I'm no expert but I'll give it a shot. If your soil is rock hard, whatever else may be causing that I'm pretty sure it is not getting enough moisture.

On the slow growth, I would suspect this (drought) is a large part of the problem, and most of the rest of it is lack of nutrients in the soil. I know you say you get a good deal of rain, but it has to come at the right times. Curious, does the water tend to puddle up and sit on the surface?

Where to start? Send a soil sample to you local agricultural extension for analysis. They should be able to tell you both the composition of your soil (clay/sand/loam) and the state of the soil's fertility, and then provide recommendations for how to improve it. I would do that first, so if you need to add major soil amendments you can do that without having to work around your new irrigation system.

If the soil structure is OK (or as soon as you make it OK) get that sprinkler system installed! Then focus on proper watering and fertilizing.

I hope that helps, and even more that someone more knowledgeable than me chimes in.

Good luck!
Paul

Getting organic material into/onto your dirt will gradually turn it into living, softer soil. Compost would be your best bet. Some people like mixing it into the top 6 inches for a more "intant gratification" but if that's done at all, it should be done maybe the 1st time and then every time after that the compost should just be laid on top. The more you till, the more organic material you lose to the air, and it's the organic material that you want to stay to work for you!

It may take awhile, but you can get your soil back by feeding it OM.

-Jeremy

My guess is if you are in a part of Texas that is hot and that dry, you will be happier going to a xeriscape type landscape with naturally adapted plants.

The suggestions above are good if you have enough water to start and maintain a lawn (and the inclination to spend the money on that much water).

Xeriscaping is a whole 'nother approach and you might even use 'mulches' like rock or pebble in that kind of landscaping.

You might start your decision making process by talking to neighbors that have a look you like and ask them how they did it and how much it cost, including water bills.

Good luck.

Here is a link that might help you get started. Exriscaped landscapes can be very pretty. Just different.

Here is a link that might be useful: New Mexico xeriscaping site

Stop tilling your soil. It seems soft at first but your results are typical. If you own the tiller, sell it so you are not tempted to till ever again.

If you have something green growing now, keep it. Even if it is not your first choice of turf, at least it is keeping the sun off of the soil. You need roots in the ground to start improving things.

Those green things that you have now need to be mowed at your mower's highest setting. This will help keep more moisture in your soil.

When you water, and you NEED to water, water for at least one hour in each watering zone. After decades of experimenting with different sprinklers, I have settled on a sweep type sprinkler for the best coverage and least loss and most time efficient. Some communities actually discourage the sweep type but I believe they are at least 10x better than the second best. The best time for you to water is in the evening after the sun goes down. I used to think that encouraged lawn disease, but I have been doing it for three years now and it works great.

Think St Augustine. St Aug can easily be the dominant grass in your garden if you treat it right. In order to grow a St Augustine lawn you will have to commit to watering it. You will have to water it once a week and NEVER let it dry out. When St Aug dries out, it dies. On the other hand when bermuda dries out, it goes dormant and will return fast with the first moisture. So if you do not, or can not, commit to watering, then bermuda will be the result.

Start watering once a week NOW. Water it for at least one hour. If the water runs off, stop watering immediately and come back in 15 minutes to finish. It should soak in better after it rests for a few minutes. It is sort of like moistening a sponge. At first the water rolls off but soon soaks in. You need to get the entire hour's worth of water down close to all at once. The worst thing is to water every day for 10 minutes. That will breed weeds like crazy.

Regarding your trees: at the base of the tree, can you see where the roots flare out away from the trunk? That root flare should be exposed about 1 inch above the ground. If you cannot see that root flare, then you may as well cut the trees down. They are on their way to dying. The only way to recover is to wash that soil away from the trunk and expose the roots. Then you will have to build a barrier around the tree to keep the dirt off the root flare. That part of the trunk right above the root flare absolutely HAS to be exposed or a fungus will girdle your tree. If you can see the root flare, then mulch around your trees. I like the shredded cedar mulch at Lowe's. Earth's Finest is the brand. They are a division of a very good composting company up in Dallas. Pile the mulch up under the entire canopy of the trees but keep it away from the trunks. Pile it about 2 inches deep and keep it that deep from now on. The mulch will retain moisture and keep it more even around the tree roots. Be sure the trees get deep water once a month. A ficus in your area should grow to exotic proportions.

If you decide to get a soil test done, forget about sending it to TAMU. Instead send (or drive) it to the Texas Plant and Soil Lab in Edinburg. They are the only soil test lab I am aware of with certified results that actually help people. Their standard soil test will test much more than a TAMU test and only cost a few bucks more. You have a national treasure with that test lab in your back yard. If you are going to have a test done, use them. Once you visit with them, you'll know why I like them. Unlike the universities, the TPSL has to have repeat customers. They know what they are doing and can perform miracles with you.

Rudedog,

What grass are you trying to grow? If you're going with st augustine, please look into Floratam variety. It's easily the most drought tolerant of any st augustine varieties so you can afford to water less often like every 2 weeks and maintain acceptable lawn. I don't go with weekly watering rule anymore. It is too dependent on several factors like weather and type of soil. I live on rocks and I can go as long as 2 weeks before watering again. I just look at my lawn and decide if it needs watering or not. My rule of thumb (in my case) is if 50% of my lawn is wilted, it's time to water. It seems to make them more drought hardy. I don't know. My mom's lawn in Houston never get watered at all. Rainfall is all it gets and it can go several weeks without any rain. It still looks nice when I went down there last week.

I agree with that Dchall about everything else.