Bestlawn would shoot me, but for the Common Folk, go with a good Rebel mix off the shelf at any big box store. What's sold locally should do reasonably well, if not perfectly.

Water 2 times a day during seed germination (once would do if it absolutely had to, but your losses will be high). Taper off once the lawn is in (2-3 weeks) by watering less often but more--increasing the amount, decreasing frequency.

Feed. Don't use the four step program, and don't feed in summer. Once lightly in late spring, two to three times in very late summer into fall.

Mow as high as you can stand, and before you're cutting off 1/3 the height of the grass. Mulch-mow at all times unless you have a disease.

Just with the basics you'll have a nice lawn. Not stellar perhaps, but nice.

Any modifications are up to you. Instructions to pamper the grass is only so it has the chance to mature with no stress. It doesn't mean not to walk on it at all. It does have to be mowed after all. It's just to prevent heavy traffic for as long as possible. Damage is more likely during the early stage after seeding, and it has to be strong enough to endure its first winter. I should warn that no grass can endure two dogs. You might want to give them their own section of the yard to increase your chance of getting as close to a golf course lawn as possible.

1. Get a soil test. Call your nearest state university extension service for a test kit and sampling instructions. I don't know what state you live in or I would link you to the extension service. It will likely take two weeks for results. If you need to apply sulfur, lime, or any other amendment per test recommendation (that is not applied in Step 5), you can do it after seeding if you don't get results back in time. The soil test will determine nutrient level and pH balance most importantly.

2. Mow to within one and half inches, but mow it down gradually. Cut off 1/3 the grass blade and another 1/3 three or four days later. Repeat if necessary.

3. Rake it up

4. Core aerate or cheat and apply Nitron A-35 to relieve soil compaction.

5. Fertilize

6. Sow seeds (slit seeding is best). If you want to slit seed, then don't core aerate and apply Nitron instead.

7. Topdress 1/4 inch layer compost, peat moss, or clean straw (weed-free). (One cu. yard/1000 sqft).

8.
water 15-20 minutes twice a day for two weeks
water 20-30 minutes once a day for one week
water 30-45 minutes once a day every other day for one week
water 30-45 minutes once a day twice a week for one week
move into deep irrigation, increasing the time to provide 1 inch of water all over and decreasing the frequency to just once a week.

Starting off, the schedule supplies roughly 1/4 inch of water, then increases that amount while decreasing frequency of application at the same time. Like practically everything that concerns lawn care, this schedule is a general guideline and should be modified to accomodate your specific conditions. The lengths of time should be modified if you have an automatic sprinkler system since that will not take as long to provide adequate moisture. So, decrease amount of water (time) but maintain frequency as is. The tuna cans test is recommended. If it is still especially warm, you may want to irrigate 3 times a day (10-15 minutes if necessary) for that first couple weeks. Your objective is to keep the upper 1 inch of soil moist and not let the seeds dry out.

9. Baby the grass for the rest of the year. Don't walk on it if at all possible.

10. First mowing is when the new grass reaches two inches. However, the existing grass will be considerably taller, so you'll have to mow down gradually again to the point of mowing 1/3 off the new grass. You do want to get the new grass mowed early at this time in order to promote tillering. Then, you want to gradually raise the mowing height to desired length of 2.5 inches. Higher if you prefer.

I appreciate that, morpheuspa.
Starter fertilizer, yes?
And then how long for something (what?) else?
Thank you.
Paul

Was busy make adjustments and didn't see you there Morpheus, but won't shoot either. Actually, the Rebels are quite nice. I do have a concern of not knowing where Notes lives before recommending seeds. He just might be a little too northern for tall fescue. But, perhaps he told us the state he lives in somewhere and I missed it.

Forgot to link you to a maintenance schedule. Near the top of the thread outlined in red.

No problem, Paul! Starter fertilizer, yes. Anything with a high number in the second position is great. Scott's or Vigoro is just fine and they should be right next to the seed.

The next fertilization depends a lot. Call it four to six weeks after the lawn starts to really sprout (or, when you first look at it, smile, and think, "Lawn!"). I'd feed at half the rate, and then do it again in another month. By that time it's moving into November. Feed one last time at full strength around Thanksgiving (earlier if there's snow at that date). It'll give your grass stronger roots and a good start in spring.

One dog suggestion. I have three and no real issues, but they never use the same section of lawn twice in a row. We go out on our leashes (believe me, I'm as leashed to them as they are to me) and move eight feet per visit. By the time I make it all the way around at least a week's gone by. More probably two. There are no urine markings because it never has a chance to concentrate.

If you let them out, you might want to try to restrict it, as Bestlawn says. That area will never look great, but at least you can restrict the damage.

During seeding is the one time I do restrict it. We're using one area of lawn right now and I've accepted that it's not going to look great from all the walking and...gifts...left on it. Still, it's managing just fine so far. I'll reseed as necessary.

"Mulch-mow at all times unless you have a disease."

Actually, I think you can still mulch mow if you have a disease, but if the grass has a disease, you may want to bag the clippings. Please don't throw things. I know it's a bad joke. I just couldn't help myself.

"4. Core aerate or cheat and apply Nitron A-35 to relieve soil compaction."

Isn't one of the reasons for core aeration prior to overseeding to increase seed to soil contact? The Nitron will help with water penetration and so forth, but not with the soil contact. I didn't aerate this year, but a couple of sprinkler heads broke (and from the looks of things it must have happened just after the last inspection). I just raked out the dead grass to get a lot of bare dirt.

"I do have a concern of not knowing where Notes lives before recommending seeds. . . . But, perhaps he told us the state he lives in somewhere and I missed it."

Actually, Notes said eastern Iowa. Eastern Iowa has parts in the USDA hardiness zones 4a, 4b and 5a, though. How cold is too cold for fescue?

The folks linked below recommend fescues, but what the heck do I know?

I think you can still mulch mow if you have a disease

AAARRRGGGHHH! :-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Turfgrasses for Iowa

Oops, don't know how I missed Eastern Iowa. Sorry about that.

BP, the purpose of the steps above is not to enumerate the benefits of each practice nor explain how to do them all. It is only to enumerate the order in which to do them. Step 4 provides an alternative for dealing with compacted soil. Nothing more. The question was not asked here and therefore not answered, so there's no need to take the steps out of context. Many people, including me and probably you too, have explained the benefits of core aerating in several other threads.

Excellent stuff, folks. I appreciate it - and I can understand it. ;=)
I looked up the Rebel seeds, and a few of the posts discussing it directed me to this -
Scotts Pure Premium Heat-Tolerant Blue Grass Seed.
Sounds like the best of both worlds with both tall fescue and KBG, but I await your judgement.
Eastern Iowa, close to Cedar Rapids. Zone 5? It gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter. Imagine that. ;=)
Thanks yet again.
Paul

I live in central Iowa. Aaron Copland wrote his "Fanfare" for guys like me...(grin)

I have had very good luck with Rebel Exeda and Sentry TTTF. I over-seeded my KBG/Rye lawn in 2005 and 2006 and had very good germination without excessive irrigation.

I don't irrigate my lawn and the Rebel has done well during the hot dry parts of the summer.

Of course, your results might vary.

Cool. You not only know grass seed - you know Copland too!
Did you mix the two 50/50?
Hope it's tough stuff, 'cause it sometimes looks like a "Rodeo" in the backyard when both dogs get going.
Glad to hear you don't need an "Appalachian Spring" running through your yard for it to grow.
Okay. I'll stop now.
Paul