No.

I'd like to paraphrase that, a little bit, so that you don't lose hope. While it is true that grass needs sunlight to grow (it can survive, with darn little moisture, or otherwise survive with darn little fertilizer), it might be true that you can find some 'prairie' grass, or some 'shade mix', and if you read the back of the package, those packages just plain SWEAR that this grass will grow, without sunlight. Those packages are lying: the grass will not grow, if there is not enough sunlight.

I then read an article, a few years back, where the author made a point of emphasizing "You can NOT grow turfgrass in the shade. You can NOT grow turfgrass in the shade."
I, of course, thought he was an idiot. He, of course, knew that I would think that, because I was an idiot. He was right. You can NOT grow turfgrass in the shade.

I am smarter now.

I am hoping to make you smarter, now.

You can NOT grow turfgrass in the shade.

I will leave it to you, to quibble with me: I don't mind. You can say "Gee, I might thin out a tree or two"....and you will be right, to the very small extent that you are willing to do that, as opposed to saying that you might. (There's a difference, isn't there?)

I suppose we could get to the point where you might move a building or two, to provide more light: but we won't.

Let's leave it at this: I blame it on the old codger. You are perfectly free to blame it on me. In fact, there are whole populations of suburbanites, who want to quibble, to argue, to experiment, and to plant something they found in a magazine, something like "Alaskan Pine Fur Zingo Special", and then they nurse it, water it, fertilize it, and close their backyard to any traffic, for months.

It is most irritating. You really, really, begin to understand the old slogan about shooting the messenger. I don't mind.

But here's the truth:

You can NOT grow turfgrass in the shade.

Ha, you can't beat Philes' answer.

But, the politicians on the board might say before you listen 100% to his excellent advise, you have to know what the definition of is is.

Is it "shade" or is it "shade". Everyone's definition is likely to vary a little, but mother nature's, that, as Philes suggest, you can't worm around, is what counts.

So, you can check out some of the shade tolerant turf grasses and try some hoping against hope. But, if you don't have some sun every day in the growing season, you should just listen to Philes. How much? Eh, that is the question of how much IS enough. Amount of shade, grass type, soil, water, etc.

Yep...no sun, no grass. Cut a tree or two down if that would allow enough sunlight through...if that's even a possibility.

+ Everybody else. You Can Not Grow Grass Without Sunlight.

Not for long, anyway.

In fact, I'll modify Philes' statement (long-windedly) and state you can't grow grass without at least four hours of sun per day. As a general rule. More is better; four would be just barely acceptable and isn't going to produce the best turf.

If you could have some trees removed, or have the existing ones thinned out by an expert, you would have a shot at it.

I will dissent to some degree the posts above. I have started two lawns from new construction to lush green and just seeded a crap existing lawn for #3 (results to be seen). I have lived in the far corner of the Northeast, VA, and NC.
Shade in MI, WI, etc is not that same as shade in NC. So, it depends on your area. Also, people are not calibrated on what constitutes shade. An hour of AFTERNOON sun may work but and hour of MORNING sun may not cut it.
I had a side of my house here in NC that was shaded all but the last 2 hours of the day in the Summer and it was gorgeous... the best side of my lawn. However, my lawn was watered via irrigation and fertilized with great care.
I you have shade AND dry ground you will stuggle to get the grass to grow. I know a person who maintains a golf course and he always remarks that the two things grass needs are H20 and TEMPERATURE.
I have a shady side of my lawn and will demonstrate what I am talking about with pics once the grass is up.
The suggestions to let in more light are correct, but I don't agree with the 4 hours of direct sun.

I have a shady side of my lawn and will demonstrate what I am talking about with pics once the grass is up.
The suggestions to let in more light are correct, but I don't agree with the 4 hours of direct sun.

I believe you--I gave the answer for the average level of care, not ours. I have a northern face that sees an hour of sun right around sunrise and that's it. It manages just fine because I coddle it constantly.

It also managed just fine because a northern exposure, and even an unclosed canopy of trees, isn't necessarily truly shade. Northlight comes through just fine. Coddle a bit and the grass will grow.

