'if this is true do i just screw them all the way in?'

No. 2 turns out is always a good starting place for needle valves. When screwing in to the stop, go very gently, then count your turns out. If the valves were not needed, I'm sure they wouldn't be there. Usually, one is the idle and the other is the hi-speed mixture control. 2 turns might be rich, but will be easier to start. You can refine the settings after it warms up.

back: Follow Sax's advice once your engine has reached operating temp . Start at 1-1/2 turns out on both jets and fine tune from there .

i have another question about de-carbonizing the piston. can i remove the head and and remove the carbon build up on the piston without removing the piston and then clean it with water? i dont want to change the rings out. just wanted to know if that would hurt the engine. thanks

I have some bad news for you.

Your 22035 is fitted with a Suzuki 2 stroke (which is good) and should have electronic ignition.

However, the Mikuni BV-15 has a fixed Main Jet, either a #80 or a #76.3. Only idle mixture can be adjusted. 1 1/2 turns is good initial setting for idle jet.

Also, head is not removable on the Suzuki. You must full disassemble the engine to get access to crown of piston and combustion chamber. All you can do with engine together is clean the exhaust ports and the muffler. Suggest you use wooden stick for that job and nothing metallic, as piston and cylinder are easily scratched.

Your best bet would be to purchase the Toro/Suzuki Service Manual 492-0260. Google that number; should be $6 to $8 for a paper copy. I can also sell you a PDF copy.

Back : As GG has indicated BV-15 Mikuni Slide carbs are offered with Adjustable Main and Secondary Idle Circuit Jets also with Fix Main Jet with Variable Orifice Sized Replacement Jets . As far as the decarbonizing there are two theories of practical solution. You could try the fine water spray application during high idle to break down the crown carbon deposits or go with a chemical concentrated fuel injector cleaner & top end lubricant that either Lucas or Duralube offers , which will gradually reduce your current carbon fouling of the head and rings or in a 4-stroke application reduce carbon on Valve Train Components also . As for scratching or etching the Piston Crown gg is correct in that small scratches can develop into cracks and have potential for premature piston failure.

A good way to clean carbon deposits long term is to start using Seafoam in your gas/oil mixture. It will slowly break it down while you are using it and actually bring your compression up by removing carbon deposits in the piston ring grooves freeing them for higher comp.

I would advise you leave the engine alone if its running good. Parts are difficult to find and expensive as hell. Use the seafoam and not water!