On a side note I did attempt to fix a oil leak that has been around a while; the source of the leak appears to be where the dipstick tube connects to the engine. I used some household silicone sealant(yes I'm sure that there is some sort of automotive sealant that I should have used) and if I don't see any oil for a few weeks I'll know for sure.

Model #s could be helpful. A rear mounted solenoid is likely an MTD product w/ 2 large poles and 1 small pole on it. This solenoid requires that it is securely grounded as well as the battery ground cables and the engine. If can can pull the battery, safely hook it to the CLEANED existing terminals with a set of good jumper cables- you can do a quick and easy test. Set the park brake 1st. If you can now jump across the 2 big terminals and it cranks- you know the engine will crank and the starter/ grounds etc are good. Know that it will spark- so do so safely. If you then jump from the + battery to the small terminal and it doesn't crank AND the solenoid is grounded- the solenoid is no longer. let us know what happens.

You're good, it's an MTD model alright, model 13AL452F730499321115, it's a 98' 400 series. I tried what you suggested putting the ignition in the run position but it still did not crank, but I can tell that my "rrrr" click noise is coming from the solenoid.

If jumping across the 2 big terminals do not crank it, then likely a battery , terminal, ground issue exists. They do battery testing at many automotive stores. Can you turn the engine by the top screeen by hand/

Well for the heck of it I took out the solenoid and put it back in, and now so far it's cranking and starting right up.

That oil leak could cause lose ground at engine mounts. If there oil under engine between frame engine. Silnoids make humming noise. You trying crank for 5 minutes then cranks sign you welding a temprary contact and starts.

"Well for the heck of it I took out the solenoid and put it back in, and now so far it's cranking and starting right up."

Well that pretty well says bad connection. Probably at solenoid terminals. IF the solenoid only has one small terminal on it, then it is self grounding thru the solenoid mount. Sometimes this becomes faulty. But since it did not crank when you jumped between the two large terminals, that pretty well eliminates bad mounting ground.

Walt Conner

"IF the solenoid only has one small terminal on it, then it is self grounding thru the solenoid mount"

It does indeed has only one small terminal.

It's still continuing to start right up for me, I'll post an update tomorrow when I test it again. Thanks for all of the help.

Well I tested it again and it started right up so it looks like the problem is fixed for now at least.

Nick when you get a chance inspect the oil filler tube further . Most likely the Internal O-Ring is cracked or pinched and may just need refitting or replacement which is a cheap fix .

Well I went to start up the mower this weekend, and had the rrrr hammering noise from the solenoid again, I shorted the two terminals and it started so it's appears to have been the solenoid the entire time. Fortunately, Lowe's sells a solenoid that's a perfect match.

Well I got the new solenoid, unfortunately it decided to rain today so I waited for it to slow down which was around 9:00 p.m. I put it in and it started right up. I'll end up washing and waxing my mower yet again tomorrow because rain was not predicted today so I left it out and it got rained on . .

As for the o-ring seal issue with the dipstick tube, my temporary silicone chalk seal is holding up so I'll wait until it's time for another oil change to fix the o-ring seal problem as I don't want to have to waste new oil.

Nick , good to hear you eliminated the intermittent solenoid issues , yeah the silicone will suffice until permanent repairs are warranted .

When I do change the oil next time and fix the leak permanently do most dipstick tubes simply screw off?

Nick , actually I have seen them both ways . Screwed and interference fit with internal the oil ring . The tube is usually supported by a plastic moulded tap which a hex fastener self tapping screw secures to the chassis.