I have been happy with Oregon chain. As soon as the chips turn to sawdust, the spare goes on and the dull chain is touched up later. Don't let it get really dull and try to force it. Stihl chain seems to be a little harder and holds it's edge but takes longer to file and is more expensive.

Maybe it just me but when I run the saw out of gas or chain oil I think it time to sharpen the chain. IMO if I keep it out of the dirt (includes inside base of stumps) I only have to hit it three or four strokes per teeth. I also check chain tension and at the end of the day Clean the saw up. this includes removing the bar, cleaning the clutch area and all the oil feeder holes, and the bar grooves. This way when I need it I know it will be ready and not dull and dirty from the last use. But, that's me!

I probably go through 3 chains per cord. I keep 7 chains for each saw. That way I can take them all in to be sharpened at once. When I see sawdust and smoke, it's time for a new chain.
A sharp chain has that feel of success.
Two saws.. Big poulan 3800 countervibe and a little wood shark, both with oregon bars and chains.
Good luck

As others have stated, a full cord without sharpening is too long. Best practice is a touch up after each tank or if you hit something you should not. Prevention truly is the best medicine for chains.

Biglumber, with all those chains you are running, you could save yourself a ton of money if you learn to sharpen yourself. I am assuming by saying "...I can take them all in to be sharpened at once" you mean to someone you pay to sharpen. Sharpening is not too difficult. You pick it up with practice.

After reading these replies, I feel a lot better about the Oregon chains. In some older threads, I had read that there were some people claiming to cut a cord or more without sharpening.

Now, I question that and it looks like most people get about the same amount of cutting per sharpening. I sharpen my own and it is not very hard to do so it's not a big deal but I was concerned about my not getting a cord or more per sharpening.

Now, I will just stay with Oregons and keep sharpening when needed.

Thanks for the replies

I Can't stress Cleaning the bar grooves, oil feeder holes, sprocket at the end of the bar, and under the clutch cover before storage. chips, sawdust, oil, and dirt will get impacted. Low end models require more routine maintenance IMO if you want it to preform well, besides you bars and chains will last longer even till they have no teeth left. Keeping the chain sharp is only half of it IMO. But, I'm an oil changing and chainsaw routine maintenance nerd.

dmullen,
Happy to hear we may have helped.

masiman, you are correct, I do have someone sharpen my chains.
I enjoy chatting with the guy while he does it. Runs about 75 bucks for all of them which is a good price. I have looked at sharpeners and have used them before, I just cant see spending the money to get the right sharpener. Besides, it gives me the chance to get back to the mower shop where I worked 18 years ago.
rcmoser, that is good info on the bar maintenance. I keep my chains in a bucket of used oil from my powerstroke.
Sometimes the bars go in also if they are gummy.

Peace

biglumber,

:), you get to see a buddy, I get it.

I can understand about the sharpeners/grinders. I have a low middle grinder from Northern Tool (~$90). It is not the best but it is decent. I could neither justify $300+ for an Oregon or MAXX nor $700+ for a Silvey. I only need the grinder for 2-3 chains/month on average (i.e. it took about 6 months for the grinder to pay for itself).

I would encourage not just you but anyone that is running a chainsaw somewhat consistently to learn how to sharpen with a file though. It can save you alot of time and money because most of your sharpening should just be touch ups. You should only only need a grinder when you run the chain into rock, ground or other hard object, also to bring the chain back to even cutters after a few hand sharpenings.

I'm glad you have a place to hang out and maybe have a drink while you get your chains sharpened.

I just bought the Oregon 95VP/Microlite bar chain combo for my 40cc Husky 340, it is an entirely different saw now.

On the subject of chainsaw chains.
How do you determine when exactly to discard the chain?
In other words, how far can the cutters be ground before the chain is no longer usable?

