Info at the site linked below; but I was a bit confused, as they indicated that the best time to do it was at the end of the dormant season, when the plant was still growing slowly - wonder if they meant the end of the growing season?

I've had little success rooting dormant-collected cuttings of mulberry - though one would anticipate that they'd be fairly easy, like their cousins the figs; but I've got several pots of mulberry cuttings, taken and struck during the first 2-3 weeks of July, that are beginning to put out fresh leaves - I've not checked for root production, but they look good a month or so out...

Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Propagation - truncheons

Well, I was also confused by that site, because it doesn't explain AT ALL how you do it, other than cutting the end off. Huh???

Carla in Sac

Looks like you dig a 2-ft deep hole - like with a set of manual post-hole diggers, cut off a mulberry branch the size of your arm, and stick it in the hole.

If mulberries truly root as easily as figs it should be really easy. Once dormant take the cutting and let the cut callous over by leaving it exposed to the elements for 2-4 days. Then dig a hole and bury 2/3rds of the cutting it the soil. Don't let it the soil dry out and don't drown it either. The cutting has no roots to start with so shading it on warm days is recommend until it establishes a sufficient root system.

Come Spring and you should have a viable tree growing in your yard.

Some mulberries root easily from dormant cuttings I know from experience, though I don't remember the cultivar(s?). Some are reputed in the literature to be difficult (M. alba and M. rubra are mentioned). A century ago the trick was to whip-and-tongue graft a piece of an easily rooted one to the bottom of a longer cutting of a difficult one and use the whole combination as a cutting. Rot-able (unwaxed) twine was used to wrap the graft.

Should I leave any branches on the truncheon? Or just keep it mainly fat, long stick?