Earlier this year I was invited over to a property in the village of Silfield near Wymondham in Norfolk to inspect a Limestone tiled floor. Now I don’t usually quote my clients, but this is how the owner of the property had described the floor in the enquiry I received from Tile Doctor. “Grout Black, where tiles have divots, dirt is encased, plus no shine to floor, sealant non-existent.” The problems listed were quite comprehensive and having had chance to survey the floor we found them to be quite accurate and really could not disagree with her comments! The Limestone tiles had been laid throughout the Kitchen diner and it was clear the sealer had worn off completely allowing dirt to become ingrained in the Limestone tiles and especially the grout which had turned black. I understood from the owner that the grout lines should have been a pale cream colour rather than the black it was now, additionally the natural pitting in the Limestone was full of the same black contaminants. I ran a quick water test on the tiles to see if there was a seal present and it confirmed that if there had ever been one it was now completely compromised. The lack of sealer had allowed all liquid spills and dirt to soak straight into the tile making it dirty and exceedingly difficult to clean. A large birthday celebration party had been planned and our client was desperate for the floor to be brought back to life beforehand. Although I couldn’t start immediately due to other commitments, it was able to return in time to get the floor clean for the party. Our first job was to tackle the severe soiling trapped in the pits and grout lines. To do this a very strong dilution (2:1 ratio) of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean was applied to the floor and left to soak into the tile and grout for about 10 minutes. Then is was scrubbed into the tiles with help from a rotary buffer fitted with a soft/medium long-bristled nylon brush. The resulting slurry was then power rinsed with 60-degree hot water and extracted with our 400psi machine which jetted out all the black, oily contaminants from the grout and pits. The floor was speed dried with the assistance of a large air mover. Once dry to the touch our attention was turned to filling the now exposed pitts in the Limestone tiles and two cracks with an appropriately coloured fast cure epoxy compound. Having allowed the filler time to reach full hardness, we ground down the excess material with 100 and 200 grit hand burnishing blocks in preparation for the next stage. We find the best way to renovate the appearance of stone is to use a process called burnishing which hones the stone and beings up the polish. For this you need a set of 17-inch diamond encrusted burnishing pads. The pads fit the rotary buffer and are applied to the floor in sequence from 400, 800 and then 1500 grit using water to lubricate the process. The waster turns into a slurry as you work, and this is then rinsed off the floor with water after each pad and extracted using a wet vacuum. The floor was then left to dry thoroughly overnight with the assistance of our large capacity dehumidifier. Returning the following day, we thoroughly vacuumed the floor to remove any remaining powder and grit left from the previous day’s wet work before spray burnishing the surface with a Tile Doctor 3000-grit diamond pad. This last pad really beings up the polished appearance of the Limestone and gave the tiles a deep and rich shine. This last pad is applied without water and so leaves the floor dry and ready to for a new sealer to be applied. Our sealer of choice was Tile Doctor Ultra Seal, it’s a premium penetrating sealer that soaks into the pores of the stone protecting it from within. Ultra-Seal doesn’t alter the natural appearance of the stone giving it undetectable protection from staining. Having allowed the sealed floor to dry with the assistance of our air mover, the whole area was buffed using a white buffing pad and a small amount of finely sprayed water to remove any light smearing before vacuuming once again to finish. My client was delighted with the result and left the following feedback for us: “Totally renewed two flooring areas in our house to what looks like a recently laid floor. I have already had so many compliments without even telling people it had been professionally cleaned! Nick and Sue are always very easy to have about, inconspicuous and hard working. Absolutely delighted with the outcome and would recommend without hesitation. Thank you so much!” For aftercare cleaning I recommended Tile Doctor Stone Soap, its designed for cleaning polished stone floors and will help build-up the patina. It’s a neutral pH product so won’t prematurely erode the sealer like many tile cleaning products you find in supermarkets which are really sold for cleaning glazed ceramic tiles not sealed natural stone. Nick White Norfolk Tile Doctor

This client at a property in Bamber Bridge was really fed up with his Indian sandstone kitchen floor. The sandstone suited the age of the property but due to its course rough texture he was having issues keeping the stone clean and maintaining it to a decent standard. Ideally, he wanted something long lasting that was easier to keep clean. Sealers can only help so much on a rough stone like this, in my opinion really rough stone is best sold for use outside in patio’s etc. My client didn’t want to rip it up as it ran underneath the kitchen units and it cost them a lot of money to have it laid, so having been on our website and checked out our previous work they realised we could mill the stone and smooth down the rough texture to a much smoother finish and yet still leave enough texture in the stone for it to look very natural. We have developed a system at Tile Doctor called “Milling” which is very similar to sanding rough wood to reveal the inner patina. Once done