Search results for "Return correctly" in Home Design Ideas

I was recently asked to survey an unusual stone floor at a house in in Harrogate comprising of Slate inlaid with Granite. The client advised that it had not been cleaned properly for 20 years and wanted it renovating! It was now definitely overdue a deep clean and professional attention. Fortunately, having worked on these floors for many years I knew I could make a substantial impact and transform its appearance. Fossilized slate is a beautiful stone when cleaned and sealed correctly.
The owner confessed they had actually been sealing the floor every two years but without a deep clean first, so they were effectively sealing in the dirt each time. I discussed with them the process I would use to clean and re-seal the floor and we agreed a price to carry to out the work.
To remove the layers of old sealer and dirt used a set of Tile Doctor Diamond Burnishing pads. The pads are attached to a rotary floor machine starting with the coarse 400-grit pad which was lubricated with a dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go to help strip the floor of dirt and layers of sealer. After rinsing and extracting the soil I worked through the different grades of pads in sequence finishing with the 1500-grit and this time using just water for lubrication.
A set of diamond handheld burnishing blocks were then used to clean up the edges and corners where the large 17” pads struggle to reach. This ensures all areas are treated and free of dirt and old sealer.
The floor was then rinsed and extracted again to remove the remaining soil. I find a wet vacuum is an invaluable tool for this. The floor was then left to dry out overnight ready for sealing the next day.
I returned the next day to seal the floor, first checking with a damp meter that the floor was dry, and the moisture reading was below the acceptable level. These results were fine, so I had a green light to continue and seal the stone.
The customer wanted a shine on the floor so rather than apply a satin sealer which I felt wouldn’t adhere to the stone properly I decided to polish the floor further with a the last of the four burnishing pads which is a very fine 3000-grit pad. You don’t need to use a lot of water with this last pad just a small amount sprayed onto the floor using a technique we refer to as a ‘Spray Burnish’.
To seal the floor, two coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow were applied. This is an impregnating matt sealer which intensifies the natural colours of this beautiful stone and provides long lasting durable protection.
Even I was impressed with the finished result but more importantly the client was over the moon. To keep the floor looking its best I recommended they use Tile Doctor Stone Soap which is pH neutral. You should always read the label in detail when choosing a floor cleaning product as many are too strong and not recommended for sealed stone surfaces as they will prematurely erode the sealer.
Nigel Stoker
North West Yorkshire Tile Doctor

