Purple leaves means a lack of Phosphorous, Phosphorous is the P in NPK that you see in fertilizers.

Use a seaweed foliar spray or liquid manure made from fish extracts for immediate results. These products stimulate the enzyme system of plants, making them more efficient at absorbing phosphorous from the soil. Alternatively, work Blood and Bone or rock phosphate into the soil where it can be reached by the roots. Water well.

Phosphorous (phosphate) is the nutrient most responsible for the promotion of fruiting, flowering and rooting. It is essential for vegetables, annual and perennial flowers, bulbs and young transplants. But unlike nitrogen, phosphorous does not move much in the soil. That means it must be mixed into the soil prior to planting, or at least scratched into the top inch or so of soil to have a benefit to plants.

Probably the richest organic source of phosphorous is raw bone meal. It contains about 22 percent phosphorous. Other good sources include; ground rock phosphate, guano, fish meal and cotton seed meal. Apply bone meal and ground rock phosphate at the rate of 2 to 5 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area.

Hope this helps :)

Adding Greensand and Bone Meal this year is not going to help much this year, next year and years after probably but it takes time for the soil bacteria do make the phosphorus in those products available.
If phosphorus does not move very readily through the soil, why is excess phosphorus such a problem in lakes and streams encouraging weed and algae blooms.

Kimmsr,
The P in polluted water sources is from runoff of phosphorus-rich topsoil, manures and P-rich fertilizers applied too close to the soil surface in areas exposed to erosion forces. Greenhouse & feedlot wastewater are also responsible. P does not leach vertically through the soil like nitrate does.

Thank you Termater. I have never used the fish emulsion but have heard of it. I will buy some today.
I ended up tilling my homemade organic fertilizer into the soil and resetting the plants.
I don't know if I can keep up this notill method. Is there a forum for it?
Thirty years of organic gardening and I am ready to throw in the towel on the veggys. Now my Muscovies have eaten my corn stalks down to stubs and I like them int the garden to eat bugs.
I must say that I have done the mulching thing with my perennial beds for all these years and have beautiful flowers. I am having a difficult time establishing the veggy garden with this notill system.

Sounds like you need more responses, and I suppose it is just a busy time in the garden for everyone. Wish I had the expertise to help you out, but unfortunately not. Give it a few days...especially if we get some rainy weather . If you don't get more responses, I would repost with a different subject line. Try "New to No-Till System..plants not doing well, what's wrong?" or something like that.

Good luck,
Adam

It takes more than one season to see the benefits of no till. After three years, my very hard clay soil is manageable and quite dark in many places. The plants are healthier too. Your problem is not with the paper and manure. When you plant seedlings, dig a hole and amend in the hole (add compost). After awhile it all adds up. I find that plants with deep roots do a lot to help the soil. I leave plants in the garden and let them go to seed for two or three reasons. First, I save seed and grow enough to feed our family for almost nothing! Second, the flowering of those vegetables after you have harvested will attract good insects. Third, worms are attracted to the roots as they decay. Next season, I'll pull, say the brocolli and plant garlic in the same holes. And keep adding compost all the time. It will break down. Every year will get better.

Some people get discouraged because it "doesn't work" the first season. Wait and you will see good soil and good insects. And lots of worms to till it for you. Throw your grass clippings on that paper too.