Guess I lost a previous response to technicalities. I'll try to repost.

My point is that you should plan for future needs and lifespan of the ends and not worry about light from the ends. A 14' wide structure allows you little side room once you frame out a double door (either side or top hinged) to allow access with a small tractor.

I used available materials to frame in ends of my tunnels and then quickly converted them to allow for better cool season ventilation (intake louver and exhaust fan on opposite ends) and stove flue (the picture shows solid sheet of screen dor aluminum into which I cut flue hole later). You might also want a solid base in which to mount an electrical panel for lights, fans,etc).

I'd use all treated wood for the framework. 4x4 studs on the sides of the doors and 2x4s for everything else. You can easily frame loosly to insert any windows and then screw 1x1 treated stripping on both inside and outside perimeter of windows to hold them in place and close airgaps.
Here is a picture of my 20x96 end:

{{gwi:289953}}

Thanks so much, bmoser!
I see there are so many ways to finish the ends.
Your farm website was enjoyable to look at. I am also intending to do roll up sides, as you have done in your two tunnels. Can this be easily done by 2 people - or even one, perchance? If you have time to share how you fashioned the sides of your tunnel, i'd like to hear that! I am going to make this hoophouse into a high tunnel, for more side space - by raising the base up a few feet.
Again, i appreciate your time and sharing here.

I guess I need to apologize for not updating my website recently but I am assembling ideas and pictures for a future facelifting.

One person can easily install the rollup sides. I recently installed it on one side of our first greenhouse (15x40') so we don't need to run the exhaust fan all summer long for benchtop plants. The end hardware (in pic see the pipe extending beyond the end of the greenhouse) is usually bolted on first and you should have those pipes conform to the contour of your sidewalls. If your sidewalls are raised and therefore vertical for a few feet then the rollup end pipes should also begin straight, then gradually bend to your arch contour.

Once you determine the height that you are rolling up to you can install a treated 2x4" running board the entire length outside the arches with regular pipe clamps screwed from the inside or bolted from the outside. If you bolt you may need to use a stainless steel bolt for the newer type treated lumber and if you don't use carriage bolts you'll need to allign all clamps so that the heads don't interfere with the wirelock base that you will be mounting to the 2x4". You'll also want to buy or cut the 2x4s so they join midway between arches and secure them by screwing a scrap piece of 2x4 from the inside to allign and prevent twisting of the butting ends. I slightly taper the 2x4 at the endwalls and bend the wirelock base so that it blends into the wirelock of your end arches for a snug fit. You can buy single leg pipe clamps to use at the end arches for securing the 2x4.

The choice between screws and carriage bolts is up to you but bolts can get pretty expensive. I'm using the green treated screws meant for the newer pressure treated lumber. Regular galvanized screws or bolts will only last a few years in contact with the new PT lumber. Wherever you secure anything to the galvanized arches a techscrew (drillscrew) works great. I use them with a cordless drill to make starter holes in the wirelock base prior to using the wood screws to secure it because they work better than many of my drill bits.

Once your wirelock base is installed you are ready to put the plastic on. Lay out the rollup swagged pipe and put a techscrew at each junction so the pipe won't turn inside the other. For installing plastic I think you need a few extra hands, especially if it is breezy (totally avoid windy days). You want the outside temperature 60-80 so you get a snug fit yet don't overstretch it. Some prefer to start by clipping the film to the rollup bar and rolling it up so that the film is held down on both sides by the weight of the pipe. Others allign one side of the film and attach it; then pull the film to the opposite side and pull it snug and straight while attaching it(2 people).

One easier way to start the film over the arches is by using strings and a few softballs (round rocks work too). fold the film double and then form it over the ball and tie it at the base of the ball with one end of your pulling stringline. Do this near both ends and every 20 feet in between. Toss the loose ends of the lines to the other side where one ormore people can pull the film to the opposite side while one person walks inside the framework with a long pole, soft rag or cushion tied to tip, and uses it to push the film over areas where it seems to snag. Be sure to allign one end before you begin to secure the film so that it is square and not puckered. the film is best fastened onto the end arches last and hold off trimming until you are sure you don't need to redo anything.

This is my wordy version but there are numerous other tips that others may offer. I don't know if you noticed from the picture but this tunnel has the channel lock system at the ground baseboard. I have trouble inserting the 4' aluminum locking bars in cold weather. I think that you can install the wire numerous times without tearing the film if you are careful. I'm looking into covering this structure with a double inflated film as I've done in my small unit. You not only get the better heat retention but I've not replaced the double film layer on my small structure since 1994. I plan to install a sheet of bubblewrap between two film layers when I replace it. Thats a whole new topic but you may want to look into it. Also consider using a single sheet of film to reach between your rollup boards and separate narrow sheets for the rollup sides. You can overlap 2 wigglewires into the same base channel. I was thinking of doing that with a more durable Tyvec (house wrap) material since light at the lower sides isn't that critical.

Let me know how your setup works out.

We cannot thank you enough for taking the time to advise us in what you did! I have a folder to keep all of this assistance in and show the fellas that will be helping me (i grow great vegies and other things, but as a girl wasn't privy to learning any construction or mechanic work, as my brother was! - the 50's and 60's girls were groomed to do other things!). I so appreciate your help, and anyone else who wants to chime in.
Good growing,
Glad