Read the FAQs, start simple, but START! Doing it yourself will teach you more than anything you can read.

Sue

Thanks Sue!

I went and purchased everything needed, read the FAQ's and now I have to decide WHAT to make first. I will say that I love the lanterns. I am looking to make anything that will go with my pond in the backyard. I really would like an oriental theme. We collect Buddah's, and I have made them from polymer clay, but I am not sure how to go about carving it with cement. Not sure on the drying times, etc.

I've posted a link to a thread about carving grots, which I'm sure would also pertain to carving a Buddha.

Mabel in Maine

Here is a link that might be useful: grot carving

Thanks! That site did indeed help. Which receipe works best. I went with the one without sand, yet I see a lot of you use it instead of the vermite. Pros and cons? Which is best to use?

Ok I started! *crossing fingers*

I went with the lantern idea that is on one of the threads, due to the fact that it had pictures on how to make it. LOL!

Did run across some questions and observations while I was trying it.

1. Can you premix the dry ingredients to use later?
2. What is the best thickness?
3. Had no clue who much it would take and had to make several batches to complete all the molds.
4. Working with a round container for mixing was best for me. Much easier to stir. Also I used a garden hand shovel to mix. It made it easier to reach in the corners of the container.
5. Have no idea how it will turn out but can say I tried!

I have all the molds set up in the garage so they can dry. How often do I need to mist them with water and when should I release them from the molds.
Thanks!!!!!

Did run across some questions and observations while I was trying it.

1. Can you premix the dry ingredients to use later?

Yes but be careful. Peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite are rarely perfectly dry even if they feel dry to you.
Give them a few days indoors in a wide open container before combining with Portland cement.
Also adding water to these dry mixes can be tricky as the now dry peat and vermiculite suck up the water as you add it. You will need to get a feel for this.
I recommend making little bricks to give yourself an idea of how much time you have to work your recipe and how quickly it cures.

2. What is the best thickness?

There is no best thickness. Too thick is better than too thin but this varies with the recipe you use and the size of you project. Until you break a few pieces you won't have an answer. :)
If you make a bunch of little bricks they will certainly help you judge the strength of your recipe.

Hi Kris. The only way you learn is to dive in and give it a try. In answer to some of your questions, yes you can premix ingredients. I only do this when I'm about to pour something new in case I don't have enough on hand to finish the project. I've never tried to store the premixed ingredients for use at a later date, so I can't tell you what will happen if you try this.

Write down the amounts you use for future reference should you decide to duplicate a project somewhere down the line.

Most people use sand/peatmoss/Portland because sand is far cheaper than vermiculite or perlite. Using a sand mix will cause your piece to weigh approx. as much as something made of concrete. No big deal if you're doing something small, but if you're doing something large (unless you're making it in multiple pieces) go with the Vermiculite or Perlite. The finished piece will weigh fully 1/2 as much. I make large pieces all the time (sand mix) and need a hand truck to move them. Add the same amount of Verm. or Perl. as you would sand.

24 hours is the usual amount of time you wait to de-mold. If you've never tried carving before, I would recommend pouring a 5 gal. pail (empty spackle buckets work great!) 1/3 to 1/2 full and practice carving on it immediately after you de-mold it 24 hours later to get a feel for how tufa 'works' when carved.

Have fun.

Ya know.....You guys are the best!

I will let you all know about the dry ingreds. I mixed some up and placed it in a container with a lid. I assumed I would go through some "waste" in the beginning as I am in the learning stage.
I am really excited about the carving thing. I think I will do better at that then the molds.

I do believe I will go with the sand the next time. I was lucky enough to get 2 MASSIVE bags of peat moss for 40 cents per bag becasue they had a little hole in them.

The sand is on sale now in several different colors for 70 cents per bag versas the verlite wich was almost $3.00 for a small bag. So back to the store I will go! I also have dogs and think the heavier the product the better. This way they willbe less apt to knock them over and such.

How long do I wait and how much misting do I need to do while still in the molds? Any at all? Once out do I mist them then.

Kris,
i want to add to what tufaenough has said about mixing dry ingredients. A sizeable rubbermaid tote is an excellent storage container for many of the dry ingredients.
When I have mixed dry ingredients for use later I do not put the cement in, no matter how dry I think the other ingredients might be. (I wasn't sure Tufaenough was saying he did or did not add cement to the dry ingredients when storing)
About the adjustment of water. When using very dry ingredients it will be important to adjust the liquid accordingly, but just a little at a time. You are safe to mix with water and then walk away for ten minute, go get a beverage, or go to the bathroom, or make sure the kids are where they said they'd be, but let the process of hydration begin for about 10 minutes, then re-mix your mix and see if you need more water. Vermiculite is like little sponges, as is perlite.
Somepeople screen their peatmoss, others want the rustic look that a stick or a clump of peat might give to their work, again peat sucks up water, it is from the bottom of a bog and meant to hold water.
Dena

Kris,

As Dena does, I also mix the dry ingredients without cement and store them in a rubbermaind container, I think it makes making a quick batch possible when you are time challenged (and aren't we all!)

I recently tried adding a bit of water to my dry mix of peat, vermiculite and sand. I added just a small amount the day before I planned a HT project. My thinking was this would give the peat and vermiculite a chance to absorb the water so they would not be wicking the water away from the cement when I added it to make HT.

The next day I remixed the dry ingredients. They did not feel very wet, but were not at all dusty which was a nice bonus. Then I added the cement and mixed thoroughly, then added the water immediately.

I was really pleased with the results, it seemed to mix more easily in the trough and was very workable. In this instance I used a 1-1-1-1 white Portland, sharp sand, screened peat, fine vermiculite mix.

Keep us posted on your progress!

Mabel in Maine

kris1314
unmold after 24 hours and you do not need to mist but keep the tufa mixed covered in plastic while the molds set and after you clean them back in plastic for the cure time 1 week to 4 weeks depending on the use and your patiience.

I am also new to this list, ran across it a few weeks ago and have been enjoying reading all, and I mean all the back posts to try and get caught up.

Love what everyone has been doing. It is inspiring. I have been hypertufaing for about 4 years and I thought I was doing it all untill I came across some of the ideas on this list. Now I have more things to make.

Kris
I have had no problem mixing all my dry (really dry) materials ahead of time including Portland and pigments.
I'm using batches I made 5 months ago.:)

Molds? For those with children...I found LOTS of things in the children's toy boxes to use. Also has anyone tried using the lip to an outdoor plastic garbage can for a birdbath top?

I have used a garbage can lid for a birdbath it has a very nice gentle slope to it.Check out the last pictures on the page link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Pictures

I used the garbage can lid for the roof or top part of Japanese lanterns. Combined with sand casting I got different results.

Tried the free hand thing last night. Not real sure about it yet. I had a hard time adding it together to form large pieces. Evertime I added some to the bunch it just wanted to break apart. I added more water thinking it was too dry, and that did seem to help a little. Then when I wanted to make it "taller" it would drop some because of the water. Will continue trying to come up with just the right feel. I do think that using sand in the mix would help some.