Not sure about the Bosch - but the company as a whole tends to make quality products. For $500-ish, DeWalt makes a good portable table saw and if you have the space, that money buys you a nice stationary Ridgid saw.

I see a lot of good ones in our local newspaper regularly for around $100.

There have been Craftsman, Delta, and others. Someday I am going to get one too so that my wood cuts will be a lot smoother.

Are you on your own or do you have people around to help you?

I find it really difficult to give you advice because your requirements are at odds with one another.

Saw safety comes from having absolute control over the item being sawn. That control comes from having a heavy, stable table saw that does not move. It also comes from having a saw with extension tables on it that will allow you to place your fence more than two feet away from the saw blade.

Saw safety comes from having a saw blade that spins absolutely true at a perfect 90 degree angle to the table along with a strong, perfectly aligned fence that holds its settings. Cutting sheets of plywood ACCURATELY or any other sheet goods accurately requires all those things because trying to control a sheet of anything while feeding it through a table saw isn't all that easy.

Pro set-ups always have outfeed tables and often have infeed support as well so that the operator can focus solely on guiding the sheet instead of struggling with the weight.

Normally, I would recommend that you look around for a mildly used contractor's saw with double extension tables and a good fence such as Beiesmeyer. However, you say you have space issues so that fact negates that advice. The second option would be for you to buy a really good guidance system for your electric hand-saw. That way, you would be able to cut sheet goods accurately and safely.

The Bosch saw you refer to would be adequate to handle your other needs.

My two cents.

The Bosch saw seems to be the cream of the portable saws, with the Rigid saw a close second, but $150.00 less, according to Fine Woodworking. They put the Ryobi as best value at $200.00, in a surprising vote of confidence. I'm trying to decide if I need a table saw, myself. Lots of people are using the EZcut system, which I have not used, personally. They say that cutting panels on the table saw is among the most awkward procedures, and that using a guide, like the EZcut, is much easier, as castoff was saying. If I'm doing my ripping with a hand held circular saw and cross cutting on a miter saw, why do I need a table saw?
Norm

I bought a table saw from Sears, a Craftsman. It is very basic and works for me. If you watch for a sale you can get one at a very attractive price.

Thanks for the input. My space restrictions are just in terms of storage. I have an entire garage car space available for operation. It would have to be put away after each use which makes portable attractive. Also, I do live alone and need something that I would be able to move around a bit if needed. I definitely would not have the benefit of having a second set of hands guiding the boards through, but then again, I don't plan on ripping anything longer than 48".

I do go back and forth about whether I should just stick with my circular saw/miter saw combo. I guess I have myself convinced that I can make nicer, straighter cuts with a table saw that with my portable toys. If that's wrong, I'm more than happy to save some money and space. Otherwise, baby wants a new toy.

My Sears Craftsman table saw, with legs, is now 22 years old and running like a top. I have limited space so I put mine on casters.

I can store it in my small workshop, or roll it out into the garage or driveway if I need to.

It works very well for 48" ripping.

As tommyw said - watch for sales at Sears.

All my power tools, except for my biscut joiner, are Craftsman. Never had a problem with any of them.

Enjoy the journey.

eal51 in western CT

Without question, a properly set-up contractor's saw with a good rip guide is an invaluable tool when it comes to making accurate cuts and dado's. However, if you buy a really good clamp-on guide system and put the right blades into your electric handsaw, you can get just as good results.

As for dado cuts, my advice would be for you to buy either a decent 1/2" plunge router if you intend to do internal dado's or a decent 1/2" D-handle router if you just need edge-to-edge dado's. The guide system should allow you to use either type plus your saw.

The other thing you should have is at least one pair of steel sawhorses that are height adjustable and fold up for storage. That way you can lay sheet goods flat on the horses at a comfortable height and then make your cuts and dado's in a safe manner. All items a lightweight and easily stored.

Grizzly seems to make some good, reasonably priced contractors saws. I'd ask on the Fine Woodworking forum: I think it's www.taunton.com. Those guys know a lot about tablesaws, not that the posters on this forum don't. Norm

I seldom use my table saw for cutting plywood. Most of the time I am working alone, and it's hard to cut anything big, straight by yourself. If I had the room to make my table saw table bigger I would use it a lot more.

