Habitable space is not even an occupancy classification. HABITABLE SPACE. A space in a building for living, sleeping, eating or cooking. Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, halls, storage or utility spaces and similar areas are not considered habitable spaces. Just because a bathroom isn't considered a habitable space, doesn't mean it has to be a pump house or manufacturing facility. International Building Code SECTION 302 CLASSIFICATION 302.1 General. Structures or portions of structures shall be classified with respect to occupancy in one or more of the groups listed in this section. 1. Assembly 2. Business 3. Educational 4. Factory and Industrial 5. High Hazard 6. Institutional 7. Mercantile 8. Residential 9. Storage 10. Utility and Miscellaneous 310.1 Residential Group R. Residential Group R includes, among others, the use of a building or structure, or a portion thereof, for sleeping purposes when not classified as an Institutional Group I or when NOT regulated by the International Residential Code. 508.2 Accessory occupancies. Accessory occupancies are those occupancies that are ancillary to the main occupancy of the building or portion thereof. 508.2.4 Separation of occupancies. No separation is required between accessory occupancies and the main occupancy. 509.1 General Incidental uses located within single occupancy or mixed occupancy buildings shall comply with the provisions of this section. Incidental uses are ancillary functions associated with a given occupancy that generally pose a greater level of risk to that occupancy and are limited to those uses listed in Table 509. Exception: Incidental uses within and serving a dwelling unit are not required to comply with this section. In the IRC, the classifications are called; 1) one family dwelling 2) two family dwelling or townhouse 3) accessory structure A garage is a subset of an accessory structure with special provisions. A habitable space is just a descriptive term used in codes to refer to certain rooms as a group instead of listing every single specific room for every single code it applies to every time it comes up. It carries certain connotations with it such as; ATTIC, HABITABLE. A finished or unfinished area, not considered a story, complying with all of the following requirements: 1. The occupiable floor area is at least 70 square feet (17 m2) in accordance with Section R304, 2. The occupiable floor area has a ceiling height in accordance with Section R305, and 3. The occupiable space is enclosed by the roof assembly above, knee walls (if applicable) on the sides and the floor-ceiling assembly below. Now if an attic was considered a habitable BEDROOM, it would also require an egress window. A basement with habitable space must have an egress window, but just any habitable space does not necessarily have to have a window. And a basement does not necessarily have to have habitable space.(R305.1.1) A habitable space used as a theater room would be less than functional with a window. There are areas within residential structures that have special provisions. Those are called hazardous locations. Or, they can be called kitchens, bathrooms, bedrooms, balconies, stairs, etc. There is no room 'occupancy classification' called "habitable room" An enclosed patio, whether attached or detached from the dwelling unit is structure and a room that is permitted by the IRC. It IS an accessory structure, AND it cannot be considered a "habitable room". But, it can have furniture and tv entertainment. AH101.2 Permitted uses. Patio covers shall be permitted to be detached from or attached to dwelling units. Patio covers shall be used only for recreational, outdoor living purposes, and not as carports, garages, storage rooms or habitable rooms. Here is a quote out of the IBC HANDBOOK; "HABITABLE SPACE. An area within a building, typically a residential occupancy, used for living, sleeping, eating or cooking purposes would be considered habitable space. Those areas not considered to meet this definition include bathrooms, closets, hallways, laundry rooms, storage rooms and utility spaces. Obviously, habitable spaces as defined in this section are those areas usually occupied, and as such are more highly regulated than their accessory use areas.Although typical, it is not necessary that a room or area be finished in order to be considered habitable space. It is not uncommon for a dwelling unit to have a large basement that is not completely finished-out. Nevertheless, the basement may be used as living space, particularly for children who use it as a playroom." Clearly, the term 'habitable space' does not demand much in the way of fire protection or other specific codes if the room can be unfinished. But, an enclosed patio is fully regulated by the IRC just like any other structure based on its use.

This one: is 36" long (so a little small), and on sale for one more day, for $115. And there is also an armless accent chair available. This one: is 50" long, $180 Number three, 35" square, on sale one more day for $210: also in very light and medium grays. Number four, 47" long and $246: The color is called dark teal, but looks close to at least one of the bands in the C&B rug. My computer sees a little aqua-teal in that rug, and very little in this ottoman! Overstock has over 1000 storage ottomans, at average 1/3 the price of C&B! I looked at 300, then filtered for "blue" and found this one, 39.5" long and $129: Additionally, almost all products on Overstock have Q&A and reviews. :

This will save you cleanup and heartache. Purchase 2 canvas drop cloths 10x12 so you can cover the floor where you are removing paper. Canvas stays flat, (trip hazards get wet and messy as well as dangerous) don't slip like plastic or thin paper throwaways, and you can launder it if you wish. Use later when painting. Fold over about 2' along edge of wall to keep it nice and flat and to catch water from steaming and washing. You may want an over layer of old towels if it gets really drippy - saves LOTS of cleanup I guarantee. Smaller tarps are easier to move about or drape over furnishings when necessary to protect from other future small jobs where you don't empty the room before working - drilling to run wires, install drapes, etc. They will last a lifetime so are a good investment. I am still using my dad's from the 1940's, and they aren't that soiled although used for papering, painting, DE-construction, etc. Paint does NOT pass through the canvas. To fold tarp for storage, bring edges of short sides toward each other so they meet along the center of the canvas. Bring the resulting parallel folds on each edge to the center where they too will meet, then fold one layer over the other and you have a long, narrow, neatly flat stack of folded canvas. Repeat the process the other direction, folding both ends so they meet at the center and so on, till you have a neat folded square about 2' square. When you want to use the canvas again, lay it in the center of the room and unfold. This works especially well with big tarps (40' wide) because you know where the edges will land before unfolding (as in covering a roof under construction). My dad learned this procedure in the Army Air Corps during WW2. Write your name and drop cloth dimensions near one corner using permanent marker. Patch tears on canvas and on heavy outdoor tarps before storing so they are quickly ready when needed in future WET emergencies. Paint or rain will ALWAYS land in the one spot where there is a hole. Good luck. It could be worse. We once helped friends strip paper from an entire house in the 70's - most of it FOIL which steam and chemicals did not penetrate very well. It was similar to stripping the foil off gum wrappers! We became deliriously happy when we peeled off a strip 4x12"! Invite friends and get REALLY acquainted. You've got lots of good advice from others about stripping, plastering etc, so follow it. Oh, buy top quality brushes. They too will last a lifetime if you care for them properly. I have my dad's brushes from before the 70's and they look like new. They will save you more time than you can imagine. Go on line and read how to use fabric softener to remove paint from brushes - the best tip ever. I've used it for years. 2 quotes I have learned are ALWAYS accurate: Those who don't do the job correctly the first time always find time to do it over. (ouch!) Buy the best. You only cry once.

Lovely room, and you've made a good start, but it needs some softening and warming up, as it's a bit formal and cold looking right now. Since most dining rooms do not contain upholstered pieces, they usually want some sort of fabric to counteract the hardness of the wood furniture. I'd look to add curtain panels and an area rug with color and pattern to warm it up. Lowering the chandeliers to 30" above the table top would make it a more inviting and intimate room. I don't think you need to worry about blocking the view. Lastly, I would move 2 or 4 chairs to another area in the room or another room when you aren't entertaining lots of guests. Having that many chairs lined up looks kind of "corporate boardroom" instead of "inviting dining room."