Advice for pruning odd-shaped young apple tree

15 years ago

Howdy-

I'm providing a link to 2 images of our tree so you can see what I'm talking about. We received this baby apple, which is now about 3' tall in the mail this past spring. I don't see a central leader. It's in a V shape, with one very straight, but weaker-looking branch, and a thicker, sturdier branch that looks ill-shaped to be the leader. What to do in this case?

It almost seems as if I'd be better off cutting it down to the ground below the V, but know nothing about whether the tree could survive this.

Thanks in advance!

Here are the pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/39865012@N08/

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Comments (6)

alan haigh
15 years ago
If you just go with the smaller straight leader (trunk) you won't lose much time but if you don't mind a bit of a crook you can always use a straight stake to straighten the larger leader somewhat. I just use vinyl electric tape to tightly bind a trunk to a straight wooden or metal stake. As the tree grows a slight crook will become less noticeable but some like completely straight trees. One or the other should be removed.
hillbilly_hydro
15 years ago
I have seen trees like this before it is caused by using 2 scions in a cleft graft which is common but generally they remove the weaker growing one after the first year .looks like they missed yours so choose the one you want to keep and remove the other one...I'm with harv I would keep the stronger one and just do what he suggested.
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windfall_rob
15 years ago
Harvestman knows far more than I on this, but are you sure the smaller shoot is coming from above the graft? A leaf blocks the shot, but it looks a lot like a shoot coming off the rootstock just below where the cultivar got budded on. I have certainly seen some budded trees get a sway like that.
If so, you have to keep the other side.

Hillbilly,
I don't think many nurseries are cleft grafting their whips. It is usualy either budding or toung and whip.
Scott F Smith
15 years ago
Rob I'm pretty sure the graft line is still visible right below the branching point.

I often pick a shoot going off to the side to make the central leader and just stake it in that position, and in a year or two the tree agrees with me :-)

Scott
windfall_rob
15 years ago
scott you are definitely right. i had only looked at the smaller image. graft is clear in the blow up. sorry for any confusion arugala.
hillbilly_hydro
15 years ago
rob,
generally you are right , but I have seen where a few have had leftover rootstock that was to large for toung and whip and they used cleft instead of budding.....though it is usually only done by someone that they are teaching to graft and since they normally start by having them grafting pear and apples it's no big deal to them to trim it following the first seasons growth. Ive worked with some of the large nurseries and seen it tho once they learn to bud they wont use cleft again unless topworking and even then only if it cant be budded.