Jimmy, how old is the plant; how large is the plant; how large is the pot; how old is the soil in which it's planted; how well does it drain; what, if anything, have you fertilized it with and when is the last time you fertilized it? What are the temps there now where it's growing? How close is it to walls where reflected, radiated heat may be cooking it? What kind of pot is it growing in? Is that pot sitting on a concrete or stone surface which might be reflecting and radiating heat which might be cooking it? Have you investigated if the soil is souring due to over watering and poor drainage? There are MANY reasons why it may be turning yellow, from being cooked, to being over watered, rotting, under nourished, over fed by a too large dose of fertilizer (either organic or inorganic). Hopefully, with answers to these questions we may be able to help you with some ideas. Kim

Only my Felicite that seems to be affected, while my other roses are doing fine. I thought the yellowing canes is common to old garden roses? The plastic pot keeps knocking over several times... I think it's the soil. I'm going to repot her soon and hope for the best, otherwise it would be a waste of a new pot and potting mix if she ends up with more canes dying.,.

Yellowing canes are not common to OGRs or any other type of rose. They are indicative of a stressed plant. Repotting MAY, or may NOT help. It all depends upon what is causing the stress, which none of us are able to help diagnose with the lack of information given. So, good luck. Kim

how old is the plant;
2-3 season with me.
how large is the plant
1.5 m tall
how large is the pot;
45cm diameter; 45cm tall
how well does it drain
the soil doesn't look well drain compare to my other potted roses.
Have you investigated if the soil is souring due to over watering and poor drainage?
the soil looks very soggy/clay-y after watering... so I think this is the problem.
have you fertilized it with and when is the last time you fertilized it
manure pellets...don't think this is the problem consider other roses are fed the same.

From your description of the soil I'd say drainage is the problem. Repot it into a lighter potting soil mix that will have very good drainage. And what ever pot you use make sure it has a lot of drainage holes and there are no spots where water will collect and sit inside the pot. When you're done with that make sure the pot is up on something and not sitting directly on the ground where the drainage could be impeded. I use pot trolleys but any level bricks or boards will also work. I hope all that will save you lovely Felicite!

Hi jimmy: I researched on Felicite Parmentier: A person in hot Texas, clay soil didn't have much luck - it went downhill and refused to bloom. Diane in CA had a young own-root Felicite Parmentier that went downhill in good potting soil and shady garden.

Niels in cool Denmark, zone 5b, acidic clay has the best luck with Felicite Parmentier. His might be grafted on something else. Tessie in sandy soil, CA, has a big and healthy Felicite Parmentier.

I had a few roses in poor-drainage pots, which I had to drill holes at the sides for our constant spring rain... but NONE of them had yellow canes. Felicite Parmentier with her fabulous scent might be related to Rugosas, known as "beach-rose", since they do well in sand, and likes it dry.

Rugosas are sensitive to salt in fertilizer and manure, and turned yellow like Eglantyne when I gave it fertilizer. Grreat scent Eglantyne turned yellow in my wet clay but does well for someone else with sandy soil in a hot climate.

The plant database Folia wrote this:

"Try to plant in a location that enjoys partial sun and remember to water moderately. ... Félicité Parmentier are Zone 5 and Zone 9. Planting Félicité Parmentier in loamy soil with a ph of between 5.5 and 6.5 is ideal for as it does best in weakly acidic soil."

I would test the pH of that pot to see if it's weakly acidic. I wrote a fast procedure to get the pH of any soil sample in the English Rose Forum. See link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cheapest way to test soil pH using red cabbage

This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Sun, Feb 24, 13 at 13:21

There are roses that figure out they are in a pot, and have a panic attack. Sometimes, repotting them into a larger pot helps, until they figure out they are still in a pot, and have another panic attack. Sometimes, the first thing they do after being repotted is explore the pot size, so repotting is only an extremely temporary solution. I've deal with several gallicas like this, and a rugosa or two. It is about the first thing I think of when people are having trouble with a rose in a pot that suckers about.

So I'd say a big question is how big a pot are you willing to deal with? If the pot is as big as you want, you could try pulling the rose out, removing the roots and potting material 10cm around the circumference, and replacing. Ideally, it should be done spring or fall, but this may be a bit of an emergency.

HTH, I have a cat walking on the keyboard.

If this is the one rose which consistently blows over in the wind, I would take that to mean this pot is too small for this rose. Upsizing to the next larger size (at least) seems a good idea to me. Drainage does sound like your primary issue. Fix that and you may just fix the plant. Yes, your manure pellets CAN help cause the yellowing canes with reduced drainage. In the other pots, where water flows easily through the soil, pushing out the "exhaust gases" and drawing in oxygen, the roses can make use of the fertilizers and grow. In reduced drainage, the roots are stressed, and can actually drown. The "exhaust gases" which are exhaled by the roots, are not being pushed from the soil as efficiently by the flowing water because it isn't flowing sufficiently. As a consequence, insufficient oxygen is drawn into the root zone. Imagine you trying to breathe into a plastic bag with a small hole poked in it to let in a bit of oxygen, but not as much as you need.

Now, add that manure you've applied to the mix. Too much water, being held too long; insufficient oxygen to the roots and carbon dioxide and perhaps other rotting gases being held in the root zone in too high concentrations; then the whole being stressed more by poop being added. Until all that is fixed, the plant is going to continue turning yellow until it reaches the point of no return, when it will simply die. Seil's suggestion of a plant trolly, bricks or other supports to elevate the pot bottom from the surface is good and works very well. Due to your obviously greater wind issue, you may wish to keep the spacers shorter and thinner, like a few pieces of porcelain bath tile. You don't need a lot of space between the pot bottom and the surface, but you do need some to keep the holes from clogging as easily. The taller/thicker the things you put under that pot, the greater the chances of it blowing over in the wind. Kim