For most people, coddling is out of the question.

Grim ... but I'm a coddler, so I'll have one last go at it before I allow the pachysandra near it to gobble up the rest of the yard ....Sure makes mowing easy, though, with no sprouts!

LOL...

I'm in the middle of renovating my front lawn this year and either this week or next I'll be laying down about six pounds of Galaxy Plus KBG on my nearly 1900 sq. ft. for the front lawn.

I'm getting a little concerned about the amount of sun it will receive when the two 30' tall pin oak trees get their leaves in the next month or so (I'm trying to time germination to happen _before_ that happens) but at the same time, I'm hoping the shade provides enough of a cooling effect to allow the KBG to thrive in the otherwise lower-end of the transitional zone for the cool-season grass.

All and all, the temps and whatnot in this state only seem to be about 5-8 (F) warmer than they were when I lived in Detroit and my KBG thrived there. And, I'm planning on putting in a little one-zone irrigation system for the front lawn at the same time, so we'll see.

The lot is south-east facing which means the majority of the front lawn will receive the entire morning as full-sun until about 11:00 AM and then dappled shade during the hottest hours until sunset.

Be interested to hear anyone weigh in with their opinion on the likelihood of my success because I'm really biting my nails on this one lol.

One of the biggest problems people create for themselves and their property is trying to grow grass where it wont grow. They get weak turf and typically over fertilize and before long the weed pressure starts and can spread seeds in the rest of the yard continuing the cycle ad infinitum, frustrating the homeowner no end.

Make lemonade. If your lawn isn't doing well in a section of your yard then don't have a yard in that section of your property. Landscape.

The lot is south-east facing which means the majority of the front lawn will receive the entire morning as full-sun until about 11:00 AM and then dappled shade during the hottest hours until sunset.

That might do it. Resist the temptation to overfeed and overwater and you just might make it. But you'll have to water enough to counteract the trees' tendency to suck the water out of the ground.

Grim ... but I'm a coddler, so I'll have one last go at it before I allow the pachysandra near it to gobble up the rest of the yard ....Sure makes mowing easy, though, with no sprouts!

Go for it. I have reasonable success because the northern face is only about six feet on the north side of the house. Out past that point the sun exposure varies, but it's very good in late spring and early summer and does see evening and morning sun at all times.

In one entire section (more northwest) I transformed the lawn into a nice semi-shade garden. It still receives enough sun for a Miss Kim lilac (June blooming, a bit more shade tolerant) to do well and the outer edges have sun plants that do fine. I didn't want to fight with a twelve-foot zone that was somewhat questionable on sun for lawns, however.

Landscape.

Bingo. Hosta, Lady's Mantle, and Bleeding Heart have their uses. This is it.

Randomly, I had heard that Pin Oaks, specifically, do not like to be excessively watered during summer months.

I have no evidence to back that up because last year was my first experience with a hard frost and a serious ( -24" below averages) drought. Poor trees put out three sets of leaves last year before fall finally settled in.

Wasn't complaining though, it was my first year composting and I needed all the leaves for practice, heh.

May I suggest giving creeping red fescue a try. I have lived in Texas 37 years with my St.Augustine grass but I am originally from Ohio. I had a fairly shaded yard with a good crop of creeping red fescue.

Arjo - IÂm sure you realize the Autumn is the optimum time for renovation. That being said, I think that if you are able to water sufficiently, your plan may work OK for you. I would strongly suggest that you place 12 ft mulch rings around your pin oaks. That would be best for your trees and negate the need for grass in the most shaded areas. Plant some shade loving flowers and ornamentals in the mulch rings. Secondly, if KBG doesnÂt thrive well in your shady areas, then overseed with a blend of fine fescues (creeping red, hard, and chewings fescue cultivars) These grasses blend very well with KBG. Overseed with fescue lightly in moderate shade transitioning to a more heavy overseeding in denser shade. Also, consider the shady areas of your lawn "problem areas" and give your problem areas a light application of compost once or twice a year. Additionally, it may be necessary to overseed shady areas with fine fescue every fall in order to have a descent lawn in those areas. Good luck. Bill Hill