Dormant oil smothers the target, so it doesn't matter which, other then price (neem) or anything harmful (like using random oil on hand). There is a place for neem later but now just get something from a reputable brand and/or store that you like.

I just finished by second spray of copper with a sticker. Followed by Horticultural Dormant oil. The former is for PLC on my peaches. I also spray my pears and plums. The apples, apricots and cherries are only hit with dormant oil this time of year. By Easter the third and last spray of Copper will be sprayed. Milehigh, this formula has worked so well for me. Hope it helps you! Mrs. G

MrsG47, What is a sticker? I already sprayed my peach trees with dormant oil, Should I spray with copper now since I haven't done it yet, I'm in zone 6 PA.

Bonideî Turbo Spreader Sticker

Use the Turbo Spreader Sticker adjuvant to get more out of your herbicide, insecticide, and fertilizer treatments. The Spreader Sticker ensures that chemical treatments dispense evenly and stay on the plants for a longer period of time. Adding this adjuvant to chemical applications can prevent leaching of chemicals into the soil, resulting in less chemical use to achieve maximum coverage. Each 8 ounce bottle contains enough to mix between 5-15 gallons, mixing between 1-4 tablespoons per gallon.

Always read directions on the label and mix only as indicated. The non-ionic formulate aids with wetting, penetrating, and adhering for uniform application and protects from sunlight and rain. This is what I add to my copper and to my combo of Immunox and Triazicide. Think of it as glue. It gives the chemicals you might use a bit more staying power. I don't see why you cannot spray with copper now, but someone like 'Olpea' in this forum will give you a far better answer. Mrs. G

I mix copper with my dormant oil spray for all fruit.

Was going to do it today, but the wind kicked up fierce.

Hi Steve, MH gal, try the link to your Land Grant below, hope it helps. If you go to the search box on it and type in peach, no doubt there's a boatload of info. there too.

Here is a link that might be useful: CSU on pears and apples

Interesting variations here. The Volck Oil Spray (have a bottle of this left over) states that it should not be used within 30 days of a sulfur or captan application. Yet it sounds like some folks here are mixing their sulfur with their oil or timing them much closer together than 30 days.

I am wondering if those of you who are timing the sulfur and oil sprays much closer together are using a different type of oil, or doing it in cooler weather, or if the warnings about separating the oil and sulfur just don't apply? How is it that you don't see the bad results?

Most of the recommendations I've read suggest only a single dormant application in either spring or fall to control peach leaf curl- multiple applications are for things like cystospora canker. I would be cautious about using more copper than necessary because over time I expect it could lead to too much copper in your soil.

Too much love has probably killed more plants in the history of our relationship than neglect.

I consider it to be imprecise methodology to automatically spray anything without clear justification and this even includes oil, which does kill most anything it happens to smother- friend or foe. I oil apple trees with a history of mites or scale or where I don't think I will catch them soon enough should they appear. I never oil peaches or J. plums because here in SE NY they are never bothered by mites and seldom scale in my experience. I oil pears with a history of psyla.

Long term, your best results will come from careful observation and intervening only when needed. Only a couple of proactive sprays are absolutely required in my neck of the woods- most years, most sites, most species.

The warning against spraying oil and sulfur/copper to closely has to do with phytotoxicity of the foliage or flowers. Dormant tissue will not be harmed by mixing the two.

My oil spray is primarily targeted at pyslla and aphids.

What kind of aphids?

What kind of aphids?

Rosy and Green apple aphids

I always have infestations if I skip the dormant oil

They never do me much harm here. It's strange that oil works for your RAA but Cornell doesn't even recommend oil for them and calls on the heavy artillery instead. The only thing they recommend oil for on apples is mites and scale.

itilton, seems to be an oversight by Cornell as oil spray between green tip and half inch green is recommended by UC Davis and other reliable sources for both of those pests. I guess you can't wait until tight cluster.

Thanks for helping me understand.

If so, it's just as well I didn't get out yesterday, as all my trees are still in full dormancy.

One thing I've wondered - it would seem that an oil spray on the bark of apples could get overwintering codling moth larvae. But no one ever recommends this.

Maybe it makes no difference when you treat the bark because of the quantity that over winter under the tree, although I'm not sure that oil suffocates moths in any stage of their life

Funny, no one at Home Depot or Lowe's even knows what dormant oil is. I was told to go the the lawn mower section! I did get it at Jared's.

It, here is some info about using hortoil for suppression of CM. The problem is that it requires multiple applications to be affective. Maybe you need to hit them immediately after the eggs hatch.

Here is a link that might be useful: coddling moth control

Some people advise mixing an insecticide into the oil spray

I read recently of one disadvantage to dormant oil sprays on peach and apricot, it darkens the bud leading to earlier bud break and the possible exposure to cold injury of the bud or ensuing flower. In essence, darkening the bud makes it do it's thing earlier than it would have otherwise. If you live in area where it's already iffy, maybe dormant apps. aren't a good idea.

Michael,

I've also heard oil advances peach blooms.

So far I've not needed to spray peaches w/ oil. I only spray apples and pears with dormant oil.

Just like the medicine they are, all pesticides have unwanted side affects- usually, at the very least, killing some beneficials. The idea that the darkened buds bloom sooner is a side affect that probably went unobserved for decades. All springs are iffy at most sites.

As a general rule, least possible harm comes from least possible intervention to achieve desired results when negotiating with Momma Dearest.

Thanks for the advice on oil and peaches. I guess I won't be spraying my peaches with it now. This is sort of a logistical question, what volume does one need to mix up? I have about 15 peaches that will get copper and the rest will get oil and copper; about 45 5-year old trees? (total newbie at spraying!)