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Asian Pears

15 years ago

I have a 4 in 1 semi dwarf Asian Pear tree and would like to plant another Asian Pear tree in a different area only this time I thought I would pick the best and plant that one. The thing is that I thought that I would be able to taste a pear from each of the 4 types on my tree to decide which one to plant. However, my dogs and the birds had other ideas. So, can anyone tell me their opinions as to which is the best tasting pear as well as the best all around tree for production and tree health?

The trees that do best here require 400 and less chill hours.

Comments (14)

  • 15 years ago

    Chojuro gets my vote.

  • 15 years ago

    You don't say what varieties you are growing. I am fond of Shinseiki most out of 6 asian pear trees.

    I have Chojuro and it is good but when i tried Chojuro grown in hot summer climate is was watery and bland. I'd check to see what others in your hot dry climate are having success with.

  • 15 years ago

    Atago fruited here this year for the first time - I like it, and it's ripe early - mid-July.
    Have had Chojuro, Niitaka, and Shinko fruiting here for a decade or more - Chojuro always is tops.
    Korean Giant, while it gets rave reviews from most folks, was a dog here - shy fruit set(rarely more than a handful of fruits) that grew to be huge, beautiful flavorless things - tasted like a big juicy potato; it was a fireblight magnet, and finally succumbed to that malady.

    Also have Hosui, Tsu Li, Ya Li, Dasui Li, Bong Ri, Yoinashi - some of which have fruited, but none have been a match for Chojuro or Shinko, which are my #1 & #2 picks, respectively.

  • 15 years ago

    Kosui, Yoinashi, and Hosui have been best for me. I should have a bunch of new varieties to try this year assuming I can keep the critters off them. Shinko has been bad, bitter and no sweetness. Other people like it so maybe it doesn't like the OH333 root I have it on. Lucky, my Chojuro are ripening soon and I look forward to trying them. The tree has been nicely productive and the fruits look beautiful, so if they taste good its a winner.

    Good thing the BMSB stinkbug hasn't reached AZ yet, those bugs love asian pears and they wiped out all of my crop last year. This year they are getting squished and drowned so I can get a crop.

    Scott

  • 15 years ago

    My original Asian pears are on Harbin pear(P.ussuriensis) understock. Subsequent trees, which I've grafted, are either on OHxF 513 or P.calleryana with a 10-inch interstem of OHxF 513.

  • 15 years ago

    I always loved Hosui the best when I lived in Austin. Dry climate seemed to limit the FB. Some Hill Country growers raved about what a great tasting pear Chojuro was and how easy it was. I dont think you will get enough chill for Shinko and definatley not enough for Korean Giant. One no one has mentioned is 20th century probably because it can get lots of FB. Your dry climate may help lilmit this problem though and it is certainly a very high quality Asian Pear.

  • 15 years ago

    Re: Chojuro, a few of mine are ripening now and they are tasting very good. So I will probably be adding that one to my recommended list.

    Good point about the chill, scaper.

    Scott

  • 15 years ago

    The types of pears on my one tree are, Chojuro, Shinseiki, 20th Century and Hosui. These are the most common ones that I have seen grown here.
    Chojuro and Hosui seem to be the favorites so far. Thanks for the help!

  • 15 years ago

    Is it possible to graft Asian pear onto an existing European pear?

  • 15 years ago

    Yes. I have a 'multi-variety' tree in the orchard - a Keiffer, that's foster-home to a dozen or so varieties - stuck most of them on there as'backups', or when I was out of rootstock to put things on.
    Taught one of my coworkers to graft and gave her a mixed bag of scions once. She started re-working the sizeable callery pear in her backyard, and had several branches that fruited before it did the normal callery thing and self-destructed

  • 15 years ago

    How did the callery self destruct?

    I'm hoping a "Bradford" that I used as a main trunk when small will support branches that started as buds on the trunk. I forced them to be high-angle crotches.

    The "Bradford" was all I could lay my hands on quickly as rootstock. I actually got the idea from the gentleman who is the southern pear specialist for NAFEX. I think he had to salvage some of his collection that way when he moved.

  • 15 years ago

    bananas,
    I'm sure you've seen those callery pears(Bradford and other named selections of its ilk) in residential settings that, at somewhere between 10 and 20 years of age fall apart, as if you'd set off a grenade right in the center of the trunk where all the myriad branches(with acute angles and included bark) originate. Same thing happens when you start re-working a 10-yr old callery with scions of fruiting selections; if you don't address the essential structural problems of Bradford, you're in for trouble.

    I have a number of fruiting pears on seedling callery (and callery with OHxF 513 interstem), and anticipate no problem with them.
    I don't disagree with Mr. Callahan.
    I have recommended to certain persons that they go to one of the big box stores, buy a nice vigorous Bradford, Cleveland, Aristocrat, etc., pear and rework all branches to fruiting varieties. If you do it early enough in the callery's life, there's no reason that it shouldn't have a comparable lifespan to any other fruiting pear.

  • 15 years ago

    My vote goes to 20 Century pears.
    David

  • 15 years ago

    I budded to the main stem (trunk), space them out and around, and make sure the crotches are high angle in hopes to avoid the typical "Bradford" breakage problem. (I see it here everywhere in older "Bradfords" and the adding of "Clevelands" to lessen the problem has just provided a pollinator for both and callery pears are now a growing problem as a spreading non-native tree in forests: a giant fireblight reserve.)