1. Be absolutely sure the soil surface drains properly, is settled (not fluffy), and is P-E-R-F-E-C-T-L-Y level (no little holes or hills). Think "putting green." Bermuda should be mowed at your mower's lowest setting so small surface imperfections result in scalping the grass. Keep the soil moist. Water it every day at least once. This will do two things. First of all it will help sprout weed seeds that you would not have seen under the bermuda sod. Secondly it will help the beneficial microbes living in the soil get established. I know you're wondering about fertilizer. Since you don't have roots to take up the fertilizer, that would be a waste of money and time. Don't fertilize until you have mowed the grass for the second time. After the sod is down, be sure your contractor rolls it down to get good sod-to-soil contact. Roots cannot grow through the air to reach the soil. If they don't roll it down, make a mental note not to use that contractor for anything in the future. Then go out and rent a roller from your local equipment rental or your nursery. Rollers can be filled with water to adjust the weight. All you need to do is push the sod down.

2. I'm an organic guy and have been for years, so I can't help you with this. If you wanted to use corn gluten meal as a preemergent, it goes down when the forsythia are in full bloom in YOUR neighborhood.

3. Check into Lesco brand fertilizers. If you are out in the country you might have to check with a tractor supply store. Feed stores seem to carry other odd brands but not Lesco. Don't even thing of using a fertilizer already mixed with weed control. These are called weed-n-feed. They have an inherent problem with timing. Weeds die best after they have been fertilized. Unfortunately when you apply the two products together, by the time the weeds are growing well enough to take up the herbicide, the herbicide is worn out or washed away. It is FAR better to fertilize with a real fertilizer, then two weeks later spot spray individual weeds with something like Weed-B-Gone. That way you are not spreading unneeded herbicide over the entire lawn.

4. The only place you will get good gardening advice locally is from a nursery that has been around for 10 years. These are usually family owned. It is the owners who have the experience, but remember, they are trying to sell you stuff that you may or may not need. Scotts is DEFINITELY selling stuff you don't need (weed-n-feed is a prime example). Your feed store is the next best bet for information. Or you can search this forum and other Internet forums for "bermuda" and "alabama" for more info.

Well I wrote the Bermuda Bible so maybe I can help?

If you live in Alabama, I assure you that you are not in Zone 2. That zone would be near the North or South poles and you would have permafrost.

1. In addition to what Dave told you, all you have to do is keep the sod very well watered until it is rooted. Depending on your weather conditions this may mean several watering per day or once a day. Depends on how warm and windy it is.

As for a starter or winterizer, forget those Scott's marketing terms. Once you have mowed 2 or 3 times apply a straight 39-0-0 fertilizer. Then for the last application of the year about 30 days before your first frost and 30 days after the last application apply a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 fertilizer in lieu of a soil test.

2. The two best pre-emergence herbicides are AMAZE by Greenlight, and products that contain Dimension. I prefer AMAZE because it last longer and controls more. ACe Hardware and Home Depot carry the products seasonably.

3. Well you can use SCOTT's if you want, but they are about the most expensive and ineffective product you can buy IMHO. That is the reason you cannot find the ratios you are looking for, they don't make them period. Scott's products are formulated for Midwestern soils in Ohio where it is made. Midwestern soil are rich in potassium, and that is why you will never find Scott's product with very much if any potassium at all.

You want to find a LESCO dealer in your area. They will have everything you need. Now with that said when I wrote 3-1-2 (15-5-10) and 4-1-2 (20-5-10) that was a recommendation in lieu of a soil test once a year. I suggest you have your soil tested. When you get the results back, ignore the nitrogen recommendation and zero in on potassium and phosphorus recommendation. That will tell you the exact ratio you need to apply one time in either spring or late fall. So for example if they tell you that you need 1 pound of potassium, and 1 pound of phosphorous per 1000/ft2, then you go buy a bag of 10-10-10.

Last comment most Home Depots carries LESCO 15-5-10. Keep in mind though you only apply a balanced fertilizer once per year. All other applications is straight nitrogen like 39-0-0 or 36-0-0. Think LESCO.

How did the contractor grade the property? I wish I would have known then...what I know now. To get the best start with a really flat, level area, they need to use a tractor and box blade vs. a skid steer (aka Bobcat) like most do.
I can't emphasise enough (per TW) how important it is to start with a level surface...if you want a really nice bermuda lawn.

thanks guys for the quick responses and great answeres nd advice. i assure you all are greatly appreciated.
i will definitely check into the lesco products. i didnt really think that scotts products were that good but due to lack of info/availability i figured id try it. thank god i found this site.

thanks for the emergence reccomendations. i was completely lost on that one. i just really didnt want to kill my bermuda lol.

they are actually starting in the morning and i work night shift all weekend(and i have to have sleep because with my job it could be a matter of life and death) so i wont be there to watch them. (i think i forgot to mention this is a new construction home). i do have a drainage dith running through the best part of the yard but i spoke witht eh contractor and its the county engineers that put that in for drainage but he said he would shallow it up. i may have to do something with that at a later date. depending on options.

but again thank you guys very much for the quick responses and very helpful info.

Hold off on any pre or post emergence until next spring. Let the grass get rooted in and acclimated to the new environment.