On most lawns, clippings should be returned to help recycle nutrients to the soils. If the lawn is mowed frequently enough, clippings cause few problems. Although many people believe that clippings contribute to thatch, research has shown that clippings are readily decomposed by microbial action.

Thatch is the intermingled layer of already dead and decomposing organic matter on top of the soil and below the leaf blades. The tougher shoot components such as stems, rhizomes, and stolons are not easily degraded and do contribute to thatch. Problems may also arise when turf is mowed infrequently and excess clippings (e.g., clumping) result. When this happens, clippings can be raked to distribute them more evenly.

Yes I agree 100% with SkootCat. Clumping is often confused with thatch and lets not forget there are some publications out there advising that it can contribute to thatch on zoysia but you haven't got that. Just don't let the grass get that long in between mowings where you're cutting off significantly more than a third of the leaf blade. And don't over fertilize.

In most cases, mulching can actually help get rid of thatch, because it helps the decomposition. The exception to the rule is that at least some (maybe all, I don't know much about zoysia) types of zoysia can develop thatch problems when mulch mowed.

Thatch is usually caused by too much fertilizer and/or frequent shallow watering.

I agree with the above comments. If you don't believe them, I can post links to studies.

-Deerslayer

Fertilizing 2-3 times a season is more likely to cause thatch than grass clippings.

Fertilize 2-3 times in fall
1 time in spring (May)
0 times in summer

That is, unless you're on an organic program

But ... in *my opinion* mulching looks terribly sloppy!

And mulching leaves with the mower in fall, looks sloppy too ... *in my world.*
Please, I don't mean to insult. YMMV, just appearance is something to consider.

Then, you're doing something wrong. You should never see mulched grass or leaves except on the ground, and then those are blown or swept away. If you see them in/on the grass, you need to sharpen the blades and be sure to never remove more than 1/3 the grass blade at a time (as was mentioned). Letting the grass grow too long only to cut it down to normal height is not good anyway, but yes that will look sloppy. Mow properly and the grass looks just as manicured as not mulching.

Gary--are you using a mulching more or a regular mower?

If you're using a regular mower (especially a side discharge mower) and simply leaving the grass on the lawn, you're probably going to end up with unsightly clumps whether you're mowing grass or leaves.

I've had two mulching mowers. One was a side discharge mower with a plate that could be used to cover the discharge chute. The other was a rear bagger where a flap covered the rear discharge if the bag was not attached. The purpose of covering the discharge is to keep the grass under the deck longer so it gets cut repeatedly, leading to finer clippings that drop down to the surface.

There are also special blades that will cut the grass into smaller pieces. I believe these can be used with standard side discharge mowers to avoid the clumps on the lawn.

I can't speak to those using primarily chemical fertilizers on cool season grasses, but my experience is that if you go to mostly organic fert and mulch mow, you'll never ever have problems with thatch. A healthy soil system simply decomposes it before it gets to problem levels.

> Gary--are you using a mulching more or a regular mower?

Yes, a mulching rear bagger with a spring loaded flipper.

Another reason I do not mulch is that I have Merion Bluegrass. It is so easily diseased, I need to remove (sick) clippings. Merion is also prone to thatch simply because of the very high nitrogen it requires too.(@ 6lbs X 1000ft2 each year) It's a catch 22.

Personally, I think my self-propelled mower travels too fast to mulch properly. Merion is so thick, that before the blades can get mulched fine, the machine is chomping forward for more. If I disengage the self propel, I do get my work out, making my doctor happy I guess! I was considering trying a Gator blade. Maybe then, my mulching would look better, but I'd still be contending with disease.

Bestlawn will probably suggest that R word for my Merion :-)

But ... in *my opinion* mulching looks terribly sloppy!

Then you need a better mower. I always mulch mow. There is never so much as a singe clump of grass in my lawn.

(I've got a Toro SR4. It does a tremendous job mulching -- even if I let the grass get too long between cuts).

Bestlawn will probably suggest that R word for my Merion :-)
hahahahahaha!!! Oh, you know me too well, I can't get away with anything LOL. If you like it, I will suggest adding newer or improved varieties to get some diversity into it. That will provide some disease protection. What is good about Merion is its tolerance to lower mowing heights, so managing it along with the newer ones won't be as difficult as is common to blending old and new varieties. I expect it will grow a little faster, but your objective is preventing devestation. I have to say you seem very conscientious concerning it.

Having the decaying clippings sit on top of the lawn does detract from the appearance even if it is subtle. The clipping loses their color and turn brown so when viewed at a distance the whole lawn can sometimes look lighter after a few days. Cutting off very little at a time works to solve this so does watering after a mowing so the clipping wash down.

Posted by bestlawn 6 (My Page) on Wed, Nov 14, 07 at 11:53

If you like it, I will suggest adding newer or improved varieties to get some diversity into it.

* From my heart, I would truly appreciate that very much. I'll start a thread so not to hijack this one.

Moonlight and Bedazzled are all you need.