What i do is to place two sawhorses, 7 feet apart and lay out 4 2x4's on the sawhorses so 2 are at the edge of the sawhorse and the other are spaced out equally in between the outside ones. I screw the 2x4's to the saw horse. This makes a nice work area that can be disassembled in about two minutes and takes little storage space.

Place your plywood on the 2x4's with the cut line between any of the 2x4's and use a good quality straight edge and a good circular saw. When you cut, be sure to push down on the straigh edge as you go along so the saw's table won't try to go under it. When you make your cut, the wood will be resting on a solid surface and the pieces won't try to fall off and the wood won't bend and be in a bind. If will just set there, but now it is in 2 pieces.

As for dado's, I have a couple of sets of dado blades, that I seldon use. Most of the time if I cut a dado, it is with a Router and a homemade jig. I like this for several reasons. Manily because it is easier to get the right size with a router bit than with dado blades. Since plywood is not nonimal sizes it is hard to make a tight fit with standard dado blades. Even with my adjustable dado it is a lot of trial and error. Where as you can buy plywood router bits that make a tight fit evertime.

Don't get me wrong, I love my table saw and use it quiet a bit. I just don't usually try to cut something as big a sheet of plywood or usually not even a half sheet. Try using the sawhorse and 2x4's with a good straight edge. You will like the results.

I have a table saw, radial arm saw and miter saw, I use a hand power saw to rip full sheets as described above.
I work alone mostly and this is the safest way I know of.
The cut is as accurate as your ablity to make it.
Cut it with the pretty side down and the blade adjusted to be just through the wood, to prevent splintering. Check your blade angle with a square.

But new toys are cool too...

Yes indeed they are.

For a portable tablesaw with an excellent fence look at the Dewalts. If you dont need to move it the Delta Contractor saws with a good fence will work great. The fence is the key to any saws accuracy. CHeaper fences will not give accurate cuts and could be dangerous as they can kick the wood back at you if it binds. Good fences stay true and are safer.

The Bosch portable saw is pretty sweet but a bit out of my price range. I am looking at the top-end Skilsaw table saw with stand and cast-iron table top. Should be adequate for my occasional ripping and panel-cutting needs. I may make a side table and outfeed table to help with large panels.

Try http://www.woodnet.net/forums/ or better known as Woodnet.

One of the better forums on the internet and the best by far that I know of for Woodworking.

Saws you may want to consider are the Grizzly, Jet, Bridgewood among others.

I have a bridgewood that I swear by. It is this model: http://www.wilkemachinery.com/default.tpl?action=full&cart=11734990742043308&id=24&--woSECTIONSdatarq=24&--SECTIONSword=ww&--eqskudatarq=2911

It has a really nice fence on it. The fence is the most important part of the saw. I like the Beisemeyer style fences the best. I'd get the largest you could get. A good full featured cabinet saw is the safest you'll ever operate. The heavy weight plus power will make them almost bulletproof. A cheap flimsy saw will be a kickback machine..

I just picked up a Skilsaw 3400 10" table saw with stand. Its nothing special, its kinda loud and doesent cut super accurete but still alot better than ripping 1x's with a sidewinder. I set up the fence and alignment in accordance to the manual and havent had a kickback or single other close call. With the rubber feet it isnt too tippy unless I really push on it. I added about 100 lbs of weight to the bottom of the saw stand in the form of broken concrete in a milk crate, makes the saw much more stable.

Watch the ads for a Delta contractor saw (belt drive, not direct), the older the better. The Model 10 was the Cadillac. They show up pretty often. You can probably get an older one for $250 or so, polish up the table with the ROS and add a good fence if it doesn't have one.

I live in the land of Bosch. The people that make a living with the tools seem to use Dewalt, Skil, and Hilti. My neighbor is a pretty successful cabinet maker/workspacer designer and builder. His "System" is a 10" Skilsaw with 4 C clamps and 2 aluminum straight edges. I'd love to have a radial arm saw, but can't find any over here.

Screw the circular saw to a 4x8 sheet of plywood and flip plywood over. Instant table saw.

I have not seen a radial arm saw for many years, the compound mitre seems to have taken over. My dad would have enjoyed one.

