.. one other thing I just remembered: during one winter I tried covering with agribon-50, a very heavy rowcover. This kept many of the leaves on since it lets light in. The reason why I stopped using it is they were in the same row as figs and the figs did not like the agribon at all, it was not a warm enough cover for them. So there is some chance that agribon or similar could get them through the winter for you. Then if the bloom/harvest would only work it may be possible.

Scott

If light is the issue, try making a foamboard shelter for the plant, and put a couple of CFC lights in there -- cheap to operate and would provide plenty of light for the plant.

Cold and pineapple guava do not mix. Winter damage is sometimes seen in USDA 8. Plant is native to Brazil.

I suspect zone 6 is a little harsh for this plant. In Portland (Oregon), the bush will drop all it's leaves if the winter low is 18 or 20 degrees for a couple of days. The defoliation is complete by February.

My plant has always re-leafed, re-bloomed, and fruited after such winters. Will have to wait for single-digit temperatures to find out more.

This year's harvest is currently at its peak.

There is definitely a continuum of habit here: California harvest is long gone by now; mine is at peak, and further north or lower zone, bloom is iffy and fruit is rare, judging by quite a few forum postings over the years.

I am curious what counselling zone 6 nurseries are giving for buyers of this plant.

I have a few plants in containers that I keep in my greenhouse. They are very fast growers and need repotting every couple years. They do bloom and set a light crop. I'll probably keep it in the pot no need to go through all that trouble.
Thank for the advices.
Bass

I grew a handful of seedlings last year, they were fine over the winter (potted indoors) and grew well this past summer once I had potted them up. I've got half a dozen or so and in time I might try one or two outside in the ground.

Are your potted ones blooming or are you looking to simplify things by not having to move pots in and out each year?

~Chills

Bass, you may want to try molesting the flowers by hand or brush to move some pollen around, unless your greenhouse generates a significant internal breeze.

My potted trees bloom in the spring, at that time I place them outside and they get pollinated. These trees are very vigorous and they get root bounded quickly in a pot. I will probably have to place them into a 25 gallon and root prune them every couple years.

Bass

hi bass,
I also plan to experiment with pineapple guava. I'll plant about four inground in my greenhouse. there are also self-pollinating varieties which are better suited for this kind of planting.
If you plant yours inground, you can airlayer them to get a backup.
I wish you warm winters :)

I killed several plants trying to grow them here in MD w/o protection. My last attempt was when I put them next to the house (south facing side), hoping that it will help me to push my zone a little up, but it didn't work anyway.
My husband is crazy about their taste and I love them too, so I was trying hard :(
Olga

I know this is an old thread, but I also live in Maryland. I just read Dr. Ackerman's advice about growing Camellias in Cold Climate (https://camelliashop.com/archives/50) and I think a lot of his advice may also apply to Feijoas. Did anyone try planting them on the North / West side of a house to protect them from morning / noon sun during the winter? I've previously tried feijoas and gardenias on my southern side but they all got leaf burn. After reading the article I almost feel like trying feijoas again.

Zone 6 for a feijoa makes this a moot point. A mature plant can survive and regrow from +5 degrees, but current year bloom is lost if winter temps are +15.

Leaf burn starts in the low 20's, but the plant can recover from this and produce fruit the same year if bloom starts early enough (no later than June).

This is the comment I was looking for. Tells me everything I wanted to know.