If you cut it all off and your grafts fail you might not get any regrowth anywhere. If happy with the one variety, cut out part of the top choosing 3-4 of those lower branches to be your main scaffolds for an open vase. This will allow you to form a balanced tree in the least time.

Spread the 3-4 scaffolds out over 8-10 inches vertically. You don't want all attaching to the trunk at the same point.

Fruitnut,

Thank you for the your advice.

I'm a little worried that the final, I imagined the matured tree looks lopsided due to its current shape like in this picture! In maturity, would the lopsided tree like this be able to hold up its only major branch with fruit load, not tilted to the side and/or not break at the vertical trunk? Is there anyone grow a fruit tree in this misshaped?

I'm going to keep this single branch with pruning as you've suggested but I'm still thinking of putting 2 more bark-grafts or t-buddings on the main trunk to slowly re-balance the look. Which way would get a better chance of success?

Can 2 bark-grafts be done on the trunk at this stage? Topping off apparently risks losing the tree as you've suggested. I definitely don't want to lose it but wanting to improve its look...

I'm still learning from the experts on this board!

Tom

" In maturity, would the lopsided tree like this be able to hold up its only major branch with fruit load, not tilted to the side and/or not break at the vertical trunk? Is there anyone grow a fruit tree in this misshaped?"

Yep. I've quit worrying about straight trunks. My peach trees go every which direction. Trees are lopsided too. Remember in some things (like pruning) "perfect is the enemy of good". If a scaffold gets canker, you can cut it off and the others will produce. Some growers keep cutting canker scaffolds off till they are down to one scaffold, which will produce just fine.

I wouldn't bother w/ grafting new scaffolds. If you are going to the trouble of grafting, I'd just graft a new tree. Prunus (especially peach) are harder to graft than pomes but read through some of the old posts for some good info on peach grafting.

I've had the most difficulty grafting peaches, but then, I've the least experience at it. It is not so useful as grafting other species because they bear so young from whips. However, I am beginning to like the idea of having at least 2 varieties on a single tree, just because a mature tree bears insane amounts of fruit.

The first year, almost all my peach grafts took when I used a simple splice graft after first growth in spring. The second year none took. Not sure if it was the quality of the wood, time of grafting, contrasting weather or what.

I intend to do quite a bit of peach grafting next spring.

I'm not sure it is worth grafting peaches just to change over a variety- but I live where the cost of living is high and labor expensive, including my own. I'm not overly thrilled by Elberta as a cultivar, but it's a pretty good peach.

All the trees on my lot are grown with BYOC and successive ripening in mind, but I'm far from being an expert. I'm just a loyal follower. :)

Personally, I would replace or top work a tree that is leaning like that. It is after all in a backyard, so some level of aesthetics are typically called for. I've found peaches to be dead simple to top work, but in your case there isn't a second branch to use as a nurse branch.

Here's my top worked 'August Pride' peach tree almost completely healed in this spring. I used the method detailed in the video below:

Here is a link that might be useful: How To Graft A Fruit Tree

I definitely want the balanced look of a back yard fruit tree. It's just topping off without a "nurse branch" kind of make me worry that I could total it, a good intention with damaging effects. Does anyone have success with a hybrid of a T opening with scion wood (bark graft instead of T-budding) on the trunk's side instead of topping off this year grow like in my case? That would provide the "nursing branch" function without the killing off the tree in case none of the scion wood take.

Another reason is I do want to graft other variety to this tree. I have a Saturn Peach and a Burgrundy Plum to charge up some flavors...

Just pondering...

Tom

Next spring attach a strong dowel or stake to the tree, all the way from the bottom to the top of the main branch. Attach it firmly without girdling the tree. Using something like the green, stretchy plant tie that comes in a roll, begin putting pressure on the branch against the stake. Keep tightening it throughout the season while the sap is flowing and the branch is pliable. After a season it may be straight enough or you could do it another year.

I have done this quite often, especially when the main trunk dies off and a sprout comes from lower on the trunk. It works best if the dead trunk is used to straighten the branch but a stake will work also as long as it is firmly connected the the trunk and will not bend itself.

mhg,

Interestingly enough, I have another peach, the Saturn, that was purchase as bare root, almost got killed off in last winter. It re-sprouted like 2 inches above the graft union this summer and I did exactly what you've suggested in your response. I bent it up along the main, dead trunk and let it go wild this year. Hopefully it survives this coming winter, then I'll be thinking of shaping it.

I dumped about 5 bags of wood chip around its dual trunks, up to knee high for this winter protection. Otherwise, I could have taken a picture to show you its current "dilemma"!

Tom