I use an herbal wormer made from wormwood that I bought from Hoegger's Goat Supply. I like it because there is no milk withdrawal time needed like there is with the horse wormer's that some people use. I have had to treat goats for coccidia and my understanding is it is always present in their system until something stresses them or changes drastically to upset them and then the coccidia overload their system and they get diarrhea and feel rather punk. They can pick it up from another goat as well and start the process all over again. My goat got it when we took it to state fair one year and it was really hot and she got stressed. I treated her with something the vet gave me. The herbal wormer is sprinkled on their food for about a week. The wormer doesn't cure coccidia though. They don't seem to mind the taste of it as it smells rather like sage. We live in a dry area and I only worm once a year, but I understand if you live in a humid, hot climate, and they are on pasture a lot, that some people have to worm every two months or so and they have to rotate the type of wormer they use because the parasites get tolerant to it. You might ask your vet how soon you can bring in a new companion for your goat. Good luck with your goat.

Bonnie

Yes Coccidia oocysts are always in the system, and become a problem when the oocysts overwhelm the host's system in as little as 3 days.

Clean the area & dry it out. Coccicia multiplies in moist environments. clean & dry the area out and you'll have no more infections-this includes feed containers in addition to the flooring/sleeping areas.

Worming medications are not the same as coccidia medications. Completely different family. If your medicated feed contains a coccidiastat, it should help with the coccidia issue, IF, IF the goat eats the proper amount. We just use a sulfa- DiMethox- and give orally for 5 days if we suspect a problem(diarhea), this way we know exactly how much they ingested. Keepin areas clean & dry has worked great for us. Coccidia has often been called a man-made disease due to confinement methods.

Your new goat can come home anytime-as long as the area has dried out. If it's from the same breeder, I'd start the DiMethox immediately for 5 days, you wouldn't want a repeat of the little doeling. Repeat treatment as per the instructions on the bottle (every few weeks, I think it is).

We're not big on the herbal wormers here, so can't help there. Ivermec orally 1 to 2x a year as needed & rotating pastures works well in our area.
Brendasue

Use liquid probiotics (Puritan.com get item #0875). Give 1 ounce (2 Tablespoons) per day until gone. These helpful bacteria will naturally balance the digestive tract and will control the internal populations of 'bad' bacteria/virus. You also can get a powered products that is added to (sprinkled on) their feed from any good feed stores. Using probiotics regulary prevents many digestive track illness in all animals. This is the reason young pups eat their mothers poo.

After any medication use it is important to replace the helpful bacteria killed by the treatment so proper digestive balance is restored.

With the use of so many chemicals in farming and our everyday lives these helpful bacteria are not in adequate numbers in the soil thus not on and in the plants that grazing animals eat.

Do some Internet research on Probiotics and you'll become a believer.

I learned the hard way that Coccidia is not always a wet environment problem. After a two year severe drought with dust flying everywhere I lost several bucklings to coccidia because I never thought to test for it. The primary way of exposure is from the ground and it's always there. Stress is a contributing factor for anything that overwhelms the immune system. If it's wet and the kids nurse on moms with dirty udders they will get it that way. It is usually seen about the time they start nibbling at feed. DiMethox or Corrid are two acceptable coccidiastats to use. Wormer of any kind will not work. As for herbal wormers the best are Sericia Lespadeza if available and cedar trees work well too. Wormwood herbal blends will work but if you run a large herd like I do (130 +/- in several different mobs) it becomes laborsome to worm them that way because they have to be treated on a regular basis. Cedar will make the milk taste so don't use that if your are milking. Keeping them browsing instead of grazing and rotating pastures if you do pasture them works best. I also use to rotate wormers when I had to use them but the professionals are now advising against that. They say that the parasites become immune to them all. They are now advising to use one type until it is no longer effective and then switch. A change from how I've been farming for 25 years. But with the new drugs they use could be. Famacha readings (only works on barberpole worms) and fecal testing to keep resistant stock in your herd is the best bet. Using rotational paddocks if possible and not grazing down below 6" is a big help. Also I have a dry lot. When I do worm with any commercial wormer I put them in the dry lot for 3 days, keeping them from grazing by using high quality hay and then put them in a new paddock. This keeps the majority of your parasite eggs in an confined area. And putting a cow in after works great as a vaccum cleaner for the parasites because cattle are resistant to parasites that bother goats the most. Hope this helps a little.