The End of the Ultra-Slim Wedding Suit
For several years, men’s formalwear was dominated by narrow lapels, short jackets and trousers cut close to the leg. The style created a sharp outline, but it often left little room for sitting, dancing or eating comfortably. Current tailoring is moving towards a more balanced shape, with cleaner shoulders, a defined waist and trousers that follow the leg without gripping it.This change does not mean that wedding suits have become oversized. The newer approach sits between skinny and loose. It keeps the structure expected of formal clothing while allowing the cloth to hang properly. For grooms, that balance is useful during a day that may involve a ceremony, photographs, dinner and several hours on the dance floor.
Look For Shape Rather Than Tightness
A well-fitted suit should create a clear outline without relying on tension. Collections of Marc Darcy suits include tailored three-piece designs, checks and textured fabrics that suit the current preference for visible structure and considered proportions.
The jacket should sit close enough to define the waist, but the front button should fasten without pulling the cloth into an X-shaped crease. At the shoulders, the seam should finish close to the natural shoulder point. Extra width can make the jacket look borrowed, while a shoulder that is too narrow may cause the upper sleeve to collapse.
Fit should be assessed while moving as well as standing. Reach forward, sit down and raise both arms. A tailored jacket will never feel like casual sportswear, but it should allow the groom to carry out ordinary movements without sharp restriction across the back or chest.
Give The Jacket Enough Length
Very short suit jackets became common alongside skinny trousers, but they can disrupt the proportions of a three-piece outfit. If the jacket finishes too high, the waistcoat may appear longer than the outer layer and the trousers may look as though they begin too low.
A more traditional jacket length usually covers most of the seat and divides the body more evenly. This can make the legs appear longer without shortening the jacket excessively. The correct length depends on height and body proportions, so two men wearing the same chest size may still need different jacket lengths.
View the suit from the back and side rather than relying on a front-facing mirror. The vents should lie flat, and the hem should not lift away from the body. A side photograph can reveal an unbalanced jacket more clearly than the changing-room mirror.
Choose Trousers That Fall Cleanly
The move away from very tight tailoring is most noticeable in suit trousers. A modern tailored leg can still be neat at the ankle, but it should provide enough room through the seat and thigh for the fabric to fall without horizontal lines.
Trouser pockets offer a useful fit check. If they pull open while standing, the waist or hips may be too tight. The fly should lie flat, and the waistband should remain in place without depending on an overtightened belt. Higher-rise trousers can work particularly well with a waistcoat because they reduce the chance of shirt fabric appearing between the two pieces.
The hem should make gentle contact with the shoe rather than gathering heavily around it. A short hem can work with narrow trousers but taking it too far may make the suit look dated once the current cropped style moves on. A slight break is easier to wear with different formal shoes and tends to look balanced in full-length wedding photographs.
Let The Waistcoat Support the Silhouette
A waistcoat adds structure through the centre of the outfit, but only when it fits correctly. It should lie flat against the shirt and cover the trouser waistband. Tightening the back strap cannot correct a waistcoat that is the wrong size or too short.
Current three-piece styling often places greater emphasis on the waistcoat. Double-breasted designs, contrasting fabrics and wider openings can distinguish the groom without requiring a brightly coloured jacket. When the groom removes the jacket later, the waistcoat keeps the outfit looking complete.
Allow room for a full meal and several hours of wear. A waistcoat that feels acceptably close during a brief fitting may become uncomfortable at dinner. Sit down with every button fastened and check whether the lower edge presses into the waist or causes the front to bow.
Use Stronger Lapels Carefully
Wider notch and peak lapels are returning after years of extremely narrow designs. A broader lapel can frame the shirt and tie, balance the shoulders and give the jacket a more formal character. Peak lapels create a particularly strong line on double-breasted jackets and evening suits.
The lapel width should still suit the wearer. A very broad lapel can overwhelm a smaller frame, while an extremely narrow one may look out of proportion on a broad chest. The shirt collar, tie width and lapel should relate to one another without matching exactly.
A wider lapel also leaves less need for decorative extras. A simple buttonhole flower or plain pocket square may be enough. Large lapel pins can crowd the upper part of the jacket, especially when the cloth already contains a check.
Avoid Buying According to the Size Label Alone
The same labelled size can fit differently across designs because cut, fabric and construction affect the garment. Begin with accurate chest, waist, inside-leg and approximate jacket-length measurements. Compare those figures with the retailer’s size information rather than ordering the size worn in another brand without checking.
If the jacket fits at the shoulders but needs slight shaping through the waist, a tailor can often make the adjustment. Sleeves and trouser hems are also commonly altered. Major changes to the shoulder line or jacket length are more difficult and may not be economical.
Do not choose the smallest size that can be fastened. A suit that looks tight in the fitting room is unlikely to become more comfortable during a long wedding day. Cloth should skim the body and return to a clean position after movement.
Balance a checked suit with simple styling
Texture and checks remain popular in wedding tailoring, particularly for country houses, converted barns and traditional venues. These fabrics already add depth to the outfit, so the cut should remain controlled and the accessories relatively quiet.
A plain white, pale blue or cream shirt gives a checked suit a clear foundation. Choose a tie from one of the secondary colours in the cloth rather than introducing another strong pattern. A white pocket square works when the suit contains several shades and does not need further decoration.
Shoes should support the proportions of the trousers. A very slim shoe may appear too small beneath a fuller hem, while a heavy casual sole can pull attention away from the tailoring. Oxfords, Derbies and refined brogues usually provide enough visual weight without looking bulky.
Coordinate the wedding party without forcing one fit
Matching groomsmen suits can become difficult when every member of the party has a different build. Insisting on an identical close fit may leave some men comfortable and others visibly restricted. A better approach is to keep the cloth, colour and main design consistent while adjusting jacket and trouser sizes for each person.
The groom can stand apart through a waistcoat, lapel shape or accessory rather than wearing a suit cut much tighter than everyone else. This creates a connection across the group without treating one silhouette as suitable for every body.
Arrange fittings early enough to identify size and alteration issues. Group orders should be checked well before the wedding, particularly when trousers need hemming or jackets require sleeve adjustments. Each person should try the complete outfit with the intended shirt and shoes.
Judge the suit by the whole day
A wedding fitting often lasts less than half an hour, while the suit may be worn for twelve hours or more. Comfort should therefore be tested under realistic conditions. Sit for several minutes, walk upstairs and check the waistband after moving around.
Pay attention to the parts that cannot be seen clearly in a mirror. The collar should remain close to the shirt at the back of the neck. Jacket vents should not pull apart, and the trouser seat should follow the body without sagging or strain.
The current move towards balanced tailoring gives grooms more room to choose clothes that look formal without feeling restrictive. Clean shoulders, a shaped jacket and trousers with a natural fall will outlast extreme proportions. A suit that allows the groom to stand, sit and celebrate comfortably is also more likely to look composed in photographs taken throughout the day.