we then we give it one more clean before adding a fresh sealer to add protection. Milling does change the look of the stone as you will see on the before and after pictures on this page, so it is not for everyone. It is however a one-off process so once done it will never need to be milled again. Like all stone floors it will still benefit from a deep clean and re-seal every five years (depending on use) just to keep it looking its best but after milling you will be able to walk on the stone in bare feet or socks and slippers as it really does make a big difference to the finish. By milling we mainly use coarse-grit burnishing pads that contain segments made from hard industrial diamonds. Working our way up the different grits the pads are applied using a weighted floor buffer which is run over each tile several times to cut the stone back. The process is so effective we often find that the pads are all you need to clean the stone so hardly ever use any chemicals with this process, apart from the sealer which is applied once fully dry. I should mention that Milling is not something a customer should consider doing themselves as you need invest in a heavy-duty weighted buffing machine which are rarely available for hire. To seal internal Sandstone floors, I usually use Tile Doctor Colour Grow which brings out the natural colours in the stone. On this occasion however two coats of Tile Doctor Ultra Seal were applied to the stone and grout which results in an invisible natural finish and better matched the clients’ requirements. My client was really pleased with the new floor and left the following feedback: “Only finished today but looks so good now. Russell did a great job milling the flags to a much smoother finish. Two coats of sealant applied by Heidi on last day which hopefully will keep it looking that way. Mark F. Bamber Bridge” For aftercare cleaning I left them with a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is specially designed for cleaning sealed floors. You need to be very careful when using supermarket cleaners as many are tool strong and will slowly strip the sealer off the floor, always read the label. Russell Taylor Lancashire Tile Doctor

Except for general cleaning this multi-coloured slate floor had not been professionally cleaned since installation eleven years prior. Any sealer that had once been applied to the slate had long since worn off and dirt was now ingrained in the pores of the stone causing it to look dull and un-attractive. The property was in the lovely town of Staines Upon Thames, obviously situated on the banks of the River Thames and a popular place to live for London commuters. I visited site to take a closer look at the floor and provide the client with an accurate price for renovating the stone. It turns out that the client had used all sorts of different household cleaners in an attempt to get the floor clean. Unfortunately, they were probably making the situation worse as these strong cleaning products would have actually stripped the sealant off the stone leaving it open to dirt. I carried out a test clean for them and they were very pleased to see how the floor could look. We agreed a price for the work and arranged a suitable date to carry out the work. Cleaning a Multi-Coloured Slate Tiled Kitchen Floor My first task was to strip off what was left of the old sealer and deep clean the stone using a dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go mixed 50:50 with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean. This powerful cocktail was applied to the floor and left to soak in for ten minutes before being scrubbed in using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The grout was hand scrubbed using more of the cleaning solution along the grout lines until I was happy the floor was as clean as it possibly could be. The floor was rinsed with water and the soil extracted by using the wet vacuum. Once the floor was clear the Slate was inspected, and any stubborn areas were spot treated using the same process as before. After a final rinse and extraction, the floor was dried as much as possible using the wet vacuum and left to dry off overnight. Sealing a Multi-Coloured Slate Tiled Kitchen Floor I came back the next day and checked the moisture levels of the tiles using a damp meter. The floor had dried well so I had a green light for applying a new sealer. For this I used four Coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next. This product works really well on Slate and gave the tiles a nice sheen finish, the fresh sealer will also make maintenance cleaning far easier in the future. The client was very happy with the result, the floor now looks great and the natural colours of the stone is so much more evident. For aftercare I recommended they throw away all those supermarket products and use Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which is a pH neutral product that won’t prematurely erode the new sealer with use. Jonathan Oldham South Middlesex Tile Doctor

