I gather that your land slopes downward to the north and west...but am not sure. You seem to have a fairly large slope and I can only surmise that erosion is not severe in your location?

I doubt that changing bed directions would help enough unless drainage would be improved or erosion would be checked better.

I don't drip irrigate but would guess that normal irrigation would be ok, unless you get heavy rains at times in growing season.

Oops, forgot to say that the land slopes down (1" per foot) toward the south and down (1/2" per foot) toward the west. So the southwest corner is the lowest, and the northeast is the highest. I have a six-foot wire fence around the garden, which keeps the deer out. The gate is at the northeast corner. Also, in case someone does the math, the paths at the ends of the rows (the east-west paths) are 3-1/2 feet wide.

Drainage and erosion have not been a problem. The surrounding land has essentially the same slope, so rain water disperses quite well.

I have almost the same slope and orientation of my bed.My path between bed is 24" which I think is narrow because I can hardly maneuver the wheelbarrow .Each bed is level on every direction Next bed is about 2" lower so its like a step very bed. Every bed has drip irrigation with 1/2gph dripper.I dont have problem with the pressure because it is pressure compensated dripper.My garden is 48'x24'

My veg bed have similar downhill slopes, except not so gentle. I think some of my beds have 1 foot drop per 3'. But I'm lucky the hill is almost dead N-S here for sun exposure.

Did you mean you want your beds running northwest-southeast lengthwise? I also designed my beds lengthwise across the slope to minimize the drop. Pressure dripping and soakers seem to work ok here. Actually slight angle is not entire bad for sun exposure. The planting layout (what to plant where, trellis, shading, etc) sometimes are just as important for my case.

Thank you all for your very helpful comments. You caused me to look at a satellite view and learn that if I looked from the high point of my rows toward the low point, I would be looking about 30 degrees west of due south. So my rows are running about NNE to SSW. The land slopes 1 inch per foot along the length of the rows, and 1/2 inch per foot along the width of the rows. The rows are 10 feet long by 4 feet wide.

If I rotate the rows 90 degrees, they would be running down (1/2 inch per foot) from ESE to NNW. If I rotate my plan so the rows are running across this (compound) slope, they would be running very nearly N-S. However, the outer perimeter of the garden is in about the best location on my property: one side parallel to the driveway; not too far from the house; etc. To give a little context, I'm on 2.5 hilly acres. The leg of the driveway that runs past the garden is 250 feet long, and the garden is 50 feet from the house.

My take is that there is no clear advantage in changing my current layout. Again, I sincerely appreciate everyone's comments here.

Yes, really, you are making a mountain out of a molehill. Amongst other things, when you rotate all the adobe of the paths will be in the new beds, and a lot of soft soil in the paths. With a little adjustment of the bed sides, each bed can be made reasonably flat with minimum disruption.