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james_hoon

Fescue care, help pls....

19 years ago

I need some help for my tiny lawn about 150-200 sq feet, It is soded tall fescue blend. The lawn area only get 4 hours sun. I live in So Cal, moreno valley to be exact.

What is the best fertilizer for this kind of grass? I've check and most recommend is 16-4-8.

Second is how to water the recommendation is 1-1.5 inch per week. I have a clay soil with a little of treatment and water with hose. As of now I water everyday in the morning about 5-7 minute. Some said to deep water once a week but I'm afraid that my clay soil will not absorb water deep enough at one irrigation per week.

This is really confuse me since I think that grass need a lot of water a lot of houses set up sprinkler system two times a day. Everywhere I goes have thick green grass and tell me that grass need a lot of water. I don't dare to only water my grass once a week, please advise what is the right way to water my grass.

Thanks

James

BTW I found a lot of brown spot and thinking about reseeding my lawn since Sep-Nov is the best time to reseeding this type of soil. Where can I find this type of fescue grass locally? or which type should that more shade tolerate and can be mixed with fescue?

Comments (4)

  • 19 years ago

    The brown spot is probably from overwatering. Cut it back and the situation may resolve itself.

    Light, frequent watering encourages very thin, shallow root systems that can't tolerate a drought. More or less, it doesn't grow roots because it doesn't have to.

    During hot periods...most of the time where you are, I think!...twice a week is very much enough, 0.5" to 0.75" at a time. Cooler periods are around an inch all at once, once a week. Subtract any rainfall from that total.

    Clay soils do have trouble absorbing water. Mine does. Fortunately, for a lawn that small you can use one single sprinkler and cycle it, 15 minutes on and 15 off, to give the soil time to absorb. On the up side, clay soil holds a LOT of water once it does get wet. The time you water doesn't matter so much, but with brown spot please avoid watering in the evenings. That just encourages it!

    For now, stop watering. Once the grass shows signs of stress (when you walk, it doesn't spring back up in a few minutes), water it as above. You'll have to test to see what you're putting out--a tuna can works well, or an old coffee can.

    You'll slowly adjust it to longer waterings, deepen the root systems, and waste a lot less water. Quite a bit of the 5-7 minute watering is evaporating off and getting lost.

    For seeding, the rules differ--2 to 4 times a day watering, about 10-15 minutes at a time to get the seed going.

    Fertilizer...a soil test would tell you what you really need, but barring that a good balanced fertilizer in the 4-1-2 proportion is a good bet. 16-4-8 would be perfect, but if you can only find, say, 24-2-6 then use that. Just get as close as you can.

    Fescues are already some of the most shade-tolerant grasses, although others will have much better suggestions than I would. I'm a Kentucky bluegrass person myself.

  • 19 years ago

    With a yard that small I wouldn't bother with seeding....just buy new sod

  • 19 years ago

    So if I reseeding it will interfere with my schedule watering then. I plan to cut back and may be water about twice a week from now on and reduce to once a week when it get colder. I hope after fertilized plus adjust water schedule and cool temperature the grass will create new growth.

    Thanks
    James

    BTW I plan to buy only one fertilizer for all my plants due to I don't have enough storage. Is that 16-4-8 suitable for fruit tree as well? I do have bananas, raspberries, tomatos, jujube, some herbs, and gardenia. I also have 5 roses but that I bought fertilizer made just for roses.

  • 19 years ago

    the grass will create new growth.

    Fescue isn't known for spreading very much, and it doesn't tiller out like bluegrass does. Yes, it'll grow some, but probably not enough for you to be happy about it. Reseeding's the only way to do that.

    Is that 16-4-8 suitable for fruit tree as well?

    I wouldn't think so, but I am no expert on fruit trees. If memory serves, most flowering plants, at least, want a lot less nitrogen and a lot more phosphorous. My annuals and perennials get a 1-1-1 balance, the grass a 7-2-1.