Here’s a job I completed just before Christmas last year, at a house in Northampton which has a rich history and mix of architectural styles. The run up to Christmas is always popular as people try to get their household projects finished off in time for celebrating the festive season with family so this is always a busy time for Tile Doctor.
The photos below show a neglected Victorian Quarry tiled floor in need of repair, with cracked tiles along the edges. These were caused by somebody in the past using brute force to remove carpet gripper rods which had been glued to the tiles. These cracks were present around the edges of the entire hallway, however; this particular type of tile is very hard to get hold of. Furthermore, it is a costly process to replace the tiles as the skirting boards would have had to have been removed.
As well as the physical issues the floor had a dull appearance due to the build-up of builder’s dust and the general wearing down of the paintwork over time. I agreed with the client that the best course of action would be to fill the tiles, and paint the damaged tiles using a colour that matched as close as possible. Many of my Tile Doctor colleagues would disagree with this approach opting to source the correct tile and rebuild the damaged section however unfortunately in this case we didn’t have the time or the budget.
My first action was to use a brush and vacuum to remove as much loose debris and dust as possible. I followed this by agitating the tiles with a dilution of Tile Doctor Pro Clean which is a strong alkaline product and safe to use on tile and stone. I use a combination of a coarse burnishing pad fitted to a rotary machine and hand held brushes, in order to get the floor clean. The resulting slurry was then rinsed and removed using a wet vacuum. This process was repeated twice followed by a thorough rinse to ensure any trace of cleaning agent had been removed and the floor neutralised.
As this was such an old property, I then used a steamer to heat up the tiles in order to draw out any contaminants and assist with the drying process. I installed a fan to dry the floor before starting repairs, mixing up some coloured grout and filling all holes and cracks along the edges, including the doormat area.
I allowed the coloured grout to dry overnight, before hand painting the black and Terracotta tiles. These were then given time to dry (about a couple of hours). Following this, I carefully painted in the other colours: brown and cream. The overall effect was quite convincing and you had to look very closely to notice.
Due to the fact that there were other tradesmen working in the house at the time, the floors were sheeted up to protect from additional dust and muck. I then left the house for a week, allowing the floor ample time to dry completely in preparation for sealing.
Upon my return, I took damp meter readings, and once satisfied with the dryness of the tiles, I began the sealing process with the impregnating, colour-enhancing sealer Tile Doctor Colour Grow. The sealer provides both durable surface protection and an aesthetically pleasing matte finish.
The below photos show how the product has enriched the colours with the two coats applied.
The process of restoring this wonderful Victorian Quarry tiled floor was certainly time consuming, but very rewarding. I am exceptionally pleased with the results myself, and my client couldn’t have been happier and I’m sure the newly revitalised hallway will have been a talking point for all their visitors during the Christmas break.
Phil Vissian
Northamptonshire Tile Doctor
Find the right local pro for your project

