Hi UVG - I have very similar problems although perhaps not as steep of a slope. Does your fence contribute to heat up the area due to reflected western light? My fence is open, but it still gets blazing hot over there and maples and bittersweet compete with the whole bed. I have planted and removed numerous things that did not appreciate that area! Things that have worked include: hostas (varieties that don't burn easily), lady's mantle, lamium, geraniums (look at "Elke" which is supposed to very vigorous in all kinds of conditions and is a groundcover type), columbine, polemonium, monkshood, japanese anemone. Also, take a look at High Country Gardens for ideas, they have decent info on cultural needs. I have tons of tulips in that area that do really well because they bloom before the maples leaf out and they like it dry. As for shrubs, you could try witch hazel. I'm new to shrubs at this point, but I'm trying oakleaf hydrangea in that area (although that is huge, and I can't vouch for it liking the area yet!) There are some really pretty small hydrangeas out that are named after European cities: "Paris" "Venice" etc. Maybe someone could also chime in with ideas for vines to climb on your fence. I recently read that clematis really need constant moisture so that's probably not what you would want to go for, although I have a sweet autumn clematis that is in a lot of shade (until 4 pm) that is doing really well. Is it too steep to mulch?

What about Hypericum calycinum? I think it's St. John's Wort? Spreads by rizomes, can take at least part shade.

Unfortunately, I also have the same problem and would love to know if anyone has used it because I keep thinking it will work!

Sounds like a very tough spot to grow in. If you would consider small shrubs, one that pops into mind is Northern Bayberry - Myrica pennsylvanica. It is very rugged, tolerates dry and harsh conditions, prefers full sun but would probably do fine in what you describe. It is native, and the female plants provide berries that the birds love! The berries are used to make bayberry candles. Also, it is semi-evergreen through the winter.

Have you ever checked out the New Hampshire state nursery? They sell small bareroot seedlings for shrubs and trees. You can get 10 small Bayberry seedlings for $10. This is the 2nd year I've ordered from them, LOVE their stock. I planted 7 different type of seedlings last year, with excellent results. Some of their stock is already sold out for 2008.

Here is a link that might be useful: NH State Forest nursery

This might be too simple soultion but why not plant crown vetch. They use it along highways, pink blooms all summer, but don't allow horses to graze on it.

Good God, don't plant crown vetch! It's incredibly invasive and ineradicable--the roots go down 20 feet--and spreads by roots and seeds. It may have its place on steep highway cuts, but nobody should EVER plant it in their yard.

You need plants that can tolerate drier soil. One very useful plant for me is Chasmanthium (wild oat grass), it does well in part-shade and drier soil once established.

You could also tried those super-tough old standbys like coneflower, sedum, yarrow - blooming will be diminished somewhat in the part shade, but it sounds like you have enough sun for them still to do well. Also consider other grasses such as fountain grass, fescue, etc. Grasses in general can take drier soil.

Are the maples yours, or your neighbor's? Do you know what kind they are? Most plants will struggle in competition with maples, especially the aggressive ones like Norway and silver maple. Soaker hoses are essential for plants in this area.

I have various hollies, yew, highbush blueberries, and euonymus 'Manhattan' in a (somewhat) similar area. None of them grows as well as it would elsewhere, but they do help hide a stockade fence that runs just to my side of a massive Norway maple. The minor bulbs do well here, and there is also some woodland strawberry and golden creeping jenny.

the problem is not lack of nutrients... its lack of water...
maples are super competitors.. and extremely vigorous ... their roots are stealing all available water for an area up to twice the size of the canopy above...

every hole you dig will truncate roots.. causing many more replacements to grow....

here is a picture of the neighbors maple when he had some septic work done.. its surprising the grass can even grow above it ...

never water ONLY a plant under maples... or you will encourage the maple to grow into the hole you dug .... BROADCAST ALL WATER UNDER SUCH ..... and NEVER fertilize a new plant.. for the same reason ....

good luck

ken
{{gwi:197426}}