At this point you are not even sure if this tree is seedling or a grafted variety. If it's a seedling you'll need to graft on another or other types unless you are extremely fortunate.

By caring for the tree for a season you can find out if the fruit's worthwhile- 2 sprays, 1 at petal fall and 1 10 to 14 days later with Imidan or 3 on a tighter schedule with Sevin may be enough to adequately protect your fruit from insects.

This winter you can look at some trees in a commercial orchard to get some sense of how much space is needed between branches- or go on line for some kind of visual information. Than you can aggressively thin branches to increse access to air and light.

If the apples turn out to be worthless, the pruning will at least inspire vigorous new wood for sites to graft new varieties next season.

In my lifetime I have brought literally thousands of neglected apple trees back into production. It can be a very satisfying endeavor.

Thanks Harvestman, If I need to make a graft which type of apple would be best for a beginner to try? I have never done this before. Also, I do not know how long it would take a graft to become productive or how many grafts I can make each season to not damage the original tree. Do you know where I can buy a shoot to graft?

If the tree is growing vigorously you can begin to get fruit in as few as 2 years and completely turn the tree over in about 5 with lots of fruit before that. Definately quicker than starting from scratch.

Check past postings on this site for tips on pruning. On old trees I get the quickest transformation by butchering well sun exposed branches (cutting to 2" diameter stubs) and either cleft grafting or letting the tree send up vigorous shoots from those cuts and grafting them. The second is easiest and the grafts will probably grow so much faster than the clefts that you won't lose time.

These shoots are called water sprouts and after they've grown for a couple years after grafting you tie them to a more horizontal position (say 65 degrees) with string.

Hi Robert-

You may want to post some pictures of the tree. Sometimes, it's not worth it to save these old trees due to problems that the experts here might point out. Even though there may be no leaves now, it's good to see the structure of the tree.

Also, search this site for "bagging" apples. That what I did last season, and plan to do again this season. Maybe people are finding success with that.

I would also look at spraying a dormant horticultural oil spray at some point in late winter when it's warm enough. It's easy, organic, and you will take care of at least a few of your insects.

Good luck,
-Glenn

Nothing that is killed by oil is eating your apples that I can think of. It helps with scale, mites (which can sometimes damage apples but usually only after you start to prune them) and a bit with aphids. Plum curculio is almost certainly your primary nemesis and they are unaffected by oil. Oil is useful but not without environmental problems- it does kill indescriminately anyting it smothers.

Thanks to all, I have saved all of this into a tree folder and printed it out. I will try to post a picture of the tree Monday afternoon.

I meant to say that you should look at past posts about grafting although posts about pruning would also be helpful. There is a book called "Ecological Fruit Production in the North" by Hall-Beyer and Richard that has a very useful chapter on restoring old apple trees. You might want to look for that or join NAFEX and check it out from their library.

I could not load the photo. I will look at the grafting post and just ordered "Ecological Fruit Production in the North" online. Thanks for the help.