can they be adjusted do you have a picture you can post

Thanks for your message. Here is a quick photos I just took. The installer adjusted them as much as possible but the gap remain. There must be something that can be done?

Just an extra note: gaps are 3/8 wide. What is the standard for new cabinets? I think 1/4"?

Hinges shoud be 6 way adjustible. You start there first. Posting pictures is essential if you want more accurately targeted information.

Thank you for your message. I took a photo of one of the hinges. Does this look like a six way adjustible?

HI, I Posted photos of the cabinetry and the 6 way adjustible hinges. I think they uploaded. The installer has adjusted the hinges as much as he can. MY fear is that the doors were cut 1/4 " too short. I"m a little depressed. there must be something that can be done. Maybe put a piece just inside somewhere?

Cabinet doors come in many styles. Very hard to advise without no pictures of the doors ? If you can, take a pic of the door closed, and another with the door open. Thx

Hi, I have posted pictures of the doors closed and of the hinges inside. I'm not sure why they aren't visible but I will post them again. Thank you for your response. I hope the photos help.

There are different sizes of backplates available for those hinges. Are you asking about the gap between pairs of doors or adjoining doors?

What I'd like to do is get both the pairs and the adjoining doors with a 1/8" tolerance instead of the 3/8" gap between them. In talking with the installer and craftsman it seems the only way to do this now is to either replace all the doors or the doors on each end and to move everything closer together. It's disheartening.

I'm afraid, You can't have your cake and eat it too, which means, you may be able to close the gap between the pairs of doors, but at the expense of increasing the gap between adjoining doors. Agreeing with cancork, the doors were made to look this way

Yes, if I want the gaps closed I will need new doors. I realize that now.

Could you not put a strip wide enough to close the gap behind on door for each pair made out of the same material and color as your cabinets? A lip, so to speak.

That was a type o.
I meant... put a strip on the back of one of the doors so when closed you would not see the empty space.

Thanks for the idea..I am going to suggest that to the cabinet maker!

Dust strips are a HUGE PIA! You have to close the door without it first, always. And they get banged up because that doesn't always happen. It's adding a big problem to an installation with only a perceived problem. The real answer is to get used to what you have. There is nothing wrong here to try to fix.

I really had my heart set on the clean lines of the European look where cabinetry almost disappears because the doors are so tight. Guess I have a decision to make.

cdanca, I feel your pain and completely understand, especially when you are having them done yourself. You have a clear picture in your mind of what you want and it is so disappointing when it doesn't turn out that way. We have built two houses and found that the contractor/builder or decorator "pros", sometimes try and get you to eat their mistakes and try and live with them. It will bother you every time you pass by them unless you get them to remedy it to something you can live with. I hope you get some satisfactory solution!

Thank you for your message. I had a meeting with the cabinetmaker and we may have a plan. He suggested we may be able to change out doors on each end of the wall plus the two in the middle and then adjust everything over to make the tolerance 1/8". The question now is who will pay for the doors. I'd like the cabinet company to participate and will be asking for a credit of some type. You are right, unless I get this resolved it's going to bother me every time I look at them. I try for perfection; I know it's unrealistic but I "settle" for what I think is right. I'm going to take some photos in the morning and post them. The counter top is wonderful! Also the hardware (Italian Art Deco made in Italy) is fabulous. It will all come together because I won't let up until it's right.

cdanca, that sounds like a wonderful solution! Hopefully he will at least meet you half way. At least you won't have to regret not making the change every time you are in the kitchen, which is most of the time! :-)

cdanca, I have the EXACT same problem with my kitchen remodel and the doors are up. Was your plan above successful?

I get it, I'm not impressed too with my cupboards, they have too much space and one of them is bothering me too much because I can see the shelf inside. I'm going to make him do another cabinet door to fit tighter. It's too frustrating! I should of got Ikea to install them and not have them made.

Just saw this because I have a similar problem. First make sure you purchase the correct hinges that allow the doors to cover the correct area. I did but still had this issue between two doors without a stile between them.

My solution was to add a couple of washers behind the main screw. This would push the door further away from the frame and as a result slide the door closer to the center. Attached is a picture of your hinge with what looks like the main screws circled. Maybe this will help others with this issue.

mikeatx, I like your solution in adding washers behind the main screws of the mounting plate to make the gap between doors smaller. Would you let me know what size washer you used?

Washers are not the fix. They make different thickness of mounting plates for this problem. Gap should be 3/32" a lettuce less than and 1/8" but I've seen bigger even of high-end cabinets.

I want to let people know that if you have the IKEA IVAR cabinet door hardware, @mikeatx solution of using washers work like a charm. I actually had to double stack the washers and still adjust the horizontal screw to the max in order to get the two doors to meet perfectly, but it does work.

If you really need to shim the hinges out glue a thin strip of wood to the inside of the cabinet the full width of the hinge and top to bottom (width of the hinge is required mechanically, top to bottom for appearance sake and, in the case of MDF, stability). Washers will reduce the stability of the hinge when it swings, especially if you stack them more than one high.

My solution is to use velcro or magnetic strips to stick a piece of trim in as an artificial stile. There needs to be a lip top and bottom to which to attach the magnets. Small metal plate (or even just a short magnetic screw) to magnet (or the velcro but I feel the magnets are more sanitary and easier to keep even).

The Ivar cabinets do gap significantly but I'd go with the strip of wood to shim the hinges out even in real wood. Ivar is at least real wood, but in typical cabinets that are built out of MDF, shimming the hinges out with washers will allow more movement of the screws in the MDF which will lead to the screws pulling out. MDF does not hold. Wood does. Be careful of creating a gap along the hinges as you close up the one between the door edges. You might need slightly longer screws to account for the additional thickness of the shim.

I actually prefer the stile-less opening but the gap that inevitably creates can seem annoying. If you need full access you just pop the trim out (I use small thin blocks on either side top and bottom as guides to get it back in straight) and you're golden. Especially useful in a sink base. The magnetic strip/velcro sets your faux stile just far enough back that you're not going to accidentally knock it off when you close the door, but cuts way down on dust getting into the cabinet and hides the gap from the outside.

In a lipless cabinet you could use an angle bracket screwed into the bottom and attach the faux stile from the front (with the magnet on the back of the faux style). Even in a sink base this should work if there is enough room at the top to attach an angle bracket up top, which there should be (one top, one bottom). But I feel having an angle bracket sticking up in the middle of your sink's floor is an issue I would want to avoid (when the stile is out, when its in you can't see it, of course). Shimming the hinges out would probably be more acceptable to me then, LOL!