I see lots of suckers at the ground level, esp on the middle tree. I think you want to get rid of them and eliminate few suckers in the crown -- to create better air circulation. Esp considering how close they are to each other and to the fence

Oh those are raspberry canes trying to take over from the other side of the fence. They were not all that productive last year. I may as well rip them out. Thanks

I can only see the front tree well. Based on what I think I see, it looks like there is too great a density of limbs. Remember the "prune so a bird can fly through it" idea. It looks like you are going for an open vase there so I would remove some of the more internal scaffolds. Some of the next higher branching points also probably need thinning.

Hopefully harvestman will catch this post, he is the pro (literally) on this issue.

Scott

Thinning cuts are needed and not heading cuts!

Then there's the diameter issue. Best if scaffolds (branches that will create trees framework that are attached to the trunk) are not more than 1/3rd the diameter of the trunk at point of attachment. More than a half and you're looking for trouble.

Three, or at most four, scaffolds per tier- four per tier is usually the right amount after the first tier. 3 to 4 feet between tiers.

Make sure the scaffold branch has a central leader (much like the trunk) and branches are 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the scaffold where they attach (preferably 1/3). Remove all over size branches.

I agree with the assertion that it is too dense in the crown.

As harvestman has explained, one option is to go with a central leader system. But it looks like, as Scott mentioned, that you may be going for an open vase, or at least the tree in the foreground, as it has been pruned to this point, looks to easily conform to that shape. Open vase may also be better to keep the tree short, as is your intention, though you can also easily keep a central leader tree under 10 feet. Consider removing the most central of the main scaffolds to open up the center and then spread the more vertical oriented remaining arms with tie downs or attached weights. In this system the main scaffolds are permanent much as the central leader is permanent in the central leader system.

If you decide to keep those oversized branches and follow CW's sound advice, limit your scaffolds to 3 per tree, or probably just 2 if the fence is going to cut off that side of growth.

Make sure that all wood coming off the scaffolds start as the shoots without too much vigor. Do this by following the ratio rule I already suggested for choosing scaffolds but apply it to wood off the scaffolds in relationship to the scaffolds. Small wood is where fruit forms and the structure you're making leaves no room for secondary and tertiery wood to be well lit. The idea is to have the maximum amount of small wood and minimum of big wood.