In case it helps I have posted the actual report at
http://www.merikle.com/SoilTest.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Test Report

I'm a few credit hours shy for my agronomy degree, but I'll give it a whirl.
Others more knowledgeable (Andy) will correct me where I'm wrong and advise.

>"The recommended dose of calcitic limestone seems like quite a bit when I am not seeing anything totally out of whack."

Your pH is rather acidic and "out of whack", so lime is needed to raise (sweeten) the pH level. The action of applying lime is not drastic at all. Raising pH is a slow procedure and many pounds of lime are needed.

Agricultural lime comes in two forms. Calcitic and dolomitic. Dolomitic contains calcium and magnesium, which your soil contains more than enough of, therefor the calcitic recommendation - which is available at your local garden centers.

Don't be put off by the price of the calcitic lime, as it is stronger than dolomitic lime and actually works out cheaper. Also if you feel 93 Lbs is a lot, you'd be applying several/many hundreds of pounds of dolomitic instead.

>"And how would you recommend applying 50 pounds to a 1000 sq feet? "

With a normal spreader. Don't worry about a setting, just walk until all 50Lbs are used.

>"And last, but not least if I am to apply 2 lbs of P205 how would you recommend doing that? Best I can tell P205 is not sold straight, but is usually mixed in with other stuff. Am I right here? Can I buy it straight? "

Starter fertilizer is designed to apply 1 Lb Phosphorus / 1000 sq. ft following bag directions. Do two apps - spring and fall.

The 50 lb/1000 sq ft is generally used for cheap dolomitic lime. Good Calcitic Lime is generally applied at much lower rates, and is actually cheaper when you factor in the application rate to get the same results.

Google a Jonathan Green garden center in your area an get Mir*A*Cal or Mag*I*Cal Calcitic Lime, and apply it at the "heavy" rate specified on the bag. Repeat the treatment in September and you'll be fine.

Don't apply any Lime within two weeks of using a urea-based fertilizer - there is an interaction that makes the fertilizer much less effective if that happens.

I'm a few credit hours shy for my agronomy degree,...

Hey Gary, are you the guy who waltzed in here a few years ago claiming to be a soil student and throwing your education around? Or was that someone else? In any case I have to say you have learned a heckofalot about soils and turf. I always look forward to reading what you have to say.

Keep it up; we want to see you graduate! Your field needs more like you.

>"Hey Gary,[snip]"

David, my agronomy degree was tongue in cheek. So no, that was not I, LOL!

PS, no waltzing, just a real bad polka and thanks for the kind words.