Almost certainly something wrong about conditions at the roots, such as too wet or too dry...

If you planted _Eleagnus pungens_, _Eleagnus pungens fruitlandii_, or almost any other woody, ornamental shrub two months ago, that would have been in the middle of June. That is the wrong time of the year to be planting woody ornamentals, especially in the summer heat of Texas. You gave the plants a death sentence from the start. With some few exceptions, woody ornamentals need to be planted while they are dormant in the late fall or during the winter. During this time, the soil is usually moist and cool. That encourages root development. If planted properly, eleagnus is a tough ornamental, hated by many, but very hard to kill. However, planting eleagnus in June is probably a sure way to do it in from the start.

you shocked the heck out of it by planting too late in the season ... and it APPEARS to be sacrificing... all the leaves it had ... [or they were so badly injured] .... that they are failing..

you are correct in noting that the new growth... means the roots are working... and that you didnt kill all the buds.. and the new growth is acclimated to its situation ...

IF you keep it properly watered.. for the rest of the year.. you should be all set ...

if not.. find out proper planting time for TX ... in my z5.. its march/april ... so you have to be a few weeks [months???] earlier ...

ken

Early fall or maybe mid-fall is when you are going to get strong root development. By winter it is too late, there is little root growth in winter. The big annual flush of root elongation is in fall, right after the shoots tips have matured and sent hormones to the root tips that cause them to extend markedly.

And that's on undisturbed, intact roots. Since most stock sold is rootbound, roots are liable to need to be cut and pulled open at planting time.

Ideal situation is (winter hardy kind of) plant with good root system planted undisturbed in fall, at just the right time for that particular kind to then push roots well into new planting site.

New roots come from cut roots in spring. These do not grow as far as extensions of existing, intact roots in fall because they have to share the plant's energy with new shoot growth.

And plant's energy levels are at their lowest because it has just been through a winter.

You know, when I lived in coastal SC (zone 8b) we (as in professionals) planted containerized trees and shrubs all year round with no problem. If proper planting procedures are followed (that's a big IF), plenty of water post planting, then there was rarely an issue. I'd never consider it a death sentence.

I wouldn't recommend drip irrigation for such a planting, or 10 minute irrigation cycles, though.

I'd guess that the problem is as simple as bboy first said: a problem with the moisture level in the soil....too much or too little.

Thanks all. The shrubs are elaeagnus x ebbingei. It has been 110 degrees (of course one of the hottest summers) for the past 2 weeks. I'm hoping it will cool down soon. I've been hand watering on Sundays in addition to the sprinkler (20 min, twice a week, Tue/Fri). The soil isn't muddy, just moist. How wet is too wet? Is there any tell-tale signs for overwatering or underwatering? Sorry, new to this. Thanks!

rhiz said: we (as in professionals) planted containerized trees and shrubs all year round with no problem.

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agree! ... and you most likely guarateed your installation ...

but the peeps coming here for help.. are not professionals .... eh???

the key.. to high success for the novice.. is TIMING ... because proper timing.. make all the other variables easier to handle... the circumstances are simply more forgiving ....

the water that was put down.. MIGHT have been sufficient .. if the ambient air temps were in the 70's.. with nights at 50 .... and intermittent spring or fall rain ... etc ....

ken