It's easier on the tree in stages. Doing it over several years shouldn't cost you hardly any yield at all. The lost foliage is partly compensated for by better light on what foliage is left. So you can leave almost the same number of apples on the tree.

would you time the pruning differently....cutting back the "extras" after the first flush of growth?

I hate to have the tree dump energy into a bunch of re-growth shoots on the scaffolds that are on their way out.

I suppose if I limit myself to thinning cuts only..no heading it is less of an issue.

First choose your permanent scaffolds, then thin branches that aren't necessary to harvest available light, then remove any wood of temporary branches that is crowding into your permanent ones. No need to sacrifice crop, but all fruiting wood should be well exposed to light for quality fruit.

Having temporary scaffolds can be useful not just to increase crop but as a place to tape or weave upright shoots located on your permanent scaffolds to help create good horizontal secondary wood.

Varieties like Goldrush, Arkansas Black, Honeycrisp, and Roxbury Russet, that are reluctant to create ample secondary wood, benefit from extra scaffolds when they are young.

Summer pruning will be useful for this purpose as well. It's easier to really see the tree then anyway.

appreciate the feedback guys