I would suggest Pink Lady, Sundowner, and Granny Smith. In your climate you should be able to grow very good examples of each of those varieties. The Granny Smith should be much, much better than what you can buy. The difference will surprise you. As for the fourth tree it is hard to argue with your area's heirloom, Gravenstein. I wouldn't grow it here, but if it has been working there then go for it. And with those mentioned above, you would like to have an earlier apple, which describes Gravenstein.
I don't think I would grow Fuji as they have become ubiquitous. Although it might taste better than what you can buy.
You should find out if fireblight is a problem in your area. If so then Pink Lady can be a problem.

Geraldo,

Thank you! I really appreciate the info, guess i am placing some orders this weekend!

Geraldo gave some excellent suggestions, but they are weighted on the late-ripening end, November into December around here. Hawaii and Williams' Pride are two early ones that bear over a month in August, Hawaii even later than that. Fuji is worth growing just because it is so superior to the supermarket ones.

thnx applenut! i can't find sundowner in m27, so I guess I will take another look at Hawaii and Williams Pride.

having to go M27 is really limiting my options I am afraid!

Personally, I won't limit myself to M27. Planting the trees in pots will limit their size just by itself. I think M9 and similiar size rootstock would work just fine. Probably M26 as well. In fact, the extreme dwarfs like M27 can runt out on you at a very small size even when planted in the ground. Don't let an M27 bear a lot of fruit until it has reached the size you want. Once it bears a large crop, it's not going to get much bigger no matter what you do.

The Fruitnut

Good advice from Fruitnut to which I'd like to add that the size of the cultivar is almost as important as the rootstock. Gravenstein is a triploid and therefore very vigorous. It is widely considered the best early pie apple, by the way. Nobody I know cooks Fuji, I think it would be extremely flat with its relative acid deficiency. Williams pride isn't the cooking type either- up where I am Pristine would be better for this purpose, but who bakes in mid-summer?

Pots are very dwarfing-I should know-I have about 400 trees in pots on my property right now and pots will definately reduce a trees vigor by at least 30%, probably more. Of course when roots escape from the pots it's another matter.

Another reason to listen to Fruitnut is he is almost a local. Before you choose varieties you should get as much local advice as you can from devout fruit worshippers. A person in WA or NY (like me) likely has unreliable experience for your conditions. The best would be to find a local who has some apples to taste.

Google Nafex (North American Fruit Explorers) and consider becomming a member as they have a lot of information resources for anyone interested in fruit growing.Also their memborship tends to be more experienced than a lot of people on this web site.

sorry I am last posting back - all my neighbors are out of town and I am trying to house sit - having trouble getting back to my computer this week.

Question? The pots I have set aside to use are probably at least 45 - 50 gallon. Would that still dwarf apple trees that much? I have read there is lots of problems w/ M27 - I would gladly go to Bud 9 if I can raise them in containers instead!

Someone on the Nafex message board mentioned having apples in winebarrels, I'll try to get to her but I have some experience with 30 gallon pots and a Bartlett pear in one bore a moderate crop in one this year on seedling rootstock. So did a Jonagold apple on 106. The trees are about 2" diameter. My guess is your pots will be fine for the 9. You can always fill the pots 2/3 up and lift and add more potting soil later after trees begin bearing.