Normally you want to make transplanting as stress-FREE as possible to insure survival of the plant. They get enough stress from cold soil temps, root damage in the process, and full sun exposure. Dead plants don't produce. ;)

Plus plants need to first develop sufficient roots, stems, and leaves to support blooming, fruit set, and fruit development. They have to crawl before they can run. So trying to rush it can lead to BER in fruit, fruit abortion, and even plant death.

Dave

I would think that you would actually want to do the opposite and induce rapid foilage and root growth so that it can support the fruit. After I transplant my peppers I pull off all the buds on every single plant and hit them with some high nitrogen(38-5-5)after about 3 weeks I hit them with a high phosphorus fert (10-54-10). Now I do not know much about ferts but this sure works for me.

Dale

Yes good point Dale. The idea I have is to transplant late, after about 3 months. While growing indoors I'll use nitrogen rich fertilizer to increase foliage growth. When I transplant I'll use a phosphorous rich fert to encourage rooting and some nitrogen through compost all around the transplanted soil to also encourage rooting and some additional foliar growth. A few weeks later I'll start fertilizing with potassium heavy fert to encourage fruit set. Would be interested in hearing peoples opinions on this approach.

This may be helpful.

Dale

Nitrogen (N) Phosphorous (P) & Potassium (K)

The first number you see distinguishes the amount of nitrogen (N) your fertilizer contains. Nitrogen promotes vegetative growth; makes bushes leaf out and grass to grow. Consider a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 25-4-2. By volume this means it would have 25% nitrogen, 4% phosphorous, and 2% potassium. When nitrogen is the prominent product always think: Green Growth

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The second number is phosphorous (P). It promotes root growth and stimulates bud development. If you are trying to get your plants to bloom or you need to stimulate root growth a formula such as 3-20-3 would be appropriate. When phosphorous is the prominent product think: Roots & Blooms

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Potassium (K), the third number, increases plant vigor, which makes a healthier plant. A healthy plant is less susceptible to contract diseases. It also helps fruiting. When potassium is the prominent product think: Overall Plant Health, Fruit Production

Thanks pod. So what do people think of the idea of fertilizing regularly with lots of nitrogen rich fert to prevent flowering before transplanting. Then switching to phosphorous rich fert for root development and flowering after transplanting. Would I be able to grow these plants for up to 4 months indoors using this approach?

To much is worse than none at all. Whatever you do, do not over fertilize. It actually takes quite some time for the plant to use up ferts. A lot depends on how you water and how much you water. If you are bottom watering your indoor plants than the ferts will stay in the soil longer but if you are watering from the top and the water runs out of the bottom then along with that water goes the ferts. to much nitrogen will burn your plants up and also attract certain pests such as aphids. Remember also that diff. ferts. act differently, so be careful.

Ok, I am guessing that your point with all this is to extend your limited growing season for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and related, correct? If not, just ignore all that follows. ;)

If so, there are much better, well-established ways to do that than by delaying transplanting for 3-4 months and artificially force feeding, both of which are inclined to cause multiple problems for the plant.

As thepodpiper already said, excessive and inappropriate use of fertilizers be they organic or chemical is very problematic. With fertilizers the "less is more" philosophy applies. EX: in tomatoes and peppers high levels of N causes blossom drop, BER, and low production for starts.

Delayed transplanting of large blooming plants also is problematic as already explained above. They do NOT tolerate well being transplanted at a 3 month old size and since transplanting normally sets any plant back a couple of weeks it would defeat your purpose.

So if season extension is the goal behind your question then why not approach it from that vantage point? Members of the solanceae family require warm soil (70 degrees) before transplanting or they just sit there and sulk or die so explore the many ways of early season soil-warming. They also best tolerate transplanting as 6-9" in height, in a non-blooming condition, and into soil with a balanced level of nutrients that are slightly lower in N than in P and K.

In your zone this will mean planting under protection so explore your options for cold frames, cloches, poly tunnels, etc. all of which will not only warm the soil but create the needed warmth and protection the plants need and so "fool" them into thinking it is their ideal growing/blooming time.

If that is your goal, then check out the many discussions here on cold frames and poly tunnels - many use them with great success - and you'll be much happier with the end result.

Hope this helps.

Dave

Very well put Dave.

Dale