I've got a little rinkydink work stand that's made of steel. Has a place just about any kind of tool, incluging a skilsaw upside down underneath. Call it my redneck shopsmith. Too little to remember any details, but there was a saw floating around when I was a kid that was a frame with a half sheet of plywood on it with a sawblade setup that was belt driven. It was used with an old car that had the hood removed and the contraption clamped to the fenders and a belt around the fanbelt pulley. After awhile, the car (s) became more or less community property and was shifted from farm to farm used to cut sawmill slabs for firewood.

>>>>>Too little to remember any details, but there was a saw floating around when I was a kid that was a frame with a half sheet of plywood on it with a sawblade setup that was belt driven. It was used with an old car that had the hood removed and the contraption clamped to the fenders and a belt around the fanbelt pulley. After awhile, the car (s) became more or less community property and was shifted from farm to farm used to cut sawmill slabs for firewood.yakimadn: That's a great story! I love it! There are a lot of yards around me with junk cars: I bet I could get one to make a Chevey or Ford table saw!
Thanks for the story.

I found a used Bosch 4000-09 portable table saw the other day. It seems to work like new. Very smooth cuts with the 80 tooth blade that happened to come with it.
I haven't gotten around to adjusting things, in fact hadn't read the manual until today downloaded from the Internet.
I've already used it to finish off the porch on the house we're remodeling.
Norm

Last Christmas, my father bought my a 10 inch craftsman 15amp portable table saw. The legs come off and store on the unit. The fence goes 30 inches to the right so you can cut plywood. The saw is portable so its made of aluminum/plastic. When cutting plywood, you definitely need two people or the saw could tip over. The cut isn't too bad. Every time I set the fence, I measure the front and back and its usually dead on. For general construction, the saw is fine and it you watch for sales its pretty cheap and doesn't take up a lot of space.

"It was used with an old car that had the hood removed and the contraption clamped to the fenders and a belt around the fanbelt pulley."
Sweet Jesus, CSST would have a field day with that.
Was it common practice to call an ambulance before or after you start working?
(I just had CSST come to my shop and tie all the electrical tablesaw plugs to the blade adjustment knob with big red tie raps untill the guards were replaced.)

My work shop shares my garage with two vehicles and a boat. I have a 1968 sears table saw 113 2990301. It has a 10" blade, a dado blade, and a cast iron table. It also has the side wings that was offered by sears when it was purchased. Depending on the position of the side wings I can cut a 48" plywood. I use it for general around the house cutting projects, and make a lot of picture frams with mitered corners and rabbits for the picture. I would not trade it for some of the cheap stuff they are selling to day.

It is on a base with wheels, and is complemented by my work bench which is also on wheels and is the same height as the saw. I can move it so it works as set up table for the saw, or reposition it for an out feed table. I have ripped 10' board by my self with the set up.

My primary use is making mitered corners on picture frames. I have used it to make some minor furniture, and trim projects in the house.

Your concerns seems to be price therefore I would look for one of these saws. They can be found on Ebay for a couple of hundred. You may want to spend another couple of hundred for a good blade, dado bladed, miter gauge, etc. I have a solid 45 miter guage that I use for miter corners for the picture frame.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/sears-table-saw

Since this basic table saw was sold by Sears for many years parts are available both from places like Ebay and Sears parts store. My dad's table saw nearly identical to my 1969 saw was from the early 1950's

PS: when I wrote the above I did not realize that the original post was 10 years old. I don't know why it appeared as a post with new replies.

• Be cause a schill named Olivia , is randomly reopening decade old threads in some cases to endorse various products for her gain Bro !

I hope all of you have had some Experienced Training on a Table Saw and Machinery in general vs just using it from guessing the right and wrong methods of use. I volunteered for 6 years Constructing Homes. There were very few Official Demonstration” of any equipment and all of us were allowed to use what we felt we could use. Naturally we had some accidents that could have been prevented or less with some training, demonstrations, guidance from experienced Group Leaders. We had our share of accidents and most were preventable. Such as, if you are trying
to use the Table Saw and Running from it at the same time, you are not in control. You could be causing more danger to yourself and others if you have no training by an Experienced User on Major Equipment.

Accidents are going to happen! With no training or demonstrations the rate goes up. Be careful my friends and watch that experienced user and ask questions before you Jump On Major Equipment. Please do not Roast me for sharing. I have had my share of accidents and seen more related to using Major Equipment.

Good points Loger , the only one that will get Roasted is Oliva if she continues to abuse the Forum and I mean Burnt ! lol.