darrinky,
'gardenerwantabe' has posted numerous times on modifications for the HFGH. He did a great job! I suggest following his modifications closely so you will end up with a fairly decent GH for just a little more money.
BTW, I screwed in the base at an angle no problem with sheet rock screws. The weakest link in that GH is definitely the base. The doors are another story :-(
Like I said though, Make sure you look at 'gardenerwantabe's
mods (right away), otherwise that thing will be gone with the next wind.
If you don't find what you're looking for, let me know and I'll take pictures.
Tom

Before we started, we searched and read just about every existing post on modifications to the HFGH.

The methods we used were based on prior experience, materials we had and what we thought would work best here. They included
angle irons cut, flanged and attached to the base on the inside to strengthen it
strap to hold the uprights secure at base and roof
metal straps on the outside attached to both the foundation timbers and the metal base with long screws.

THe whole thing is secured to the ground with 6-foot steel fence posts pounded into the ground at the level of the foundation timbers, tied with U-bolts. Our timbers are 2 x 12's.

Here is a link to our photos.

Nell

Here is a link that might be useful: HFGH Modifications at Foxes Earth

foxesearth,
You did a great job with your GH.
How is the floor done? The pics were too small.

Tom

Thanks, Tom. I made one of those pictures of the floor larger and I think I fixed the smaller one where it's clickable now.

My floor is art, not science. Just a soil and mulch floor with some 16" concrete pavers that I had for a pathway, some purchased 12" pavers to level the water drums, bricks to piece out where things didn't fit and river stones to fill in spaces. It took a front-end loader scoop of topsoil because there was a slope, and about a half scoop of mulch for the time being.

A permanent floor would have been premature; I've already had to dig out where we decided to attach braces for one bench to the foundation timbers. Needed to make room for a big drill to fit in there. Before that, I had to rearrange the 16" pavers when we decided where the water drums were to sit.

Nell

>Man, that base is one flimsy piece of ####. I hope it stiffens up once everything starts going together.

Well, it's too late for you, but for others reading this thread I believe my method to be far less "fiddly" than others. Rock-solid, using 4x4 timbers--see link.

Here is a link that might be useful: Our 10x12 HFGH

In the interest of helping Darrin get his base strengthened, I'm linking to a post that has lots of information on that subject.

Reinforcements to the base can be heavy strap metal and cut and flanged angle iron (which we used, 8 each) or flattened conduit (others used) as long as they work. The steel anchor posts being 4 feet or six feet into the ground and at the corners or on the sides are of little difference. Do what works, use what you have.

Gardenerwantabe made this excellent point:
"All the side wall studs attach to the base with part #47 a J hook and it hooks under a flange on a lip of the base. The base it very thin sheet metal but when you bend a lip on it then anchor at the end of the lip a very small amount of pressure will cause the lip to flex. The only thing that keeps the top of the wall studs from moving is they bolt to the top rail and the top rail is bolted to the corner posts. The corner post is to hold the whole thing together but the only thing that holds the corner post is the same flimsy J hook under the lip like the wall studs. I reinforced the corner posts made them very strong this gives the rest of the structure something to anchor too.
When the wind pushes on a wall the inward push will try to release the J hook the only thing that keeps it from going inward is the top rail bolted to the corner post and the top rails at the end will push against the opposite side."

We used a different approach by anchoring each upright at top and bottom with extra bolts and perfed metal straps. There are also straps holding the rafters in the same manner. Little cost, a couple rolls strap and a box of extra bolts, and nuts. Again, do what works for you.

I would suggest to go ahead and order extra spring clips from Harbor Freight so they'll get shipped soon.

Nell

Here is a link that might be useful: More Input

I'm still building my hfgh. I attached the base to 4x4's with 1/4" x 2.5" galvanized lag bolts. Spaced about 2' apart. I predrilled the bottom lip of the base.

I'd like to add, as mentioned here somewhere, get the supports up for the corner posts right away. Otherwise, they'll just fold over in a breeze (crap).

Here is a link that might be useful: Building my HFGH 10x12

Well, i decided today to try something different. I put a piece of 5/8x6" decking on the outside of the frame overlapping the metal frame and the wooden base and screwed it together all around the outside of the perimeter. Very sturdy and attractive! I got all the walls up and will start on the roof sunday. Had some trouble with the screws that I was supposed to put in the wall studs but finally figured it out. The door track whooped me good.......i had it together wrong!! It was a rough day but the hard part i think is over. how bad is the roof?????