Make sure it really is "stainless steel" and not just clad or another alloy. Stainless, in theory, should last as long as the concrete, and will certainly outperform standard ferro-rebar by an order of magnitude. Being so pricey, there have been limited applications, so there is consequently little field data to support the thoery to date. But I wouldn't let that stop you from celebrating. I'd say you made a great find and would personally be falling all over myself to find more at a "deal" price. I would, however, save it for the "good" stuff. Have a ball.

Ok Tango -thanks for the "great find" kudos!

How would I eaisly find out if this really is stainless?

What I found, traipsing around the piles of salvage, was wadded up lengths of this stuff. What caught my eye was how brilliantly shiny it is. Everything around it was dull and dirty looking. One of the workers told me it was stainless. It sure does not have the low-luster shine of aluminum.
It isn't magnetic.
And twisting a single wire took some effort - again confirming that it isn't aluminum.

What else would be so shiny & strong?
I'll be going back for more. The ladies at the checkout just eyeballed my wad and said it was a pound. they must like me, or just not want to mess with small purchases, cause it's at least 5 pounds worth. Any, it was a whole 15 cents and I'm feeling like a rich girl, having it in my inventory of "junk".

As far as saving it for good projects, perhaps now I'll actually design one of those cool ferro- benches you excel in. :-)

If you have some Muriatic acid, you might try soaking a small sample with cut ends in it for a day or so then set it out to dry. If it is just plated, the exposed ends will corrode like crazy. If it is truly stainless, it might etch back a bit, but should not corrode. However, do be careful handling the Muriatic, while it is relatively "mild" as acids go, it can do serious damage, especially to the eyes.

And if you're interested, I'd be more than happy to double your money on that deal right now! Thirty-cents in cold, hard cash! What a find.

Wow, THANKS!!

Have a pol, so have the acid. And, have a great respect for getting anywhere near the stuff, or its fumes.

At least I have a place to pour out the dregs after the soaking.
Thanks again!

Some stainless steels are affected by magnets, many are not. Even non-magnetic ones can become magnetic in certain conditions, so it doesn't really guarantee you anything.

Stainless steel has a density of 7.8-8.0 g/cm3, which will distinguish it from other metals but not from plated iron or other steels.

Many zinc-plated steels show obvious large crystal structures on the surface which would be visible even on a mesh if you have a lens.

Resistance to corrosion really is the best way to confirm you have stainless.

So, if it happened to be zinc, would that limit using it in crete projects?

Don't think I've seen zinc addressed on this forum - either good or bad.

Rockyn --- here is some info I posted way back when. Zinc is OK in concrete that is not exposed to a lot of salt. It will eventually corrode, but it I've seen and worked on hundred-year old pieces in which the rebar was gone but most of the galvanized (zinc coated) lath was still in pretty good shape. Oddly enough, it is the layer of corrosion that forms almost instantly that protects zinc in concrete for the long term. Here's the poop on zinc and a few other metals from a non-copyrighted, online technical article...........

"CORROSION OF NONFERROUS METALS IN CONTACT WITH CONCRETE OR MORTAR

Aluminum (Al)

Embedded aluminum roof flashing, aluminum water stops, aluminum electrical conduit, introduced aluminum powder (sometimes used to foam concrete), or embedded structural aluminum shapes may all corrode in concrete or mortar. In all cases, a reaction that forms aluminum hydroxide and hydrogen gas occurs, and may cause expansion and cracking of the concrete or mortar. The common use of calcium chloride (or other alkali compounds), and dampness of the concrete increases the reaction rate. Usually, coating the aluminum with bituminous paint, impregnated paper or felt, plastic, or an alkali-resistant coating will prevent or sharply reduce the corrosion.

Copper (Cu)
Copper embedded in concrete and/or mortar is usually roof flashing. Embedded copper is practically immune to reaction with corrosive alkalis, even if exposed to constant moisture. Copper will not react with dry, hardened concrete and/or mortar. Rainwater leaching, however, may bring chlorides in contact with the metal. Corrosion may occur and result in a green discoloration or runoff. Consequently, chloride admixtures should not be used in concrete if contact with copper is expected.

Lead (Pb)
Lead will always corrode when in contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. The high pH from calcium hydroxide is the cause of the corrosion. Cured, seasoned concrete or mortar will not react with lead. Corrosion of embedded lead flashing in mortar joints will usually result in the production of a lead oxide, a white discoloration. A special case of lead corrosion, called differential aeration, occurs when a lead strip is partially embedded in concrete so that part of the strip is exposed to air. The embedded section has a different electrical potential than the section exposed to air. The result is that the strip will become polar in the presence of moisture. Gradual corrosion and disintegration of the embedded lead will then follow. In such a case, and in all other cases, the embedded portion should be coated with epoxy, varnish, asphalt, or pitch.

Zinc (Zn)
Zinc is highly reactive with alkalies and will deteriorate to some degree upon contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. The reaction is limited due to a corrosive film that forms on the outer layer of the zinc. It protects the underlying metal from further reaction. Zinc will not react with dry, seasoned concrete and/or mortar. Embedded zinc will react with moisture and calcium hydroxide to produce calcium zincate. Zinc corrosion may also occur when galvanized iron, in the form of flat or corrugated sheets and rebar, comes in contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. Galvanized iron is coated with zinc, and will react with moisture and chlorides in the concrete and/or mortar to produce zinc chloride. The result is expansion and cracking of the concrete and/or mortar. The metal should be protected with epoxy, varnish, asphalt, or pitch."

Hey rockyn,

What salvage yard do you use? I know there used to be a fantastic one in San Antonio (can't recall the name).
Not looking to swoop in on your mesh find. I just like to find interesting metal pieces and incorporate them into multi-media 'sculptures'.

I wonder how long it takes for regular metal rebar to break down when embedded in concrete? It might be so long that it isn't an issue. And does anyone ever incorporate it into hypertufa for structural support (just like concrete)?
Sorry for the newbie question, which is addressed to anyone more experienced.