Our client contacted Tile Doctor as they were having problems cleaning their Slate tiled ensuite bathroom. We visited the property in nearby Stevenage, a London commuter town which is between Letchworth Garden City and Welwyn Garden City. The bathroom had been fitted some time ago, but due to the hard water in the area, there had been a large build up of limescale. The dark slate tiles showed this up even more. My client had tried numerous household products on the tiles, but nothing was shifting the heavy build up. I discussed with them what Tile Doctor could do and completed a small demonstration. They were surprised how easily we were able to improve the tiles. We agreed a price and a timescale and booked the work in for a few weeks’ time. The ensuite shower required intensive cleaning to the shower walls and floor where excessive limescale was present so we got to work cleaning with Tile Doctor Oxy-Gel, this is a strong alkaline based cleaner and degreaser, it is a gel so it works well on vertical surfaces where a long dwell time is required to break down dirt, grime, soap scum, oil based products. We left the product on the surface for approximately 10 minutes, removing all previous sealers and dirt. The residue was rinsed off and followed this up with a second clean using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up. Grout Clean-Up is an acidic product designed to remove mineral deposits however you need to be careful with some types of stone as it can etch the surface if used incorrectly. To apply the product was diluted with water in a spray bottle and sprayed on to the wall tiles where it was scrubbed in and then rinsed off. The process was then repeated on the floor rinsing down thoroughly afterwards with water. Once the slate was clean and dry we proceeded to cut out the existing silicone sealant which was equally stained and was beyond cleaning. This is a slow job and care needs to be taken not to scratch the tiles. It is important to ensure all the old silicone is removed so there is a nice clean surface to reapply the new. This also gave the shower area more time to dry out. We tested with the moisture meter to ensure the shower area was fully dry and then applied the sealer. We chose to apply three coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow, this is an impregnating sealer that works by occupying the pores in the stone, so dirt can’t become ingrained there, its also a colour enhancing sealer that provides durable protection. We applied the coats then lightly buffed off the excess with a soft cloth and allowed the slate to dry. The following day we returned to re-silicone all the edges and joints. We recommended to the customer to use a mild solution of Tile Doctor Stone Soap as a maintenance cleaner for the slate. The client was very happy with the result and could see that cleaning with the appropriate product would ensure the ensuite bathroom continued to look good. The whole job took a day and a half to complete. Robert Voyce Hertfordshire Tile Doctor

This detailed Victorian tiled hallway at a property in Camden was overdue some much-needed repair and maintenance. The owners of the property appreciated that original period features like this add a lot of value to a property and asked me to visit the property to quote for renovating it. The property was in a terrace of similar properties most of which appeared to have retained their Victorian character. I inspected the floor and found there were a couple of loose, cracked, worn and broken tiles that needed to be replaced. In addition, the floor tiles needed a deep clean and then seal to bring back the wow factor. I was confident we could renovate the floor but at that point unsure if we would be able to find exact match replacements for the damaged tiles. Fortunately, Victorian tiles are still in demand and I knew of several companies I could check with so I was confident they could be found. We discussed how long the work would take and assuming I could source the replacements agreed a price for the full restoration of the floor. After doing some research I managed to find suitable replacements with a company called Original Style and the work was scheduled for the following month. Firstly, we prepared all areas with protective tapes to threshold edges and skirting. This was followed by spaying the tiles with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove & Go which is product designed to remove old sealers and coatings. After about ten minutes the tiles were scrubbed with black scrubbing pads and scrubbing brushes. Fresh water was used to rinse the floor and the slurry was extracted using a wet vacuum. The floor was inspected and then a second clean carried out, this time using Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a Tile and Grout cleaning agent. The same process of application was used and after rinsing and extracting the dirt the tiles were given a steam clean. This ensured all the dirt was lifted out of the pores of the tile and the floor was now as clean as it possible could be. The next step was the remove the loose and cracked tiles using the reclaimed tiles we had sourced earlier. Some cuts were necessary to get the replacements to match the originals but overall the plan worked. A quick drying adhesive was used to secure the tiles so we could apply the grout shortly after. The whole floor was then re-grouted and cleaned off to ensure a good match. The floor was left to dry off overnight, and you could already see it was now looking considerably improved. Returning the next morning we checked the floor was dry using a moisture meter, this is important as to apply a sealer to damp tiles will lead to a patchy experience. All was well so we were ready to apply the sealer. To start a single base coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow sealer was applied to the floor and left to dry. This sealer is an impregnator that protects from within by occupying the pores in the clay tile improving colour in the process. This sealer does leave a matt finish however and the client wanted a subtle shine so one dry it was followed by four coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go. The combination of the two sealers works really well to add long lasting protection to the tiles and provide the desired finish to the floor. The floor was much improved, and the client was delighted. The detailed pattern and colours were now much more prominent, and the hallway looked much more inviting for both the owner and their guests. For the aftercare of Victorian tiles, I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is pH neutral and won’t prematurely erode the life of the sealer. Nigel Voyce North London Tile Doctor