On Stihl and Oregon chain there is a witness mark on the cutter and the raker. The witness mark helps you:

1. Sharpen the chain at its optimum angle

2. Sharpen the chain accurately throughout its useful life

3. Keep the lengths of cutter top-plates equal

4. Know when the chain has reached the end of its life

I sharpen mine down till the teeth break off. Once that happens it's done IMO that's atleast half way through the length of the teeth and sometimes more depending on how hard the wood and whats inbedded in it.

Hand filing IMO the best way cause you don't take off as much metal as the rotary files in hand held powered unit. I clean my chains with carb. cleaner and keep the file clean also by spraying it with carb. cleaner to keep the grooves clean.

You just have to do it to gain experience there are manual bracket/roller device kits to get you started on the right angle. Once you learn the angle and feel it don't take long at all.

I cut stumps out with some of mine and that kills a chain quickly unless you know how to bring it back to life.

You might want to try Bailey's Woodman Pro chains. I believe they are Carlton which is a notch better then Oregon but not as good as $tihl. Price is usually pretty good too.

Touching up a chain is a waist of time, especially when you have to do it every tank fill up of the chain saw. How do you get any wood cut in a day, if all you do is file the chain, that much?
Sorry. I used to use a filing guide by Oregon, and file my cutters till a wired edge (just enough to catch on your thumb nail as you dragged it along the length of the cutter) started to form across the cutter. Then you cutters are good and sharp.
I can pretty much cut fire wood all day before I have to replace it with a sharp one. Trick is to keep the nose out of the dirt.
Now I use bench chain grinder, from Tecomec (same place that builds them for Oregon out of Italy, but a lot cheaper then Oregon). I can sharpen chains a lot more faster than I cam or could with a file, or filing guide.
Every tooth is the same as the previous, Same length of cutter, and degree of the cutter.
I bought it 7 years ago, and it paid for it self in less than 6 months. I cut an average of 20 and one half, full cords a year for myself, along with approx 30 to 40 full cords to sell per year. I also sharpen several chains for others, aswell.
Worst thing that I found, is give the chain two or three stokes, here and there is harder on a chain, than giving it 6 or 7 strokes to get that wired edge to form, and you will be able to get a lot more cutting done, before the chain needs sharpening again.
I have tried several things, with sharpening a chain, to see what works the best, and getting that wired edge, is the best way to get it done right.
This is just my opinion though. Bruce.

another hand filer here. I started out with a guide, but gave that up after a while. I just give each tooth 3-4 swipes with a file. Every 3rd sharpening, I knock down the rakers with a mill file. I only cut a tank's worth of wood at a time.

Sthil saw chains are the best they are maid different and cost more but should last longer and keep it out da dirt sharpen it right it should last a while

Lear to sharpen your own chain with a file shops use grinder sharpeners the take more. Off the tooth thain nesicary keep a good time around get a new file every 3-6 sharp innings some pros sharper more thain 6 times a day so once you can sharper right it takes no much time

jerseybob asked about service life. There is usually a witness mark near the heel of the cutter, when the cutting edge reaches it time to discard. If a chain sees dirt frequently watch that the rivets don't get too sloppy, replace it before it lets go.. A broken chain is nobody's friend

I started in 1978 with chains cut and joined to sized and sharpened when needed at our local Farm & Ranch Store (w/o paying attention to chain stock’s brand). What did get my attention was approx after 3 sharpenings the chain was gone. Due to cutting a lot of Dozer Pushed wood with grit in it my chains and bars might last through a cord of wood

Later, working standing green wood with laser tip bars vs sprockets with bearings and making and sharpening my own chains they lasted longer. Sharpening was easer and faster with the dremel type sharpener from Sears (1984) and Home Depot today. Just a touch-up as with a file but faster allowed the chain to last longer. Cleaning and oiling the bar regular was a must if you got into grit.

A big + was learning to make my own chains from flea market chain stock and good used and new chains. A dealer going out of business basically gave me a lifetime of links and I had purchased the kit to install the links to shorten a stretched or connect a new chain.

Talking wood or firewood in this North, TX HEAT makes me tired. With my wood racked LOL but will drag a close log home.