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greendale63

amaryllis/keep or trash?

21 years ago

Can't find a previous post regarding amaryllis and a red colored virus(don't know the name!)Vaguely remember something about hot water killing the virus, as no one knew of any spray to use..my question is this - am I better off just trashing them and buying new ones(oh darn I'd just hate that!!) or trying to cure them. They are just your regular variety, but I like them and they are multiplying in the pot...I just hate to trash them if there is any way to remedy this. Did anyone else have this problem and know what I should do?

It would be great if we had a site especially for these beauties...and yes, I did vote!!! What more do we have to do...

Comments (8)

  • 21 years ago

    The name of your virus is Steneotarsonemus laticeps
    This is an extraordinary kind of virus: It can, just imagine, crawl; isn't that funny *ggg*.
    a rather common name for this pest, pardon... disease is bulb scale mite.
    Under wet conditions (outdoors) the lesions are superinfected with the fungus Stagonospora curtisii which causes the well known red blotch.

    If you take your plants OUTDOORS you can legally (in Germany) treat them with preparations of the systemic insecticidal & acaricidal phosphorous organics:
    Dimethoate
    or Oxydemeton-methyl
    which should be sprayed thoroughly into the plant heart thus accessing all leaf bases - that is important.
    using the 2-fold concentration as compared to the recommended because the uptake of systemic agents from the bulb scales is rather unsatisfying due to their low metabolism.

    Before you do so you remove all dry parts and outer already reddished sick bulb scale material. Take all loose matter away from the substrate surface. After spraying with the watery solution of these acaricides let the soil surface dry some days (I hope that you water from the bottom solely) and then complete the action by spraying the outer bulb and soil surface with a good insect spray (contagious poison) for example containing propoxur and synthetic pyrethroides. These spraying procedures should be repeated after 2 weeks.

    Buying new bulbs might not solve the problem, as bulbs are with "some" probability already infected. If you have the opportunity to carefully inspect bulbs for sale you might even be able to confirm what I am saying. I experienced all the bulbs from The Netherland's provenience to be infected with these tarsonemid mites.

    Furthermore be aware that:
    once mite - forever mite
    That means that you can not eradicate these critters with the above detailed medials completely.
    There always remains a certain stock of these animals in the root space.
    You can obtain clean bulbs solely by hot water treatment (46°Celsius 2 h) which can only be achieved with sophisticated technical or laboratory equipment.

    Hans-Werner

  • 21 years ago

    Thanks for the info Hans...I'm not familiar with the systemics mentioned..is this available under a more common name? or just the dimethoate or oxydemeton-methyl?

    Can this virus transfer to other bulb type plants or my numerous other plants? or does it confine itself to just the amaryllis?

    Do you think that neem would be of interim use while I try to find the other sprays mentioned?

    I never heard of this virus before and am shocked to hear that most of the bulbs have it..this means that if I decide to purchase new bulbs the same thing will happen. These particular bulbs were indoors when I noticed the red blotch and I have had the bulbs for 3 years..BUT I did purchase bulbs 'on clearance' this past winter and I suppose that this is where the virus originated.

    Thanks again for your quick reply..I'm going to try to save these - I had already thrown out the 'clearance' bulbs...will just have to purchase new ones!

  • 21 years ago

    This ...MITE can infect all other amaryllid bulbs.
    I experienced transmission on Crinum, Cyrtanthus, Eucharis, Nerine, Sprekelia, then also
    on Miltonia (an Orchid)
    but on dicotyledons, too; on
    Dahlia and Solanum (egg plant).

    I have had bitter experiences with this little animal and lost a collection of hippeastrums including first floweriing seedlings when I was 19.

    Dimethoate is in Rogor, Roxion, Perfecthion, Bi-58
    Oxydemeton-Methyl is in Metasystox (Bayer).

    Hans-Werner

  • 21 years ago

    ...now I'm concerned about my orchids...certainly don't want to lose them too!!! Never had this problem until I bought those 'clearance' bulbs...not so much of a deal now are they??!! Thanks again for the info...

  • 21 years ago

    Can you give a better description of the symptoms? Is it on the leaves or just the bulb?

  • 21 years ago

    Yes I am fully aware that photographic documentation is essential.
    Although this is such a... simply disgusting work.
    In short:
    I have very little material only
    one photo of definite validity expressiveness is to come soon.

    Hans-Werner

  • 20 years ago

    i tranfered 1 year old amaryllis to 5 large trays, unfortunate i have enought peat moss for 4 trays, i lurk around and found extra container plant which give me enough peat moss for the fifth tray. Here come the problem, the fifth tray is now infected some sort of red blot! every day i pull out a rotten young bulbs! i seperated that infected one from the rest,(i will trash them sometime soon to prevent further more complication!) and realized the extra container peat moss i used was an ex-Asianatic lily container :-)! what a bummer, i glad that i still have 4 tray letf to recoup- and the valuable lesson was, DO NOT USE USED GROW MEDIUM FOR AMARYLLIS BABY!

  • 20 years ago

    For what it's worth, there is an amaryllis forum here and has been for a long time. You might check over there for posts on this subject.

    Janet's Garden

    Here is a link that might be useful: Amaryllis forum

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