I modified this reply I left recently on another forum to better fit your query:

For seeds to germinate, they often need to go through stratification (a period of chill) and/or scarification. Stratification goes to endogenous dormancy while scarification goes to external dormancy.

Seeds have two dormancy mechanisms. One is endogenous or internal dormancy & is a function of physiological activity (or inactivity). The other is an external dormancy as a result of the seed coat being varyingly impermeable to gasses and water. These seeds will not germinate until protection of the seed coat is physically breeched. Breaking, scratching, or mechanically altering the seed coat to make it permeable to water and gasses is what we refer to as scarification. In nature, this often occurs in fall seeding. Freezing temperatures or microbial activities modify the seed coat during the winter, or scarification can occur as seeds pass through the digestive tract of animals.

Growers often scarify seeds by soaking them in fairly concentrated sulfuric acid (honest) for times that vary by species. Vinegar is a weak organic acid, and a safer (but less effective treatment) and can be used for species that do not have an extremely hard seed coat; the technique would be the same as with sulfuric acid, but a longer soak.

Mechanical methods might include filing with a metal file, sandpaper, nicking, or even cracking via a gentle smack with a hammer. Hot water scarification is also often handy for many species - some pines even need to be exposed to flame or intense heat to insure germination.

Here is a starting point for you. The rest of the research is up to you, unless others know specifically what method(s) you might employ to hasten germination.

Al

To my knowledge, the most inclusive treatise regarding seed germination is:

C.C. Baskin, and J.M. Baskin 2001. Seeds: ecology, biogeography, and evolution of dormancy and germination. Academic Press, New York.

The Baskins are seed specialists and their book is unparalleled. While they do not address germination in Juniperus deppeana, they do have germination recommendations such as stratification length, temperatures, etc. for several Juniperus species. Their experimentation regarding seed dormancy is too extensive to list in this forum, thus, I highly recommend you obtain a copy of their book. The depth of seed research in this excellent volume is nothing short of astounding.

Ron

I germinated seeds by putting them in a coffee cup and pouring hot, not boiling water over them and let them soak in the hot water for 24-48 hours. I have read that some seeds need the boiling water to speed this process up. Then after that I put them in a container with wet/damp sand and refridgrated them for 2 months. Then I set them out in the sun keeping the sand moist. After one week out of the fridge, I have 2 of the 40 seeds sprouting.
I would guess that some seeds need the boiling water. The reason why, there are a few species of pine that will only grow in burnt forests, so the seed starts to grow when extream heat is applied. I think the boiling water will simulate this step. Give the boiling water a try on 1/3 of the seeds, try a few other methods on the other 2/3 and let us know wich one works best. The worst that happens is you kill the seeds and need to try again.

True, very true.

I put temperate seed (elm, oak, pecan, zelkova, maple,... )in sand in coffee cans and sit them outside over the winter on the north side of my greenhouse. A "hot boil" treatment is unnecessary with these. Pine gets a hot bath before hitting the sand.

Tropical seed are treated different. I bring water to a boil in the microwave, allow it to cool for about 10 seconds, then drop in the seed.

randy

Is the cold stratification necessary? And, will I be able to germinate my alligator juniper by April? I have already sanded the shell and boiled them for 6 seconds.

I'm not sure if you can. If it is possible, see if you will be can try a different tree for your club. I germinated some maples in about a week. Just go outside and look under a maple tree to find some that have a little root growing out of the bottom. Why do you have to grow them and why the deadline?

I have to grow them because of the club and i have a deadile because i told my princible that i would start it the first mon. in April.

This is going to be close... Try the different methods mentoned above, Id skip the cold period in the fridge. See what you get. Keep us posted too...

If you have a deadline to have material to work on, I would bypass the seedlings (for now, you can still germinate them and put them aside for use in a few years) and go straight to nursery material. I'm not trying to encourage spending, but rather to be realistic about timelines.

Try local nurseries and see if they'll sponsor you by either donating or reducing the price of smaller shrubs. Either have a letter from your principal on hand (on school letterhead) or a phone number available so that you can prove that they are needed (or desired) for a school activity. Try looking at hedging material which is often very cheap and fast-growing as well.

If money is still an issue, then there could be a small fee ($5 to $10, maybe) to help offset costs (which would be mainly plants at this point). Although this may discourage a few members, it will also help weed out (pun not really intended) those who would have trouble being committed.

Remember, you're dealing with kids/teens, so they won't have much patience in waitng for seedlings to grow to a workable size. Also remember that frustration can easily set in as well, so you have to have something that they get involved in right away.

-Audric