What do you mean by 'based upon' the Square Foot gardening mix?

If your growing medium is made of vermiculite, compost and peat then the pH is most certainly not 7.9, it would be under 7.0. The extension service is wrong.

Did you use native soil in the mix? If so you pretty much screwed yourself by mixing something requiring improvement with something that doesn't (SqFt mix). The point of the mix in Sq Ft Gardening is to never have to fertilize or deal with pH in order to grow successfully.

Anyway, post back what is actually in those beds please.

Most likely you can offset the pH with more compost since it is such a limited volume of growing medium.

Along with the test results from the Extension service should have been recommended quatities of "stuff" to add to correct the problems found from that soil test, ie. add X pounds of sulfur per 1,000 square feet to change the pH x amount. If it is not there you did not get a full report.

I followed the recepefrom the book as close as I could. I used peat moss, vermiculite, mushroom compost, composted chicken manure and composted cow manure. I did not mix in native soil.
I had three beds tested and all were very alkyline am growing some vegs in one bed and scarlet clover in the other two. None of the plants look healthy, which is why I had the soil test done to begin with. Funny thing the report had sugestions but was only not to lime (that I could find ) The report has a numbr to call for info and I will call today.
Thanks, Tim

Tim, be sure to tell whomever you talk to that yours is an artificial (soil-less) mix.

4 pounds of sulfur on 150 sq feet will drop the pH to approx 6.5 in a soil with a typical CEC. If your soil is sandy use less, if it has a whole lot of sticky clay it may take more. It is best to till it in and will take several weeks to react.

Thanks fertilizersalesman,
What type of sulphur would you recomend I know of several types, aluminum sulphate, amonium sulphate. What type of sulphur were you speaking of.
Thanks, Tim

fertilizer salesman,

The mix in use is part vermiculite, part compost, part peat. I wouldn't know how to adjust the sulfur rate for such a medium.

I also can't fathom such a medium having a pH of 7.9.

My guess is Rhizo is hinting that the lab tests simply are not accurate with a soilless medium. It is the rare university set up to measure the nutrients in organic matter as well so the nutrient levels in the bed should *not* be added to based upon the lab results.

Honestly I don't think there is any value to a soil test when using a soilless medium. It is a different world.

Not only will the soil test results be 'iffy', but the recommendations (as in pounds of whatever per 1000ft2) would be different, I would think.

The sulfur I was refering to was just plain elemental sulfur. If you use aluminum sulfate you have to use 6.4 times as much.

This would not apply to potting media like peat. These materials do not have the same buffering capacity as soil and would require much much less to change the pH. I have had very little experience with soilless media, but enough to know that the pH and nutrient levels change very quickly. This is why most soilless production is under constatnt or near constant feed. I think soil tests for soilless media are good enough, particularly for pH, but I would expect the conditions to have completely changed by the time to results got back from the lab.