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gail_recker

Alternate for cherry wood cabinets?

11 years ago
I like the look of cherry wood cabinets but am wondering if there are some less expensive wood species that we can explore that look similar to cherry when stained to help keep costs down during our kitchen remodel.

Comments (21)

  • PRO
    11 years ago
    You can use any stain grade wood facing and stain it Cherry. This is the most common route taken. If you were to use actual Cherry wood you would not stain, but rather use a polyurethane or lacquer finish that would bring out the natural color of the wood. Pine or Oak is common.
    Gail Recker thanked ROGUE architecture, LLC
  • 11 years ago
    Thanks -- I like the grain of cherry vs. the pine or oak so looking for something similar. Have been told maple or alder are options -- not sure if there is anything else out there to consider? Appreciate your input.
  • 11 years ago
    If you like cherry, then you should just get cherry. The thing is that any other wood (poplar for example), could be stained, but you need someone who knows what s/he is doing to get the stain right,,so you spend money there. There won't be much savings. Are you on the West Coast? Usually there the cherry is more expensive
    Gail Recker thanked printesa
  • 11 years ago
    Midwest -- thanks!
  • 11 years ago
    I'm assuming you are trying to get this from a cabinet shop. Did you get a quote from a local shop or from a big supplier? A local shop might be willing to give you discount
    Gail Recker thanked printesa
  • 11 years ago
    rough estimate for kitchen remodel (all inclusive services) including cherry cabinets
  • 11 years ago
    Cherry isn't that big of an upcharge 15-20%, similar to choosing paint. Out of an average 20K worth of cabinets, only 3-4K will be for the cherry. You'll spend just as much on a compound crown, or glass doors, or integrated decorative door ends.
    Gail Recker thanked User
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    15-20% is a huge increase in cost, Sophie. Especially for a relatively small project like a kitchen.
    Gail, Maple is a good choice and can be stained just about any color finish you choose. I'd caution you away from "all-inclusive" services. Usually they are only interested in selling you products that they represent (commission) which may not a) be in your budget or b) necessarily be what you need for your project. I'd suggest finding a local architect or kitchen designer to design what you need and help you find the right products and finishes for your budget and taste.
    Best of luck.
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago
    Birch is a good substitute or even soft maple. If you don't mind using a softer wood, alder has a similar grain and pinkish color.
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    Alder... was used so frequently in situations like this it became referred to as "poor man's cherry", (although not with the intention of disparaging anyone who used it).
    Not as hard as cherry, (which isn't that hard to begin with), but it stains up well if you're looking for similar grain & color similarity to cherry, so it's a good place to start.
  • 11 years ago
    I wouldn't choose maple if you want to have stained. It doesn't stain well, especially the soft one
    Gail Recker thanked printesa
  • 11 years ago
    Thanks for the explanation and the hierarchy of wood species. This helps me dissect our wants vs. the cost for the "extras". It is all so overwhelming! :)
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    Different makers have different price structures and, depending on how the upcharge is applied, cherry may end up increasing the cost by 10% or less. Remember that the interiors of the cabinets are not cherry. With that in mind, I encourage my clients to purchase what they really want since they will be living with it intimately for a some time.
    Whether you can apply a satisfactory stain to a lesser wood depends on the quality of the wood and the formula of the stain. In general pine, poplar, and birch can take light stains well but darker stains will be uneven. Good quality alder and maple can often be stained dark successfully, but the stain may need to be sprayed on rather than rubbed to get an even finish.
    There is also the matter of grain. Cherry is the king of grains as far as domestic hardwoods are concerned. There's nothing like it for a pleasing pattern. Maple is the closest match. Alder is closer in color to cherry but it has less grain and sometimes includes knots. Birch is a very quiet wood and can be spray stained any color but you won't see much grain and I would only recommend pine for a very rustic look since it is so soft and knotty.
    Gail Recker thanked Design Details
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago
    Oh, I forgot oak. I tear out far more oak than I install but I see an increasing use of straight grained oak which doesn't have the look of an ash baseball bat. It's great for a smooth textured look and takes stain beautifully. I use it as a veneer on a flat door for a refined modern look, though it's about the same price as cherry
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    Some misleading info here. Stay away from Poplar. It is unstable and you may end up with twisted doors. Alder "OK" but soft. Soft Maple has inconsistent color and grey streaks. Hard maple is good but the finish is all about the finisher. A inexperienced finisher (including factory finishes) can be blotchy. Cherry can also become blotchy like Maple if the finisher doesn't have the necessary experience. Most factories use toner (tinted finish) to coat their cabinets. This is like very thinly pigmented paint and covers up the grain.

    As far as hardness goes (Janka hardness scale in pounds-force)

    White Pine 380
    Alder 590
    Soft Maple 700
    Cherry 950
    Hard Maple 1450
    Gail Recker thanked Al Fortunato Furnituremaker
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    One other point about Cherry.

    Natural Cherry color is not the Mahogany color commonly seen everyplace. The natural unfinished wood is pinkish. Clear coat finishing techniques will change it to somewhat of an amber color (depending on the finish) which will age and gain a beautiful patina. Most people thing of cherry of being the dark red color which is fake.

    If the dark red Mahogany like color is what you are looking for, maybe a substitute wood is better for you.

    I have tables in my house that I made 30+ years ago with a natural finish on them. They have aged and gained a great patina over the years.
    Gail Recker thanked Al Fortunato Furnituremaker
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago
    Al, only lower quality makers use toners to even out the heart and sap on cherry. Any decent cabinet maker, or manufacturer, who produces a true mid grade to high grade product, will have a much more involved process to stain cherry. As I'm sure you know. :)

    Once you get to a mid grade production process, the boxes and hardware all all going to be sufficient to be durable for many years. It's the quality of the face frames and doors that separate the men from the boys from there on up. A better looking and feeling finish is what you're mostly paying for as the price climbs. Select heart cherry, matched for grain, and finished for a furniture quality piece can easily be 20x what an entry level line with a toner to even things out will be.

    The good thing is, there's a niche for everyone on the scale between entry level and heirloom custom. You just have to find where your budget fits in first, and then decide what tradeoffs that you can live with. No one gets 100% of everything that they want unless they have an unlimited budget!

    And that is why it is important to work with a good KD so that you understand those tradeoffs better, and you get the most that your particular budget can afford.
    Gail Recker thanked User
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    Yes ProSource, I agree with what you said, although I have seen very expensive (not necessarily high quality) cabinets with toner on them. Using the toner not only to even out the color variations, but fake a wood species. I have also seen cherry and maple cabinets where toner was not used and the stain was terribly blotchy. And I'm not saying these all came from factories.

    The most important thing you said is "it is important to work with a good KD". Not only for the quality of the cabinets themselves, but the layout too.
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago
    @Al, I have a minor disagreement with you on soft maple. I can get excellent soft maple from my Ohio supplier; in fact, I ordered some PAINT GRADE panels one time that were so nice looking I hated to see them painted.
  • PRO
    11 years ago
    @River, I agree that there is good soft maple out there. In my area when you say soft maple, you don't necessarily get the nice creamy stuff. Need to specify it and/or hand pick it.