This property was in theLadbroke Grove area of West London near Kensington. The client had found an old and probably original black and white checkered pattern Victorian tiled floor under their cork tiled flooring. They also reported that it was badly damaged so I thought it would be best if I paid them a visit first to see how extensive the damage was and whether it was repairable. The floor was in a quite a state, the tiles were covered in glue from the cork and had several areas had been back filled with cement.
I reassured them that the damage could be rectified, and that it would be possible to completely restore the floor back to a good standard. I would have to remove the glue, remove the cement that had been used to level the floor and replace with reclaimed tiles to match. They were relieved to find out it could be done and happy with my quote I was instructed to go ahead with the work.
We started by taping up the skirting boards to protect the woodwork. With this done attention was turned to the glue which was softened using a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go so it could be carefully scraped off. Multiple techniques and tools were needed to remove the glue including hand-held scrappers and a black pad fitted to a buffing machine. For the stubborn areas steam was applied to help lift the adhesive out the tile.
Once all the glue was removed the floor was rinsed and the alkaline cleaner neutralised with Tile Doctor Grout Clean Up which further cleaned the tiles and removed old traces of grout from the floor. Old floors like this generally don’t have a damp proof membrane underneath so the acids in the Grout Clean-up also counter any efflorescent salts trapped in the tile.
Once this was completed the slurry was removed with a wet vacuum and left to fully dry out overnight.
The following day focus turned to repairing the areas of the floor where the tiles were missing or broken. The main issue being the cemented areas, we see this a lot with Victorian Hallways and generally what happens is a heating engineer digs out the floor to install pipework. Not being tilers, your average plumber then repairs the floor with a self-levelling cement that brings the level up to the surface of the tile so it can be covered with lino, carpet of in this case cork.
The sub floor was then rebuilt with rapid setting self-levelling compound but this time to below the level of the tile.
Once the new base was dry it was a just a question of re-tiling with the replacement tiles to match the original checkered pattern. The replacement reproduction tiles were sourced from Original Features in Crouch End North London. After grouting we left the floor to dry out over the weekend.
When we returned to seal the floor our first step was to check the floor was dry using a moisture meter. This is critical as the sealant will not cure correctly if there is too much moisture in the floor. In this case the extra two days we had allowed had done its job and the test had confirmed it was ready to accept a sealer.
The client wanted the floor finish not to be too shiny once sealed so we opted to seal with two coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra. This is good choice for old Victorian floors such as this example as it’s special acrylic-based formula allows for moisture vapour transmission which as mentioned previously is a concern where no damp proof membrane has been installed.
I’m please to confirm my clients were delighted with the result, as you can see from the pictures the black and white floor restoration makes for a dramatic entrance well in keeping with the style of the property. For aftercare I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner which will keep the tiles in good condition going forward without damaging the new sealer.
Jackson Davis
Central London Tile Doctor

