I'd cut 80% off the top of the tree between the three posts right now. In a colder zone I might wait a couple months.

You might get away with no pruning because you are planting at an optimum date. But the tree would struggle to support all that top especially in dry weather. I'd rather cut back heavily and get vigorous new growth. That approach can give a good crop on stone fruit in year two, all you can hope for.

I'd hack the top off every tree at about 3 feet high. This will develop a much stronger tree, rather than the tree becoming stunted or dying while trying to support more leaves and bud growth than can really handle with the pruned roots. The size of the top of the tree should approximately match its roots. Not to mention that a ton of roots get damaged or pruned off when a tree is uprooted and stored in bare root form. Lopping the top off the tree restores the proper balance.

Balancing root to top is supposed to be an obsolete concept in that wood stores energy and a tree only sends out the leaves the roots can support but the stored energy can help generate new roots.

That's the story research seems to tell, but in the real world fruit trees are usually cut back drastically, partially for training purposes. Sometimes nurseries won't guarantee trees that haven't been cut way back and I've had nurserymen speak of huge commercial plantings of pear trees left unpruned at planting time dying because of excessive wood left on trees after transplant. Never seen any research that confirms this result, however.

I remove all limbs more than about a third diameter of the trunk at transplant time- leaving a stub if a branch is eventually needed at the locations of a removed over-sized limb. However, if you want a low-spreading tree it may be worthwhile to cut it down to under three feet immediately. I like a high trunk so I can attach squirrel and coon baffles.

I thank everybody for there help and knowledge.I have already cut back.Thank you veary much