As long as you avoid bringing in diseased plants and refurbish (fertilize) your soil each year. You should be ok. Some of the brassicas are heavy feeders. Disease however is usually introduced. If you grow your own plants from seed, the chances of introducing a soil borne disease is minimal. It normally comes with the roots of plants.

farmerdilla, that's great! Because I have been growing all my own brassicas from seed, either by direct sowing or by starting them indoors in a sterile seed starting mix. Thanks so much!

I was just reading today that since clubfoot will stay in the soil for 20 years, rotation in a small garden is not always practical or useful. Also, that adding lime to the soil will help prevent it. However, the best news I've heard this summer is this news about starting from seed! I start all my brassicas from seed, so maybe I don't need to be so worried. (I didn't know about clubfoot until I read about it this summer, and I've been planting brassicas in the same beds for several years. ) I, too, have fallen in love with asian mustards, bok choy, arugula, broccoli raab, and thought my biggest problem was flea beetles. (Row covers.) Thanks for setting my mind at ease! (Though just to be safe, I'll not plant my fall crop where the spring crop was.)

Chard and beets are not brassicas. That's why they aren't prey to the worst brassica pests and diseases, which is a lucky thing if one has those sort of infestations.

So you can put those before or after brassica plantings, or companion planted. Broc, cauli, cabbage, etc are much heavier feeders also than beets and chard.

Pnbrown, that's something I've never been clear on. When people talk about "Brassicas" are they referring to the genus Brassica or the family Brassicaceae. Based on your response, I'm assuming it's the genus? That's also very helpful to know.

I can only speak for myself, but when I say Brassicas I mean anything in the mustard family. Even if one means only those plants in the brassica genus that still covers almost all of the common "brassicas": cabbage, brocc., caul., br. sprouts, mustard and collard greens, turnips and rutabagas, kale, kohlrabi, pac choi and most other similar looking asian greens. The only common "brassicas" (in the big sense of the word) I can think of that are not in the genus of brassica are radishes. Its pretty obvious when you see chard and beets flower (not that most people see that often) that they are not in the mustard family. All mustards have the classic flower (often yellow, occ. white or pink) shaped like a maltese cross. Beets and chard have dingy flowers either without or with tiny petals.

If your space is really limited I'd just add lots of compost every year. Not a perfect solution but one that helps with soil "health". Tom

My suggestion is this:

Grow your beloved brassicas in bed A each and every year. Don't rotate.

If you ever run into a disease problem that is soil persistent switch to growing all your brassicas in bed B. Don't rotate.

If bed B becomes infected switch to bed C etc.

If you run out of beds go back to bed A.

In between add organic matter to the infected beds which will assist in speeding up the eradication of the disease.

If you ever get back to bed A and find the disease still present, switch to container gardening of brassicas.

All the above words just mean that crop rotation on a small scale simply doesn't work. If you are using the same tools in bed A as bed B you are spreading pathogens between beds unless you are meticulous about cleaning tools between beds (who does that?).

Just grow what you love and enjoy it and don't worry about the small stuff. If you have problems deal with them as they come. Each day/season has enough of it's own problems, no need to worry about problems that are only potential problems.