There are a few reasons why it is critical that your trees have a regular schedule for pruning and maintenance. Pruning helps trees to maintain a tree’s health as well as form it to a pleasing aesthetic shape. Furthermore, pests and diseases are also controlled by regular pruning and care. When pruning is properly performed, your trees will be healthy and attractive all year long. Five Star Tree Services has put together a list of seven things you should keep in mind regarding your tree pruning.
Tree Inspection
Before any tree pruning job, the tree should be properly inspected. This will allow you or our tree care service team to determine which branches should be cut. It will also allow any diseases or pests to be identified and dealt with.
Remove Dead, Weak & Crossed Branches
Dead and weak branches are a hazard to your property and those who happen to walk or lounge under the tree. They also suck vital nutrients away from healthy branches and the tree trunk. Removing them will prevent accidents and allow your tree to thrive. Crossed branches can also cause problems later down the line. They affect the airflow to the crown and can also prevent sunlight from passing through the tree.
Pay Attention to Spacing
It’s important to pay attention to branch spacing when pruning your tree. Lateral branches should be spaced evenly, especially when pruning trees that have yet to mature.
Follow the Basic Pruning Rules
It’s important that the 1/4th and 1/3rd rules of pruning are followed. This means that you should never cut more than a third of the total height of the tree. This length is measured from the bottom up. You should also only cut 1/4th or less of a tree’s crown when you prune at any one time.
Get Your Tools Ready
The tools you use to prune should be ready well before you make the first cut. You should start your project equipped with a pole pruner, pruning saws, hedge shears, loppers, and pruning shears. They also need to be properly sharpened before you start your pruning project. Each of these tools will allow you to reach different parts of the tree and prune them in a safe manner. If your tools are dull, they can damage the tree or even cause accidents when you attempt to cut.
Prune on Schedule
There are schedules for pruning that should be followed according to the type of tree you are caring for. Summer blooming trees should be pruned in early spring while evergreens and hedges should be taken care of in the early part of summer. Fruit-bearing trees should be pruned late in winter ahead of the frost. If there is damage to your tree, it doesn’t matter what time of year it may be, correct the problem as soon as possible.
Avoid Protecting Post-Pruning
Pruning leaves behind wounds, but they will heal. Though they may be unsightly for a while, the marks will heal and return back to its natural beauty. Don’t paint the pruning wounds to protect the tree, it actually has no effect on decay prevention. Painting may even trigger diseases or encourage pests to take up residence.
How We Can Help
Tree pruning is a complication job, but with our tips, you can do it right. It is always a good idea to leave the job to the professionals here at Five Star Tree Services instead. Our Toronto tree care experts have the tools, experience, and skills to get the job done right the first time. Get in touch with us at (416) 990-3355 today for more information.

Bathrooms are no longer just functional spaces; they’re mini sanctuaries where we unwind, reset, and start or end the day. One of the biggest trends driving modern bathroom design is the move towards open, spacious layouts – and at the centre of that look is the wet room shower screen.
At BathroomNation, we’ve helped countless homeowners transform traditional bathrooms into sleek, practical wet rooms using high-quality wet room shower screens. In this blog, we’ll explain what a wet room shower screen is, why it’s such a smart choice, how to plan and style it, and what to look for when choosing the perfect one for your home.
What Is a Wet Room Shower Screen?
A wet room shower screen is a fixed or semi-fixed glass panel designed to separate your shower area from the rest of the bathroom floor, without enclosing it like a traditional cubicle. Instead of a full tray and door, you have:
- A level or gently sloped floor (often fully tiled)
- A walk-in, open shower space
- One or more glass panels providing splash protection
- Small bathrooms that feel cramped
- Rooms with limited or no natural light
- Long, narrow spaces where every inch counts
- Ideal for people with limited mobility
- Safer for older users and children
- More comfortable for everyday use
- Almost invisible glass boundaries
- Minimal metal hardware and framing
- A seamless link between shower and non-shower areas
- Quick to wipe down after a shower
- Simple to clean with standard glass cleaner
- Less prone to discoloured seals and hard-to-reach dirt
- The shower head is positioned sensibly to minimise overspray
- Your bathroom is medium or large in size
- You want an ultra‑open, walk‑in feel
- Extends coverage
- Helps keep more water inside the shower area
- Still keeps the openness of a walk‑in design
- Increase the effective width of protection during showering
- Fold the panel away slightly when not in use to open up the space
- 8mm toughened safety glass as standard
- 10mm toughened glass for an even more solid, premium feel
- Prevent water spots and mineral build-up
- Make daily and weekly cleaning quicker
- Keep your wet room shower screen looking clear and new for longer
- Taller screens (often 1900mm or more) provide better splash control
- Various widths let you create both compact and expansive walk-in areas
- Enhance rigidity and safety
- Are typically mounted at the top, near the ceiling or wall
- Can be designed in finishes that match your brassware (chrome, black, brass, etc.)
- Chrome
- Brushed nickel
- Matt black
- Brushed brass or gold tone
- Where the shower head will be placed (ceiling, wall‑mounted, or both)
- How water will naturally fall and drain
- How much splash you’re comfortable with elsewhere in the room
- The floor needs a gentle, even fall towards the drain
- You can use a central drain or linear (channel) drain
- Waterproofing (tanking) is essential beneath tiles or flooring
- Catch most of the spray from your shower head
- Shield the main walkway and dry areas
- Clear, frameless-style glass panel
- Large-format light grey or stone‑effect tiles
- Wall‑mounted rainfall shower head with matching controls
- Floating vanity and wall-hung toilet
- Wet room shower screen with black profile and support bar
- Concrete or stone-look tiles on floor and walls
- Black rainfall shower and matching mixer valve
- Simple timber stool or bench for warmth
- Ultra-clear glass wet room shower screen
- Natural stone or stone‑effect tiles in warm tones
- Brushed brass shower fittings
- Niche shelving built into the wall for toiletries
- Open, walk-in design
- Easier access, especially for mobility needs
- More airy look, less visual clutter
- Simpler to clean (fewer frames and corners)
- Fully enclosed, more contained water
- Usually involves a tray and door
- Can feel more “boxed in” in smaller rooms

