Ok, so the best I could come up with is 5-10-5. most of the sources I checked just says a simple 10-10-10 is fine, but a couple mention that Phosphorous is helpful for larger berries, and suggest 5-10-5. An old Henry Fields manual I have also suggests the 5-10-5. So I'll probably go with a 1-1-1 ratio, with maybe a little extra Phosphorous.

You should have fertilized last september or october, right after renovation. If you fertilize now you berries well be soft. good luck JOHN

Well.....I followed all the instructions, and fertilized last spring when I planted them. I started with good rich soil. There was no crop last year. The instructions said to pinch the blossoms the first year through June, to establish the plants. Which I did. There were no blossoms after that, even though they were supposed to be Ozark Beauty everbearing. The plants did grow very well last year, and they shot lots of runners, which I pruned, also per instructions. I never saw anything about renovating them last year or fertilizing in the fall. I was planning on renovating this year after the crop. The good news is that the crowns are really big now. All the instructions I've researched say to fertilize in the spring every year, which I was planning to do. On a side note, can I use something like Foliage Pro 9-3-6 as a fertilizer, as well on the foliage?

Here's the instructions for planting and renovating:

Culture: Growing Tips: Mix fertilizer in soil when planting (5-10-5), no additional fertilizer is needed the rest of the year. Pull weeds as they develop and keep soil moist. Mulch between rows to reduce weeds and to hold moisture in the soil. Cover bed with 6" of mulch in late fall after several hard frosts. Rake the mulch off the plants when they turn green in the spring, but don't remove it completely. Leave some between rows over the summer.
Comments: Spring Hill's favorite, popular everbearer is famous for its large yields of bright red, unusually large berries. Ozark Beauty plants set delicious fruit from June through September. Everbearing strawberries deliver fruit all summer, with a large initial harvest and a steady crop the rest of the season. Like Junebearers, they are very easy to grow and will do well most anywhere. Plant both Junebearers and everbearers for a constant supply of fresh fruit. High sugar content. Thrives in any soil. Unusually vigorous plants with a deep root system. Resistant to leaf spot and leaf scorch. Especially good for the north and in southern mountain states.

And for renovating:

Rejuvenation: Renovation is an important part of strawberry care. In order to insure good fruit production, June-bearing strawberries grown in the matted row system should be renovated every year right after harvest. A strawberry patch will continue to be productive for three to four years as long as the planting is maintained. The first step in the renovation process is to mow the old foliage with a mower, cutting off the leaves about one inch above the crowns. Rake the leaves and if disease-free, compost or incorporate into the soil. Fertilize with one pound of a 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Narrow the rows to six to twelve inches wide by spading, hoeing or rototilling. Remove all weeds. Thin the plants in the narrowed row to 4 to 6 inches between plants. Water with one inch of water per week to promote growth and to make new runners for next year's crop.

I never renovated, because I never got a crop, and thought I was just supposed to let them grow the whole first year. Frankly, it's very frustrating that one has to be a Sherlock Holmes just to grow something. I probably should have renovated and fertilized, but who knew! There would have been alot less dead foliage when I removed the mulch. But all the plants look good as long as the recent freezing nights (mid teens) under a tarp haven't damaged them. I had to beg for the instructions that I cut and pasted, as they didn't come with the plants.

Has anyone used or seen the PVC pipe tower?
Made from 4-8 in O.D. pipe, 12-36 inches high with 1.5-2.00 inch holes drilled in with a hole saw. These are for the strawberry plants.
Has anyone heard that tomatoes plant can carry a wilt that will kill strawberry plants?

Here is a link that might be useful: Soft berries

jolj, I tried your link and it didn't work.