Sponsored
Columbus, OH
Trish Takacs Design
Award Winning & Highly Skilled Kitchen & Bath Designer in Columbus

Tucked away in the backwoods of Torch Lake, this home marries “rustic” with the sleek elegance of modern. The combination of wood, stone and metal textures embrace the charm of a classic farmhouse. Although this is not your average farmhouse. The home is outfitted with a high performing system that seamlessly works with the design and architecture.
The tall ceilings and windows allow ample natural light into the main room. Spire Integrated Systems installed Lutron QS Wireless motorized shades paired with Hartmann & Forbes windowcovers to offer privacy and block harsh light. The custom 18′ windowcover’s woven natural fabric complements the organic esthetics of the room. The shades are artfully concealed in the millwork when not in use.
Spire installed B&W in-ceiling speakers and Sonance invisible in-wall speakers to deliver ambient music that emanates throughout the space with no visual footprint. Spire also installed a Sonance Landscape Audio System so the homeowner can enjoy music outside.
Each system is easily controlled using Savant. Spire personalized the settings to the homeowner’s preference making controlling the home efficient and convenient.

Great glass scallop tile detail. This tile is bordered by slabs of white marble.
Bathroom - modern bathroom idea in Miami
Bathroom - modern bathroom idea in Miami

Staircase - mid-sized traditional wooden u-shaped staircase idea in Minneapolis with wooden risers

Example of a small transitional wooden u-shaped staircase design in Seattle with painted risers

Full-overlay Rustic Beech cabinets in the "Charleston" door style and "Briarwood" finish.
Village Home Stores
Example of a large mountain style kitchen design in Chicago
Example of a large mountain style kitchen design in Chicago

Mid-sized elegant carpeted straight wood railing home design photo in New York with carpeted risers

Self
Inspiration for a small modern wooden straight staircase remodel in Louisville with wooden risers
Inspiration for a small modern wooden straight staircase remodel in Louisville with wooden risers

Beautiful custom runner to match the unique measurements of this staircase.
Small wooden curved staircase photo in Minneapolis with wooden risers
Small wooden curved staircase photo in Minneapolis with wooden risers

Our daily routine begins and ends in the closet, so we believe it should be a place of peace, organization and beauty. When it comes to the custom design of one of the most personal rooms in your home, we want to transform your closet and make space for everything. With an inspired closet design you are able to easily find what you need, take charge of your morning routine, and discover a feeling of harmony to carry you throughout your day.

Grabell Phase 1 – In this phase of the project, we transformed the entire first floor by gutting it down to studs and subfloor. We replaced rotted exterior walls, completely removed all exterior siding and installed vinyl simulated cedar shingle siding. We removed the chimney and installed central AC and gas heat and on demand hot water. We then installed white oak floors, recessed lights, and converted front porch into a mudroom with a coat closet and custom bench. We created a completely redesigned kitchen, living room, bathroom and two bedrooms to complete the first floor.
4



